'85 Schwinn World Tourist

[nfmisso]

Get a new chain. I used a Shimano CN-HG50

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CN-HG50-8-Speed-Chain-Black/dp/B0013EP4W6/

On other bikes I have used the Bell 10-24 speed chain available at Wal-mart, and SRAM PC-830.

No matter what, you need a chain tool.

READ the instructions that came with your derailleur; they tell you how to determine chain length.

[madralah]

Nigel,

My Schwinn is up and running. It still needs a little tuning but I'll work that out. Here's my $10 thrift shop steal:

file:///Users/ryarlu3/Desktop/P1010055.JPG

Thanks again for your advise!

madralah

[jimboslice23]

your bike looks nice!!! i have a 1980 World tourist 5 speed i want to upgrade. i already took the frame apart and cleaned everything up. i want to use 700c wheel now and make it a 10 gear or more as well as geting rid of the FF system... and have 2 or 3 chain ring in the front with new derailers... does any one have any tips on of the wheels will fit. the bike is for my wife and she loves it so ill spend to get it back in shape even though its not worth much.. please. any help would be awesome!!!!!

[nfmisso]

Thank you

Lots of wheels will fit; the OLD is 126mm, but as it is a steel frame, it is easy to put 130mm OLD hubs in it. So just about any. Keep in mind that machine built wheels need to tensioned, trued and stress relieved.

What is your budget?

Have you removed the bottom bracket bearing races from the frame?

Most important upgrade is Tektro R559 brakes, for your wife's safety.

[jimboslice23]

Thanks for the reply!

Yes i removed the botom bracket bearings. I wanted to make sure there wasnt any rust an there isnt.. im thinking that after im done id probly be ok with $300.00.

What do you mean machined wheels? Can you give me an example

130mm hubs old?

Thanks again !

[nfmisso]

OLD see: http://sheldonbrown.com/gloss_n-o.html#old

low end wheels are built by machines (generally under $100- each), high end wheels are hand built (generally over $150- each).

Brakes: Tektro R556 or R559 - Nutted Mount Version
http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/brake-calipers.html#55-73

Here are some wheel options - I would tension, true and stress relieve, but that is me, and I build my own wheels now. Properly built wheels do not need to be re-trued ever; if a wheel need re-trueing it is an indication that it was not properly stress relieved when built.
http://www.amazon.com/Mavic-Open-Sport-Road-Wheel/dp/B007HOFPHU/
http://www.amazon.com/Mavic-Tiagra-A319-Road-Wheel/dp/B0030KXEUA/
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Cassette-Compatible/dp/B003RLCGAG/
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Joytech-Weinmann-Double-Butted/dp/B003RLL7QK/

These tires (selected for smooth ride, long lasting and puncture resistance):
http://www.amazon.com/700x35-Kwest-Black-Cross-Bicycle/dp/B001C6BJK6/
liners (Gold - color coded by size) (more puncture protection):
http://www.amazon.com/STOP-Flats-Bicycle-Tire-Liner/dp/B001CK2FM8/

tubes to suit: Presta or Schrader depending on the rims.

chain: http://www.amazon.com/KMC-X9-93-Bicycle-9-Speed-128-Inch/dp/B001AYJF2E/

crankset (this one is reliable, has a chain guard (my wife insists on that), though a bit heavier than some others, 48 - 11 combination is plenty tall):
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-M131-Crankset-170mm-48/dp/B003ZMDJW6/
even though recommended is 122mm BB; it will not work well (see the thread on my GT - No longer ugly). Get a 68 x 115mm BB:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Square-Bottom-Bracket-68x113mm/dp/B005DTIKQE/

Pedals:
http://www.amazon.com/MKS-Lambda-Pedals-16-Silver/dp/B001GSQVEE/
or
http://www.amazon.com/MKS-Sylvan-Touring-Pedal-Double/dp/B003Z6PGZU/
or re-use what is on the bike.

