05-29-2011, 12:03 PM
Pictures: http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/dianemisso/Stand/
I used two pieces of 3/4" aluminum angle, 1/8" thick, 14" long. One end of each needs to be cut as square as you can, the other end doesn't matter. 14" is long enough for a ISO 630 (27") wheel without tire, or a ISO 559 (26") wheel with tire. I don't know about ISO 622 (700c); as I haven't tried the Tandem's wheels yet - they are don't need any adjustment and the spoke tension is good. ISO 571 also fits with a tire installed.
Clamp the two pieces together, to form a 'T'; with the good ends matched as perfectly as you can.
Drill a hole thru the leg of the 'T' - going thru both pieces of angle. The hole should be centered approximately 5/16" from the end, and 5/16" from the bottom of the 'T' - AWAY from the "good" end. This hole needs to be enlarged to a bit over 10mm - 13/32" drill if you have one - I ended up using 1/2". It is easiest to drill use a center punch, drill a smaller hole like 1/8"; then separate the pieces to enlarge the hole.
On the front edge of the table, I screwed down a 36" x 2" x 1/8" piece of steel, for my dial indicator's magnetic base to grab on to. 2" width is about the minimum for the magnetic base. 18" would have been plenty long, but I was too lazy to cut the steel.
I used 3" angle brackets to attach the aluminum angle to the work table. #10-32 flat head screws were used to attach the brackets to the aluminum, and 1 5/8" construction screws for the brackets to the table. The first upright is screwed to the table, butted up against the steel bar. I used a blank axle with nuts jammed at the OLD for the wheel to be trued to set the spacing of the uprights before screwing the second one to the table.
Please note that this stand is not very rigid, so the you have to be gentle, and understand what on the dial indicator is the wheel out of true contribution, and what is the stand vibration/deflection contribution.
Magnetic base and dial indicator like these; but I got mine about 15 years ago - form Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html
I have also added a ruler to the bottom with 0 at the center, using medium binder clips to hold it in place, and two small binder clips to help locate the rim. See:
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/dianemisso/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311%20A/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311%20B/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311%20C/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311E/
Please note this is a reposting of information from another thread; I felt it more appropriate to put in the tools section.
I used two pieces of 3/4" aluminum angle, 1/8" thick, 14" long. One end of each needs to be cut as square as you can, the other end doesn't matter. 14" is long enough for a ISO 630 (27") wheel without tire, or a ISO 559 (26") wheel with tire. I don't know about ISO 622 (700c); as I haven't tried the Tandem's wheels yet - they are don't need any adjustment and the spoke tension is good. ISO 571 also fits with a tire installed.
Clamp the two pieces together, to form a 'T'; with the good ends matched as perfectly as you can.
Drill a hole thru the leg of the 'T' - going thru both pieces of angle. The hole should be centered approximately 5/16" from the end, and 5/16" from the bottom of the 'T' - AWAY from the "good" end. This hole needs to be enlarged to a bit over 10mm - 13/32" drill if you have one - I ended up using 1/2". It is easiest to drill use a center punch, drill a smaller hole like 1/8"; then separate the pieces to enlarge the hole.
On the front edge of the table, I screwed down a 36" x 2" x 1/8" piece of steel, for my dial indicator's magnetic base to grab on to. 2" width is about the minimum for the magnetic base. 18" would have been plenty long, but I was too lazy to cut the steel.
I used 3" angle brackets to attach the aluminum angle to the work table. #10-32 flat head screws were used to attach the brackets to the aluminum, and 1 5/8" construction screws for the brackets to the table. The first upright is screwed to the table, butted up against the steel bar. I used a blank axle with nuts jammed at the OLD for the wheel to be trued to set the spacing of the uprights before screwing the second one to the table.
Please note that this stand is not very rigid, so the you have to be gentle, and understand what on the dial indicator is the wheel out of true contribution, and what is the stand vibration/deflection contribution.
Magnetic base and dial indicator like these; but I got mine about 15 years ago - form Harbor Freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/multipositional-magnetic-base-with-fine-adjustment-5645.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/1-inch-travel-machinists-dial-indicator-623.html
I have also added a ruler to the bottom with 0 at the center, using medium binder clips to hold it in place, and two small binder clips to help locate the rim. See:
http://s211.photobucket.com/albums/bb8/dianemisso/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311%20A/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311%20B/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311%20C/Nigels%20Wheels%20042311E/
Please note this is a reposting of information from another thread; I felt it more appropriate to put in the tools section.
Nigel
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