Have questions or want to discuss cycling? Join Now or Sign In to participate in the BikeRide community.

Best Black Friday E-Bike Deals 2024 | Up to $1,700 in Savings

New: Take Part in the November Giveaway: Starts November 18th


What to consider when changing wheel size?
#1
The bike is a CCM from the 70's, entry level with steel frame.

I'm not certain on the size of the rim but it sports a 26 x 1 3/8 tire.

I would like to replace the rim, what are my options? I would like to find a rim that can accommodate a tire with more width as would like try using a snow tire.

How can I determine my size restriction?
  Reply
#2
Start here:
http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

26 x 1 3/8 is either a 590 or 597 mm diameter wheel depending on whether it's a Schwinn or not.
The two most common sizes you could switch to is the 26 mtn bike size (559mm) or "700c" (622mm)

650B is a size that has started to regain popularity (584mm) and is the closest to what you've got. But you would have limited rim and tire choices.

What you can fit comes down to clearance on your frame & fork as well as brakes. Remember that these measurements are diameters, so you need to think in terms of radius's to figure out how much room you have to go up or down. Remember too that wider tires are generally taller as well.

My guess would be that you could go down to a 26" mtn rim. But the big worries would be clearance for the tire in the frame/fork and whether your brakes would have enough reach to still hit the rim with the pads.
  Reply
#3
Thanks for sending the link. At first glance its nothing short of a nightmare, I think I'd rather attempt to split the atom! Wink It certainly requires a reread to get this to register.

I would be pleased if I could get a 26 (559mm) mtn rim on. My concern is the clearance as my fork tapers.

I was also planning to use a mudguard and caliper brakes which would require some hard measurements. I was hoping to find a lazy route but it would seem best that I measure my options.
  Reply
#4
You are right to worry about tire clearance and making sure that the caliper brake will have long enough reach to get to the rim. I also neglected to mention that if you get pre-built 26" wheels, you'll probably have some issues with the rear axle being too wide for your frame. There's ways to deal with that as well, but it's another thing to deal with...

If you want to put together a beater, winter bike, the cheaper option may actually be just to find a beat up cheaper mtn bike and put some fenders on it. Won't be as fun a project, but depends on your goal Smile
  Reply
#5
Depending on how much you want to spend.....

You could replace the fork with one intended for ISO559 rims - I did that on my 310 (the original fork was damaged), but am using a ISO590 rims on the bike front and rear. My 310 originally had ISO630 rims. They did not provide enough clearance for fenders. ISO 622 would not have provided enough extra clearance, so next step with tire choices that suit me is ISO590.

For the back, you can either go long reach brakes, or make an adaptor plate as Sheldon shows.

Linear pull and modern dual pivot side pull brakes are much more effect than earlier brakes - it is amazing the difference.
Nigel
  Reply
#6
I have thought about replacing the fork. Could the slight change in the bikes geometry cause any issues?

It's been recommended to me as well to use cantilever brakes for additional stopping power though my current fork doesn't have any fittings to support them.

I don't have any experience with modern dual pivot sidepulls but I will be certain to check them out. Thanks Nigel!
  Reply
#7
(01-14-2013, 03:53 PM)krashTest Wrote:  I have thought about replacing the fork. Could the slight change in the bikes geometry cause any issues?

It's been recommended to me as well to use cantilever brakes for additional stopping power though my current fork doesn't have any fittings to support them.

It is highly unlikely that you will notice any change in geometry.

I would not go with cantilever brakes - I switched from cantis to linear pull brakes on both my commuter and tandem because of inadequate stopping power.

Our Tandem:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-2920.html

My commuter:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3036.html
Nigel
  Reply
#8
My bad, I meant to say calipers instead of cantilever. I still get them mixed up.

Nice job on the commuter btw.
  Reply


Possibly Related Threads...
Thread
Author
Replies
Views
Last Post
 
6,246
06-27-2016, 04:48 PM
Last Post: DaveM
 
7,314
05-03-2014, 01:04 PM
Last Post: tomdavis8
 
16,209
04-12-2011, 08:26 PM
Last Post: kerhs
 
9,475
09-10-2008, 04:52 AM
Last Post: IainAdams

Forum Jump:

[-]
10 Latest Posts
Recording Bike Rides
Yesterday 01:37 AM
Ketone Ester $$$
11-19-2024 01:04 AM
Trek domane tyre
11-18-2024 01:58 PM
Old fossil buys Ebike
11-17-2024 06:39 AM
Bike bus
11-17-2024 12:14 AM
Second wheelset for ebike.
11-16-2024 08:20 PM
Humber "Eiffel Safety" bike 1800s
11-16-2024 03:05 PM
Moving in Style: Beyond Regular Transpor...
11-15-2024 03:01 PM
Great UK Cycle Camping Map, For E-Bikes,...
11-10-2024 06:55 AM
Cycling is Anti-Aging, But There's a Cat...
11-10-2024 06:48 AM

[-]
Join BikeRide on Strava
Feel free to join if you are on Strava: www.strava.com/clubs/bikeridecom

[-]
Top 5 Posters This Month
no avatar 1. Jesper
22 posts
no avatar 2. enkei
19 posts
no avatar 3. GirishH
14 posts
no avatar 4. ReapThaWhirlwind
11 posts
no avatar 5. Flowrider
11 posts