RD:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-M410-Alivio-Derailleur-8-Speed/dp/B00113HAYO/
and you need one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Shimano-Compatible-Index-Hanger/dp/B001PT8M8C/

FD the M413 is EXCELLENT, the M412 is not:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-SHIMANO-ALIVIO-FD-M413-8-Speed-34-9-Front-Derailleur-High-Clamp-Alloy-NEW-/130946111763?pt=Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e7cff1913

Shifters: what kind does she want? Some people like trigger, some grip shift.
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SL-M410-Alivio-8-Speed-Shift/dp/B0009Q2AA8/
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-Bicycle-Twist-Shifter-7-Speed/dp/B0017YX2OO/
don't rforget the cables:
http://www.amazon.com/Bell-Bike-Fix-Cable-Set/dp/B002GCALOU/

Above assumed 3 x 8 - cost goes up dramatically for 3 x 9 or more
So 8 speed cassette; you did not tell us about the hills etc where she rides; so two choices:
generally flat, nothing much more challenging than an overpass/underpass:
http://www.amazon.com/CASSETTE-SUNRACE-CSR86-11-23T-SILVER/dp/B008MAMNQ4/
places with much more challenging hills:
http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-PG850-11-32T-Speed-Cassette/dp/B000NNX2P4/

Please note that the above is a mis-mash of lower end and mid-grade components that if properly cared for will last a very long time.

Harris Cyclery, Amazon, Niagara Cycle Works and Crosslake Sales are all reliable suppliers.

[jimboslice23]

Thanx alot man this is what i needed i really appriciate it! Im mor of the rider in out house abut she said if u make my bike so that i can keep up with you then we will ride more often . So there likely to be hills around... What do i do the chain ring is not attatched to a bb its more like bearimgs that are located wher the bb goes .. thanks again

[nfmisso]

(07-12-2013, 03:32 AM)jramirez3836 Wrote:  Thanx alot man this is what i needed i really appriciate it! Im mor of the rider in out house abut she said if u make my bike so that i can keep up with you then we will ride more often . So there likely to be hills around... What do i do the chain ring is not attatched to a bb its more like bearimgs that are located wher the bb goes .. thanks again

I need a picture.

On my 10 speed, the left crank is normal, the right crank had the freewheel and chain rings attached - both came off with a standard crank puller. On the left side, there was a lock nut and bearing cone nut - very similar to a hub on wheel - remove, then I pulled the axle out from the right side. The ball bearings are loose. The bearing cups were threaded into the BB shell (frame), needed a TL20 tool to remove them. The BB shell is a standard 68mm.

One other item - the M413 with a great price are for 34.9mm (1 3/8") seat posts; I made a shim from a section of 1 3/8" OD, 1/8" wall aluminum tubing - see the pictures of my SR and GT:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3036.html
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3167.html

---

(07-12-2013, 03:32 AM)jramirez3836 Wrote:  ...but she said if u make my bike so that i can keep up with you .....

Tandem can never drop her
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-2920.html

[jimboslice23]

Http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jimboslice23/library/

[jimboslice23]

Http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jimboslice23/library/

Here is my pics tell mr what u think

ThNx

[nfmisso]

Hi Jim;

Looking at this picture:
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jimboslice23/media/IMG_1158_zps39b57728.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13
all you need to do is remove the bearing cups from each side (note the left side un-screws counter-clockwise; and the right side un-screws clockwise). The tool that fits is a TL20 - which are kinda rare. Some of the bearing cups are not very tight - if you luck out you will not need a tool to get them off. If not you can make a tool like a flat bladed screw driver from a piece of steel (helps to have a bench grinder and hack saw), to turn them out with a vice grip or similar.

---

The TL20 tool also fits the cogs set (freewheel like, but not a freewheel) on the rear hub. Once you get the cogs off, you will find standard threading that will accept a freewheel. The hubs are pretty good, but the steel rims add alot of inertia and mass, and are poor for braking.

