Hello again! Your chain is too tight. If you look very carefully at where the chain first meets the cog at the time of the sound you can see the chain "jumps" up very slightly due to not meeting the cog tooth smoothly. The chain should have a small amount of slack at the tightest point. Rotate the crank so that the chain is at the tightest point in the crank rotation (they are never perfectly round/centered). Loosen the drive side nut and move the axle slightly forward so that you can easily deflect the chain slightly (up/down) with your finger and retighten. Then loosen the brake arm screw and left hand nut, move axle forward to recenter the wheel, and tighten. Turn round to make sure the problem is gone and chain is just lightly loose at tightest point and you're done.
I hope that the hub adjustment you made was done with the help of a cone wrench. It's critical that the outside nut and the cone be locked against each other.
When you don't use a thin cone wrench on the flats beneath the locknut to first adjust the bearing and then hold it in place while you tighten the locknut the adjustment will likely come loose again.
No, a loose spoke only makes noise when ridden, not when upside down. Try again to get the chain tension just right and make sure your wheel is centered and the rear cog lines up OK with the front chainwheel when you eyeball it from the right. Also, look at the chain from above and see if it weaves back and forth as you turn the cranks. Anyone there who can give in-person help?
Play in the crank bearings does not usually call for a new crank, generally just an adjustment, which on the cruiser can be done with a large adjustable wrench and a screwdriver to move the cone.
I try to keep my bike from being noisy, not only because it annoys me but I like to bike early ( like 4am or 5am and I don't want the noises it makes to set off all the dogs in the neighborhood and wake people up )
I emailed huffy to see if they can add a new rear hub onto my order LOL.
It's unfortunate you've had so many problems, as coaster brakes bikes are generally low maintenance. I would warn you again that the bearings could tighten or loosen due to the cone on the right side not being properly locked, and that can indeed cause problems. You may want to take the rear wheel off and see how the bearings feel when you hold the axle brake arm and turn the wheel forward.
They may indeed send a rear wheel. The other option would be the internal parts of the hub, which means they have to match the hub model.
I'd be thrilled it they sent a whole wheel. I have no problems taking a tire and tire liner off of one and putting it on a new wheel. I have rim tape ready too.
If not I'd hope they send the internal parts of the hub . They have the date code from my bike so they know the exact model.
I've seen pictures of hubs with all the little holes around them for the spokes but there is noooo wayyyy I'm redoing all the spokes LOL.
Don't worry about it - not gonna happen that way. If you do get the entire hub the intent would be to just replace your hubs internals with that of the replacement.
Straightbangin, gotta tell ya, you crack me up! I love ya like a little sister already! (or @ my age a daughter)
got to to give it to you on the most video's in one post! love it, you just keep pluggin girl!. It does appear your hub guts are the problem on the cruiser. the crank on the other on, well. soak it and if you cannot get the puller threaded and it can be ridden at all, put the nut on just a thread or two and ride it around the hood til it loosens and starts to fall off and you are good to go
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
Awesome! P.S. Love your dogs too!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"