12-08-2021, 09:43 PM
I've recently started up my adventure into wheel-building. I've got two wheels completed now. Both 20" bmx wheels.
Mission Merlot 36 Spoke Radial (hoop built for straight laced spokes)
Alexrims 36 Hole 3 Cross Lacing (hoop profiled for 2 left 2 right groupings)
I've tried to gather a decent amount of knowledge from sources when it comes to the truing process. Some things don't seem to match up in my own experiences. Many suggest that a wheel should be dished with extra tension on the drive side, but I personally believe you want all the spokes to have a quality amount of tension on them. It makes the wheel stronger and more rigid. It helps to enable the wheel to stay true longer and makes it harder to knock the wheel out of true.
Another person mentioned that—what's more important than the overall trueness of the wheel—is that all the spokes on the [same side of the wheel] have equal tension. I don't find this to be very reliable information, because there is naturally a different amount of stress on the spokes for how they reach through or over the hub. This being said—it seems moreso that it would be important that all the spokes on [the same side of the flange] have equal tension. Which based on my experience seems to happen kinda naturally if you're building the wheel up very firm and tight.
Spoke length was the next big issue that I've found complications in. Many say that the spoke length can be 1mm over, thus prompting you to round up when you plug in your schematics into your spoke calculator (especially if you follow the rule of thumb for rounding). However, in my experience, I've found that rounding up (and then being 1mm over) can totally ruin your build. The spokes will be too long and protrude from the hoop, as well as have the nipples bottom out on the spoke threads before any tension is on the spoke.
Considering this, I would suggest rounding down when you do your spoke calculation. Don't use the rule of thumb for rounding, especially if you're trying to use the same size spoke for both sides, and both front and back wheels.
Anyone have any insights of their own on wheel-building and the truing process?
Mission Merlot 36 Spoke Radial (hoop built for straight laced spokes)
Alexrims 36 Hole 3 Cross Lacing (hoop profiled for 2 left 2 right groupings)
I've tried to gather a decent amount of knowledge from sources when it comes to the truing process. Some things don't seem to match up in my own experiences. Many suggest that a wheel should be dished with extra tension on the drive side, but I personally believe you want all the spokes to have a quality amount of tension on them. It makes the wheel stronger and more rigid. It helps to enable the wheel to stay true longer and makes it harder to knock the wheel out of true.
Another person mentioned that—what's more important than the overall trueness of the wheel—is that all the spokes on the [same side of the wheel] have equal tension. I don't find this to be very reliable information, because there is naturally a different amount of stress on the spokes for how they reach through or over the hub. This being said—it seems moreso that it would be important that all the spokes on [the same side of the flange] have equal tension. Which based on my experience seems to happen kinda naturally if you're building the wheel up very firm and tight.
Spoke length was the next big issue that I've found complications in. Many say that the spoke length can be 1mm over, thus prompting you to round up when you plug in your schematics into your spoke calculator (especially if you follow the rule of thumb for rounding). However, in my experience, I've found that rounding up (and then being 1mm over) can totally ruin your build. The spokes will be too long and protrude from the hoop, as well as have the nipples bottom out on the spoke threads before any tension is on the spoke.
Considering this, I would suggest rounding down when you do your spoke calculation. Don't use the rule of thumb for rounding, especially if you're trying to use the same size spoke for both sides, and both front and back wheels.
Anyone have any insights of their own on wheel-building and the truing process?