Hi,
first post on the forum. Some years ago I started changing my own inner tubes and was rather proud of that, but now I'm trying to get into fixing other stuff as well. I'm a bit stumped with the rear gear issues on 2 bicycles.
One thing at a time though. This bicycle that is ride-able, but doesn't shift into the 1st rear gear, and arguably is not properly tuned for the others. I had a close look at the derailleur position and it seems to be consistently too outwards in each position (I guess that is to be expected given the issue at hand).
If going from the inward gears to the outermost (gearing up), position 1 gives the 2nd gear (and makes noise), whereas position 2 gives the 2nd gear without noise, and then each increment shifts into the respective gear up to the 7th.
Going from the outward gears to the innermost (gearing down), they refuse to shift unless I go on position lower: Only when in position 5 will it shift from 7th to 6th gear, and so on until one uses position 1 to make it reach the 2nd gear.
Here are some pictures taken with the camera's base supported on the rear tire, in sequence gearing up:
1st position
[attachment=4438]
2nd position
[attachment=4439]
3rd position
[attachment=4440]
and so on until the 7th position...
[attachment=4441]
Then gearing down:
6th position (still 7th gear)
[attachment=4442]
5th position (goes to 6th gear)
[attachment=4443]
and so on until it reaches the inside with the 2nd position (still 3rd gear)
[attachment=4444]
and 1st position
[attachment=4445]
Never reaches the 1st gear.
I was trying to read on another site how to adjust derailleurs but I got a bit confused as it was written that I should not touch the limit screws other than for a temporary fix "on the road". What is recommended then?
Thanks,
Ivo
Starting from scratch is best. I will give the steps and you can decide which you are capable of:
1. Clean, at least the pullys
2. True rear wheel
3. check and align Derailluer Hanger (needs a DAG tool)
4. Disconnect cable (if not already)
5. Set H Limit screw so the pully is just off center a pinch towards the outside of the top 7th gear
6. set L limit screw so pully is centered directly under 1st gear (pushing the derailluer by hand and looking from the rear)
7. make sure shifter is set for 7th gear and make sure all housing and cables are good and seated properly in the caps and frame bosses
8. screw barrel adjuster all the way in and back out 1 1/2 turn
9. attach cable, be careful not to move the derailluer before attaching
10. shift one gear. Did it go? if not turn barrel adjuster till it does. If taking back to highest gear and there is alot of cable slack. reattach and start over.
11. once you got it to shift from the highest to the next, turn barrel adjuster until you hear it clanging for the next gear, then back off the barrel adjuster 1/4 turn at a time till the clanging sound stops.
12. Run thru the gears up and down and check, go for a test ride
13. get back to us and let us know
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
PK's advice is sound, and the proper way to do the complete job.
For a quickie verification you could do steps 4, 7 thru 13. But if you want to do a really good job, do 1 thru 13 as he lists above.
Nigel
"as the chain rubs a little bit in the housing" By housing do you mean the inside of the derailleur cage? If so, turn the "H" limit screw out 1/4 turn @ a time and see if that helps, get back and we can go from there. housing is the outer sleeve your cables run thru.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
You are right, confusing naming from my part. I'll be more careful with the terms.
Yes, the chain rubs a little bit on the inside of the front derailleur cage.
I'll try the H limit screw on the front derailleur then.
Hi again, the purple bike works well. Many thanks.
I started working on another one which had a very rusty chain (and still has, after 2 sessions of WD-40, rubbing, and re-oiling - I think it will need 2 or 3 more sessions). It had and has issues with the rear gears: started out with an unreachable inside rear gear, and all the gears except the smallest rear one "jumped" when pedaling uphill, which made it a bit useless. By "jumping" here I mean it spontaneously made a loud noise and temporarily loses traction. I'm sorry I don't know how to describe it better as I was riding it when it does it and haven't managed to keep my eyes on the gears to spot what happened.
I figured I could just follow the procedure above, same thing I did for the purple and learned quite a bit more about how it works - particularly the barrel adjuster (I spent quite a few minutes turning it without anything happened, until I realized I had pulled it out of its "housing" and therefore I wasn't doing anything).
From my experience so far, the gears stopped jumping at least but...
1. The gears.
1a). It has more shifter positions (8) than actual cogs (7), but I didn't get it to assign a specific cog to each position and leaving e.g. the 8th redundant with the 7th by relying on the H limit, which I think would be best (right?). Right now it seems to get stuck on the same gear in the middle, like from 4 to 3, unless I shift two positions. Should I leave it like that?
1b) The other issue (possibly related) that makes me more worried is that any gear that isn't the smallest (the one that never jumped, before) is still making some noise when pedaling. This seems to only happen when I'm riding it, as I didn't notice while I had it hoisted and was fixing it.
I took some pictures to put here, although this time not yet on each shifter and gear position.
I spotted that one link of the chain looked different, and wonder if it is relevant.
2. In addition to the gear issue, the direction is misaligned to the left, and I think this is a question of getting a large spanner/wrench to the hexagonal bolt, loosening it a bit up to rotate it back straight, and fastening again. Correct?
3. Also, that rear tyre looks like it has seen better days, right?
Pics...
Rusty chain
[attachment=4580]
Rear tyre not looking so good
[attachment=4581]
The different link
[attachment=4582]
The misaligned steering and bolt
[attachment=4583]
[attachment=4584]
replace the chain and freewheel/cassette; you may also have to replace the chainrings.
Nigel
Not only is the derailer rusty the teeth are worn out.
I do not see a side shoot of cassette or chain rings, but judging from available photos of chain the poor shifting is the least of your issues. Go through the whole bike, service wheel, BB, and headset bearings, CLEAN........and lube .
Its amazing how many riders complain about poor running bikes that obviously did not receive maintenance.
Never Give Up!!!
Did you buy it or are you servicing for a friend?
Is it an 8 speed wheel with a cassette spacer or a 7 speed wheel?
If it's yours then I think you should remove the rear wheel, take a pic so we can see if it's a cassette or freewheel, then remove the rear gears & replace ($20ish) purchase a new chain (under $20). Clean up the front chain rings & let's see if they're still good, they just might be.
If it has a freewheel, it's a 7 speed hub, if it's a cassette, & you find no spacer when you remove the gear cluster if it's a 7 speed hub. If it's an 8 you'll find a spacer.
Then we need to figure if it's cheaper/easier to get new idler wheels or replace the rear derailer.
I'm not a dynamo light fan, but if you like it, that's good.
Hi again,
The bike has hub dynamo in fact.
Anyway, I removed the rear wheel and used the opportunity to clean a bit more. Here are the pictures showing in detail the rear gears.
[attachment=4624]
[attachment=4625]
The gears' teeth don't seem too worn to me, but I am not an expert, so I'm unsure if GeorgeET's remark was about some other part being worn, or if his expert view could spot wear better than I can.
I didn't pop the wheel back in yet, but I will probably put it back in temporarily tomorrow before getting new parts to replace perhaps.
Nice Shimano cassette & freehub, not a freewheel.
When I get a bike cheap of unknown origin I usually replace the chain & cassette & service every (loose ball) bearing.
You would need a chain tool, chain whip & a Shimano cassette removal tool, which are cheap & a good investment if you like working on bikes.