02-04-2010, 01:39 AM
Hey all,
I promised some photos of my project to make some cone wrenches. The project is not yet completed but will add more photos when I am done. Weather is the determining factor because I don’t like working in the cold and also paint requires a minimum of 60 degrees to dry properly. I won’t use paint or perform metal grinding indoors. You can follow the same procedure when creating cone wrenches using thinner material. It will be easier too.
This project is a headset wrench that is 3/16” inch thick flat cold-rolled metal, 2.5” wide and 16” long. New plans include cutting a handle out of the middle so that it isn’t so wide and easier to handle. I decided to make this one a ‘double open-end’ 30mm and 42mm wrench because that’s my immediate need. For cone wrenches I am planning to create single open-end wrenches that are longer than usual (an average of 10” in length) for better leverage.
TOOLS:
Angle Grinder, 4.5” with metal cutting disk, grinding wheel, and ~80-grit flap-disk.
Bench Grinder, convenient for straightening cuts.
Chop Saw, metal abrasive (optional)
Hand-File, metal, flat
Scribe or marking tool
Caliper for measurements
Drill or Drill Press, and medium size standard drill bit
Vise (to safely clamp the work down)
MATERIALS:
16”x2.5” – 3/16” thick Cold-rolled Steel
Electrical Tape (for handle)
Paint, flat black, to prevent rust
ALWAYS use safety goggles/mask, gloves, and respirator when grinding or painting. And be VERY careful with grinders and cutting tools. An angle grinder is like a Dremel tool on steroids.
Cold-rolled steel is very tough compared to hot-rolled steel, it is very difficult to bend, and so this is why I decided to use it. I think it is very comparable in strength to “stamped” steel. (more to come)
Steve
I clamped the piece of metal in my vise and rounded the corners using the angle grinder and grinding wheel shown in the photo. (more to come)
NEXT - Then I measured 30mm width at one end and marked it in the center noting that I needed to stay inside the lines in order not to cut out too much metal. I was about 2-3 mm inside after cutting, and then would remove small amounts using a bench grinder (fine grit) and hand file later. Note the angle grinder with grinding wheel in the background and the cutting disk laying on top of the metal stock. (more to come)
I promised some photos of my project to make some cone wrenches. The project is not yet completed but will add more photos when I am done. Weather is the determining factor because I don’t like working in the cold and also paint requires a minimum of 60 degrees to dry properly. I won’t use paint or perform metal grinding indoors. You can follow the same procedure when creating cone wrenches using thinner material. It will be easier too.
This project is a headset wrench that is 3/16” inch thick flat cold-rolled metal, 2.5” wide and 16” long. New plans include cutting a handle out of the middle so that it isn’t so wide and easier to handle. I decided to make this one a ‘double open-end’ 30mm and 42mm wrench because that’s my immediate need. For cone wrenches I am planning to create single open-end wrenches that are longer than usual (an average of 10” in length) for better leverage.
TOOLS:
Angle Grinder, 4.5” with metal cutting disk, grinding wheel, and ~80-grit flap-disk.
Bench Grinder, convenient for straightening cuts.
Chop Saw, metal abrasive (optional)
Hand-File, metal, flat
Scribe or marking tool
Caliper for measurements
Drill or Drill Press, and medium size standard drill bit
Vise (to safely clamp the work down)
MATERIALS:
16”x2.5” – 3/16” thick Cold-rolled Steel
Electrical Tape (for handle)
Paint, flat black, to prevent rust
ALWAYS use safety goggles/mask, gloves, and respirator when grinding or painting. And be VERY careful with grinders and cutting tools. An angle grinder is like a Dremel tool on steroids.
Cold-rolled steel is very tough compared to hot-rolled steel, it is very difficult to bend, and so this is why I decided to use it. I think it is very comparable in strength to “stamped” steel. (more to come)
Steve
I clamped the piece of metal in my vise and rounded the corners using the angle grinder and grinding wheel shown in the photo. (more to come)
NEXT - Then I measured 30mm width at one end and marked it in the center noting that I needed to stay inside the lines in order not to cut out too much metal. I was about 2-3 mm inside after cutting, and then would remove small amounts using a bench grinder (fine grit) and hand file later. Note the angle grinder with grinding wheel in the background and the cutting disk laying on top of the metal stock. (more to come)
Junkyard Tools rescued from the junkyard!