Hi, I been upgrading my old bike with new brake and shift cables. I got my brakes working and now trying to get my shift cables working. I was able to install new shift cable, I made sure to hold the cable tight and tighten the
Bolt to keep in place. But it doesn't move the derailer at all when shifting. I have a feeling it's a simple fix that I'm missing something. I thought it might be the new housing installed, I removed it and didn't do anything. I also adjusted the barrel adjuster. I appreciate any advice. I'm trying to avoid paying my local bike shop. Thank you
(04-29-2025, 12:03 PM)Alex88627 Wrote: Hi, I been upgrading my old bike with new brake and shift cables. I got my brakes working and now trying to get my shift cables working. I was able to install new shift cable, I made sure to hold the cable tight and tighten the
Bolt to keep in place. But it doesn't move the derailer at all when shifting. I have a feeling it's a simple fix that I'm missing something. I thought it might be the new housing installed, I removed it and didn't do anything. I also adjusted the barrel adjuster. I appreciate any advice. I'm trying to avoid paying my local bike shop. Thank you
Start by dis connecting the cable and make sure you can move the derailluer by hand, then test the cable movement by holding the cable and operating the shifter. If both pass, make sure u r in the right gear and reconnect the cable and try again.
I will note that you should always check derailluer hangar alignment before connecting the rear mech and proper adjustment of the H/L adjustment screws for precise tuning. This is where the ball drops if you do not own a dag tool and know how to use it.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
I been able to get it working and all I have to do is tweak with the limit screws and barrel adjuster since it skips gears.
Also, the bike mechanic who installed my bike had no housing under the frame and near the rear tire. I'm not sure if that was maybe intentionally done.
But I was planning on using the new housing I have.
First off and unrelated to your issue is the kickstand is not the right one. Bikes with the kickstand mounting plate such as yours does not need clamped to your frame cracking the paint off. remove the top plate, get a shorter stainless bolt and lock washer, I also use a flat washer to protect the paint even further. If your bought and installed it do not feel bad as half the bike shops in town cannot get that right either.lol
Your housing stops right where your cable stops are on your frame, your cables need to be in the groove of the bottom bracket cable guide as it travels to each derailleur. your barrel adjuster on the the 3spd looks beat to crap, it should have a spring in it. It should be screwed in all the way then backed out about three turns before the cable is attached. I hope u realized that setting up the front derailluer can be a trying task at times and imho for most much harder than the rear.
Your skipping could be a few things but the top two would be cable slack, hanger out of alignment, improper set up in general. Set the rear before even starting the front mech. I cannot express this enough about checking and aligning the rear derailleur hanger which is step 1. you cannot skip step one and expect perfect results. If you want to be your own bike shop to save money and learn. Then you are going to need to buy a DAG tool, simple as that. You will need a way to hang the bike or get a workstand. you cannot set the bike up correct upside down. since I do not know how to post videos here, I suggest you check out some quality videos, here or parktools site that may help
This is how the kickstand should be. If you want to learn may as well start here.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
This an example of a normal bike such as yours, in for a tuneup/checkup. it will be getting all new cable/housing replacement just like what you are doing. This my step Step 1. and why it is so important to do step1 and why you have to start here which you cannot do at this time if you do not have this tool. It reads 4 point of the rim in relationship to the rear mech. Industry standard on all 4 points is +or- 4mm (I work it to +or- 2mm) That is my fine tuning standard. You will see and I hope you understand that this bike looked okay with the naked eye but is out 5 times the industry standard and if not corrected one cannot expect things to work right at all. Another reason that is you want bike shop results doing it yourself you have to be properly equipped to do so or take what you get. If you choose not to tool up properly then you get what you get, simple as that. Its awesome you wish to do it, but you still have to be able to do it properly for expected results. 90% of new bikes in a box are out of industry standards from the 40yrs I have been building bikes is what I have witnessed. So what chance does a used bike like have? not a prayer! It must be checked and adjusted as needed before you move on with installation and tune. I will tell you though not pictured the X axis was also out as bad as the Y axis pictured.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Don't tighten the cable too tight. Just lightly tug the cable when fixing the bolt down to remove the most basic amount of slack.
You will best remove the rest of the slack and tune the tension with the barrel adjuster as mentioned above. Before you begin, dial the adjuster all the way in (screw it all the way in)—then fix the line and the bolt. Dial the adjuster out subtly, and run the crank, then try to shift up. Shift back down if it doesn't go or isn't smooth. Repeat this process until your shifting gradient is as perfect as it's going to get. When you get to the top, dial the limit screw all the way out until it loses contact with the hammer, then dial it back in only until the the most subtle pressure contact against the hammer. This is what I consider the perfect limit screw tension.
The only reason you would need to tug the line tighter than the most basic when fixing the line into the bolt is if you're dealing with a lot of cable housing in-between, because it creates a lot of slack, and can dampen the effects of the barrel adjusters dramatically. I've had bikes like this. You could just taper down the length of the housing line a bit, but some people will always refuse to mess around with all that.
(05-04-2025, 02:38 PM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote: Don't tighten the cable too tight. Just lightly tug the cable when fixing the bolt down to remove the most basic amount of slack.
You will best remove the rest of the slack and tune the tension with the barrel adjuster as mentioned above. Before you begin, dial the adjuster all the way in (screw it all the way in)—then fix the line and the bolt. Dial the adjuster out subtly, and run the crank, then try to shift up. Shift back down if it doesn't go or isn't smooth. Repeat this process until your shifting gradient is as perfect as it's going to get. When you get to the top, dial the limit screw all the way out until it loses contact with the hammer, then dial it back in only until the the most subtle pressure contact against the hammer. This is what I consider the perfect limit screw tension.