[jimboslice23]

(07-12-2013, 05:25 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  Hi Jim;

Looking at this picture:
http://s1293.photobucket.com/user/jimboslice23/media/IMG_1158_zps39b57728.jpg.html?sort=3&o=13
all you need to do is remove the bearing cups from each side (note the left side un-screws counter-clockwise; and the right side un-screws clockwise). The tool that fits is a TL20 - which are kinda rare. Some of the bearing cups are not very tight - if you luck out you will not need a tool to get them off. If not you can make a tool like a flat bladed screw driver from a piece of steel (helps to have a bench grinder and hack saw), to turn them out with a vice grip or similar.

---

The TL20 tool also fits the cogs set (freewheel like, but not a freewheel) on the rear hub. Once you get the cogs off, you will find standard threading that will accept a freewheel. The hubs are pretty good, but the steel rims add alot of inertia and mass, and are poor for braking.

Thanks for all your help, im getting it all together.

got my bars.
http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b582/jimboslice23/IMG_1208-Copy_zps888a81c9.jpg

and got the BB ( went with the one u recomended) and crank set
Got it installed in a local shop.

http://i1293.photobucket.com/albums/b582/jimboslice23/IMAG0430_BURST001_zps5e71d1b0.jpg

still got to make the decision on the wheels and tires.

[jimboslice23]

Hey guys my wife found these online .. do you think they would work on the world tourist?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170893913574?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


I trying to stay with in that money range for the wheels n tires ... Thanks

[nfmisso]

(07-23-2013, 03:38 PM)jimboslice23 Wrote:  Hey guys my wife found these online .. do you think they would work on the world tourist?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/170893913574?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649


I trying to stay with in that money range for the wheels n tires ... Thanks

The will likely need tensioning and stress relieving, but other than that, should be fine. I view all wheels not built by a custom builder to need tensioning and stress relieving.

[nfmisso]

The WT is once again my primary commuter - for three weeks now. It is the most comfortable riding bike I have - I am starting to seriously work to understand why.

This weekend, it is going to lose its FFS, and gain an UN55 BB with a Shimano 52/39 crankset. The FD will remain original - still is my best shifting FD...... Have been trying to get the once per rev click out of the FFS BB - the adjustment between too tight and clicking seems to be less than zero....

[Rob55]

Nigel

Thanks so much for the recommendations and the links. Using your recommendations and a economical set of 650b wheels I got a Schwinn close to, better than, the Corvette I rode as a kid.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rob1955/9661577096/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rob1955/9167477322/

Found the 23" lugged frame on the side walk on bulk trash day. Pricey parts are Velo Orange fenders and bars. Ancient Shimino 105 BB and crank. Shimano 11-34 7 speed cassette. Sram 38 tooth front sprocket. 7 speeds are all I need to be happy. 58 yr old old man pulls a trailer with two dachshunds uphill easily in 38/34. Goes down hill plenty fast in 38/11. Bicycle Planet economy rack. I've got a Wald chain guard that I haven't installed. It has now a Huret single stem shifter instead of the dual sun tour clamp on down tube shifters shown. I have ridden it often on my 7 mile one way 14 mile round trip commute, but ride my Trek with dyno hub now that the mornings are dark. The Schwinn is more fun and turns more heads. It is the bike I ride to market and down trails on weekends. Your willingness to share was my greatest encouragement in this project.

Thanks again

Rob

[nfmisso]

Rob;

Very nice ride And thank you

[Painkiller]

like the color, pretty bike

[Rob55]

It was the only color in the trash that day so I took it. Truth is I couldn't be happier.

[nfmisso]

I am retiring my WT for the time being.  Yesterday, on the way to work, the rear wheel slipped forward on a short steep upgrade, which stopped the bike.  My weight transfer forward bent and twisted the stem, left grip several inches below the right grip.  The stem is also a bit loose...  I am not one to stand on the pedals while riding, if I had, I would probably be in the hospital now.

Most of the components will be transferred to a Trek 720 Multitrack that I have, which has vertical rear drop outs - the failure mode that I experienced with the WT is not possible.