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Specialized bicycle post issue
Hi folks - this is my first post! The seat post on my year old Roll 3.0 is doing something annoying. It has a bit of play around the shiny collar just above the post clamp (see photo). I was told there is a plastic sheathing inside. Can this be fixed or is the seat post all one assembly?

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That is a rather expensive (and fairly new I assume) bike by a reputable company to be having an issue like that. Is it a suspension post? If so then I would assume there would be a little bit of play, but if a good design I cannot see it getting worse unless you have had it for quite some time and have put many miles on it. Is the bike still under warranty?
Take care,

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
Thanks. The bike is about a year old, just past warranty. The shop owner says there is a plastic inner sleeve that does wear over time, I doubt think it can be replaced as it’s part of the post design. Although the Roll 3.0 is a hybrid, I wish it had more suspension as I’ve been driving it on shale covered trails. If this keeps getting worse I’ll have to replace the post. Who makes a reasonably priced suspension post with more flexibility?
I would in your case opt out of a cheap suspension post and replace it with a normal post. Find a suitable seat that has some type of spring to it whether it be more padding and elastomer springs or metal sprung.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
@Painkiller said is probably a better option, but given that it is just past warranty I would still contact Specialized and see if they would provide a replacement at no cost. I would also write a review to their site, F-book page, etc. and warn others of the cheap component they are installing on their bikes. Regardless of it being a suspension post, it should last longer than a year and a couple months.

Having not been previously familiar with the bike I researched it and was surprised to learn a couple of things about it and Specialized as well.
1) Pedals are plastic and are listed as an accessory rather than a component of the drivetrain. In all my decades pedals were never considered an accessory due to the fact that they are an integral part of a bike (except a balance bike, laufmaschine/draisienne/vélocipède, etc.). Of course, nowadays bikes are being sold without pedals, and that is to allow for a rider's choice of design; but they are still not an "accessory" as they are still a component required to make a bike functional in a normal sense as to what a bike needs to be able to use it.
2) the Roll 3.0 is a heavy bike before any "accessories" are added. Spec'd at approx. 30.4 lbs. on an alloy frame/steel fork without any suspension (not counting the suspension seat post).
3) the chainring is 40T with 12-42T rear cluster. I could not effectively ride that bike since my flat terrain gearing is usually 50T or larger front with 11T to 13T as my smallest rear cogs. I would not be able to pedal the 3.0 down any real hill so no speed gain other than gravity. It is obviously well geared for hill climbing and having the bike heavily loaded.
4) no "top" brand parts except Shimano rear hub (model not stated so low-end model, paired w/unknown freehub; Shimano FH is not compatible w/Advent RD) and entry level Tektro hydraulic brakes; I assume a money saving aspect using Microshift (Forte) components; no group level model (except "Advent" RD) is specified so I assume it is their bargain or entry level group excepting the decent Advent RD.
4) loose ball bearing front hub. Not an issue, but I am surprised it is not a sealed bearing hub; even more surprised that it was listed in the hub description.
5) it is not a cheap bike; listed approx. $850-$1000, but just about every part is lower end entry level stuff. Might be a decent bike at the $800 price range and below but researrching some components reveals that they are very low cost (e.g Tektro H-T275 brakeset can bought for about $80 sans rotors). This probably accounts for the unbranded seat post not surviving much use before starting to fail.

Probably a good bike to find used in good condition and then upgrade just about everything you can. Not much room for a quick reduction of weight except replacing steel fork, and using a standard alloy seat post. Wheelset ("Nimbus") is probably heavy compared to others but for the bike and cost to upgrade might be overkill unless upgrading the entire bike at which point you probably could find a better kitted bike without it needing any changes.

My humble opinion:
I am sure the bike was designed and kitted to stay at or below the $1000 price level, and meant to suit certain riders. The main issue for me regarding the bike's spec's is the chainring size. It is pretty much useless for those wanting a bike geared for higher speeds unless you are a spinner at very high crank rpms. I can see myself on it with a 48T (46T minimum) ring providing a reasonable ratio for road applications while still being very capable on hilly and softer terrains given I would still have a 42T low gear for those tougher conditions. No breakdown of the rear (8 spd) cluster was given so I am unable to determine how the ratio will change through the range of cog sizes. If it was 12, 14, 17, 20, 25, 30, 36, 42 I might not be too put off using it as an all around cruising, touring, and climbing bike; but not really road worthy for my normal use. My road bike for hills has its lowest ratio at 1.625:1 (39x24) so that equates to this bike (if having a 25T cog) having a 1.6:1 ratio (40x25) and a lot of wasted gears for me. With a 48T I could at least get up to using a 30T cog (1.6:1) while still having a couple extreme condition gears if needed. Without riding one as a stock bike it is impossible for me to say that I would not like it for what it is other than the actual quality and performance of braking (should be okay for an old rim braker like me) and shifting (probably would not impress me given ring size and cluster range). Since this thread started based on a part already failing I tend to question the overall quality of the bike as kitted. Specialized should have fone better with that post, and so it calls into question where other corners were cut to keep the bike's cost as low as possible without becoming a low end budget bike using just enough name recognition to justify it not being classed as something akin to the "Wallyworld" bike designation. Well known (and unknown) bike companies dig themselves a hole when trying to satisfy the entire scope of the cycling community from those who can spend $100 to those spending $10000; and those wanting to cruise the beaches, race the roads, and climb mountains. Some companies just need to stick with a specific range and not sacrifice their integrity by trying to do it all by slapping together what are becoming department store bikes sold at twice the department store price. I have no doubt that I could buy a new department store bike and upgrade to or beyond the quality level of many bikes being made by companies like Specialized gaining both quality and performance while still being at or below the big brand cost.
I apologize for the commentary.
Take care,

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
Thank you Jesper. I knew what kind of bike the Roll 3.0 was when I bought it. I wanted to use it mostly on level surfaces and the gearing had its limitations. I think I will contact Specialized about the post issue especially if it keeps getting worse.
(05-27-2024, 10:03 AM)Superbaldguy Wrote:  Thank you Jesper. I knew what kind of bike the Roll 3.0 was when I bought it. I wanted to use it mostly on level surfaces and the gearing had its limitations. I think I will contact Specialized about the post issue especially if it keeps getting worse.

I would hope that a company like Specialized honors its patrons. I would replace that post for free if you bought it from me, and maybe even try to upgrade it for you. I wish I could tell you what post to get, but I have never rode or sold a bike with a suspension post.
I do not wish to demean the bike as I understand what it was meant for, but I figured I would state its limitations for those who might be looking at one. I was very surprised to see the gearing though. It is a much better bike than my 30 yr old Spec'Z bike (except the gearing!). Out of curiousity, what are the cassette cog sizes?

Getting out on any bike is great in my opinion and I still ride (and raced on) some old klunkers and British 3 spds that are about 50 lbs, and I love riding bikes from pre-WW2 era which are the most like a bicycle in the strictest sense.
Take care,

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
I agree with Jesper's sentiments, I think it was really meant to be a much more comfortable city bike rather than something that you can actually use off-road. Maybe a better more gravel or entry level MTB would be a better choice for you?
Shale is much cheaper than gravel. Most of the trail I use is pretty good but the shale sections are still rocky. The ATV’s have helped beat it down. I’ll have to pick and choose the times when the roads have less traffic if I want to stay away from the trail. Another option is to take the bike elsewhere to ride.

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