The only reason you would need to tug the line tighter than the most basic when fixing the line into the bolt is if you're dealing with a lot of cable housing in-between, because it creates a lot of slack, and can dampen the effects of the barrel adjusters dramatically. I've had bikes like this. You could just taper down the length of the housing line a bit, but some people will always refuse to mess around with all that.
is this advice you are giving before or after the step 1. i am referring to? and are talking about the frnt or rear mech adjustment?
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
(05-04-2025, 02:38 PM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote: Don't tighten the cable too tight. Just lightly tug the cable when fixing the bolt down to remove the most basic amount of slack.
You will best remove the rest of the slack and tune the tension with the barrel adjuster as mentioned above. Before you begin, dial the adjuster all the way in (screw it all the way in)—then fix the line and the bolt. Dial the adjuster out subtly, and run the crank, then try to shift up. Shift back down if it doesn't go or isn't smooth. Repeat this process until your shifting gradient is as perfect as it's going to get. When you get to the top, dial the limit screw all the way out until it loses contact with the hammer, then dial it back in only until the the most subtle pressure contact against the hammer. This is what I consider the perfect limit screw tension.
The only reason you would need to tug the line tighter than the most basic when fixing the line into the bolt is if you're dealing with a lot of cable housing in-between, because it creates a lot of slack, and can dampen the effects of the barrel adjusters dramatically. I've had bikes like this. You could just taper down the length of the housing line a bit, but some people will always refuse to mess around with all that.
Yes, thanks. That was causing it. I had the cable too tight.
(05-04-2025, 12:14 PM)Painkiller Wrote: tep1 and why you have to start here which you cannot do at this time if you do not have this tool. It reads 4 point of the rim in relationship to the rear mech. Industry standard on all 4 points is +or- 4mm (I work it to +or- 2mm) That is my fine tuning standard. You will see and I hope you understand that this bike looked okay with the naked eye but is out 5 times the industry standard and if not corrected one cannot expect things to work right at all. Another reason that is you want bike shop results doing it yourself you have to be properly equipped to do so or take what you get. If you choose not to tool up properly then you get what you get, simple as that. Its awesome you wish to do it, but you still have to be able to do it properly for expected results. 90% of new bikes in a box are out of industry standards from the 40yrs I have been building bikes is what I have witnessed. So what chance does a used bike like have? not a prayer! It must be checked and adjusted as needed before you move on with installation and tune. I will tell you though not pictured the X axis was also out as bad as the Y axis picture
Thanks for the advice, I will look into that dag tool.
(05-04-2025, 08:14 AM)Painkiller Wrote: First off and unrelated to your issue is the kickstand is not the right one. Bikes with the kickstand mounting plate such as yours does not need clamped to your frame cracking the paint off. remove the top plate, get a shorter stainless bolt and lock washer, I also use a flat washer to protect the paint even further. If your bought and installed it do not feel bad as half the bike shops in town cannot get that right either.lol
Your housing stops right where your cable stops are on your frame, your cables need to be in the groove of the bottom bracket cable guide as it travels to each derailleur. your barrel adjuster on the the 3spd looks beat to crap, it should have a spring in it. It should be screwed in all the way then backed out about three turns before the cable is attached. I hope u realized that setting up the front derailluer can be a trying task at times and imho for most much harder than the rear.
Your skipping could be a few things but the top two would be cable slack, hanger out of alignment, improper set up in general. Set the rear before even starting the front mech. I cannot express this enough about checking and aligning the rear derailleur hanger which is step 1. you cannot skip step one and expect perfect results. If you want to be your own bike shop to save money and learn. Then you are going to need to buy a DAG tool, simple as that. You will need a way to hang the bike or get a workstand. you cannot set the bike up correct upside down. since I do not know how to post videos here, I suggest you check out some quality videos, here or parktools site that may help
This is how the kickstand should be. If you want to learn may as well start here.
Thank you @Painkiller!!! It looks so much better and gives the cable more space.
(05-04-2025, 08:14 AM)Painkiller Wrote: First off and unrelated to your issue is the kickstand is not the right one. Bikes with the kickstand mounting plate such as yours does not need clamped to your frame cracking the paint off. remove the top plate, get a shorter stainless bolt and lock washer, I also use a flat washer to protect the paint even further. If your bought and installed it do not feel bad as half the bike shops in town cannot get that right either.lol
Your housing stops right where your cable stops are on your frame, your cables need to be in the groove of the bottom bracket cable guide as it travels to each derailleur. your barrel adjuster on the the 3spd looks beat to crap, it should have a spring in it. It should be screwed in all the way then backed out about three turns before the cable is attached. I hope u realized that setting up the front derailluer can be a trying task at times and imho for most much harder than the rear.
Your skipping could be a few things but the top two would be cable slack, hanger out of alignment, improper set up in general. Set the rear before even starting the front mech. I cannot express this enough about checking and aligning the rear derailleur hanger which is step 1. you cannot skip step one and expect perfect results. If you want to be your own bike shop to save money and learn. Then you are going to need to buy a DAG tool, simple as that. You will need a way to hang the bike or get a workstand. you cannot set the bike up correct upside down. since I do not know how to post videos here, I suggest you check out some quality videos, here or parktools site that may help
This is how the kickstand should be. If you want to learn may as well start here.
Thank you @Painkiller!!! It looks so much better and gives the cable more space.
Yes! Much better, cleaner, and stronger also. hope all is well my friend!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Front derailer not moving [Solved]
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