Frame Paint Removal

[Bill]

Ok, need some ideas and help on how to remove paint paint from a frame. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

[viet_Cong]

hey im wondering the same thing, but how would u remove stickers?

from what i remember, you'll probably need a special paint remover from a hardware store and some sand paper. (depending on what type of material your bike is, you might need a primer for aluminum frame)

[KC-Steve]

Hmmm, you probably don't have a soda blaster. That's what I use. I bought a good one at Harbor Freight for about $80 on sale. It needs a large sized compressor to keep the air flowing. It gets in the tight spots, then wash the excess soda off with water. The downside to a soda blaster is that it doesn't remove rust. I wouldn't recommend sand blasting because it removes metal as well as paint and rust. I've heard some use walnut shells in a blaster but I have never used it. Some take the bike to a shop and have it done for $25 to $50.

Or you can buy a good electric sanding tool. I have a dual-action (DA) air sander as well as several electric palm sanders, belt sanders, detail sander, corner sander, . . . etc.

Finally, there are a number of chemicals that would work. Then finish the job by hand with sand paper. You will need to have a sanded metal surface that the primer can adhere to. If you start painting on bare metal, use a self-etching primer and follow it up with primer-filler paint before applying a color coat. Sand between each coat with 600 to 1500 grit paper and the finished product will be smooth as silk. Just get in the mind-set that the better your effort in preparation, the better the finished product.

Steve

PS: Sometimes replacement decals can be purchased on eBay.

[Joe_W]

The chemicals work well together with stainless steel cook pot scraping spirals (don't know the English term, sorry)

[KC-Steve]

(03-24-2010, 02:39 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  The chemicals work well together with stainless steel cook pot scraping spirals (don't know the English term, sorry)

Do you mean a wire brush? Joe, what is your primary language? Just curious.

Steve

[Joe_W]

(03-24-2010, 02:45 AM)KC-Steve Wrote:  

(03-24-2010, 02:39 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  The chemicals work well together with stainless steel cook pot scraping spirals (don't know the English term, sorry)

Do you mean a wire brush? Joe, what is your primary language? Just curious.

Steve

No, not a wire brush, I don't even know if those things exist abroad. Ah, just had to ask an online dictionary (and verify the word with google picture search) I mean a pan scourer: http://www.beaucaremedical.co.uk/Continence/product/Galvanised+Pan+Scourer+Pack+of+10.html
I found those easier to use than wire brushes, mine were too soft. I have to redo the paintjob though, I screwed up... but I just don't want to go through all of that again, I think I'll end up paying somebody to do it. I congratulate all of you who have the patience and skill to paint a frame.

My primary language is German. Yeah, I am your friendly neighbourhood Kraut in this forum so now everybody knows

[KC-Steve]

^^ Glad to know you Joe! Your English is excellent.

Steve

[Surly LHT]

(03-24-2010, 02:58 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  

(03-24-2010, 02:45 AM)KC-Steve Wrote:  

(03-24-2010, 02:39 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  The chemicals work well together with stainless steel cook pot scraping spirals (don't know the English term, sorry)

Do you mean a wire brush? Joe, what is your primary language? Just curious.

Steve

No, not a wire brush, I don't even know if those things exist abroad. Ah, just had to ask an online dictionary (and verify the word with google picture search) I mean a pan scourer: http://www.beaucaremedical.co.uk/Continence/product/Galvanised+Pan+Scourer+Pack+of+10.html
I found those easier to use than wire brushes, mine were too soft. I have to redo the paintjob though, I screwed up... but I just don't want to go through all of that again, I think I'll end up paying somebody to do it. I congratulate all of you who have the patience and skill to paint a frame.

My primary language is German. Yeah, I am your friendly neighbourhood Kraut in this forum so now everybody knows

Thats ok Joe_w I use Linux OS its German.There is a woman here we have met and she is German she looks pretty good too :-).Oh I forgot this was a bike forum lol.

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As far as how to repaint I have use my sandblaster for some bikes.And others I have use paint thinner with a wire brush and even sandpaper never more than 100 grit at best.After all paint is off I will sand it with 400 grit to 600 grit then to 1000 grit.Then Prime it with two to three coats.And sand after each coat before the next goes on.And for the paint color I will do it the same way but will use up to 6 or 8 coats of paint.And oven cleaner will take off decals easy.

[surreypete]

(03-24-2010, 02:39 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  The chemicals work well together with stainless steel cook pot scraping spirals (don't know the English term, sorry)

3M Scotchbrite pads are also worth a look, good for keying up paint ready for spraying, most coachworks and body repair centres use them.

[jr14]

Chemical Paint strippers work wonders, then remove the rest with steel wool and a dremel tool.

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(03-24-2010, 10:16 AM)surreypete Wrote:  

(03-24-2010, 02:39 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  The chemicals work well together with stainless steel cook pot scraping spirals (don't know the English term, sorry)

3M Scotchbrite pads are also worth a look, good for keying up paint ready for spraying, most coachworks and body repair centres use them.

Hey surreypete...I just noticed your sig, and I hate to tell ya...Cannondale ain't made in the good 'ol U.S. of A. anymore. They got bought out by Pacific bikes and the production is shipped overseas.

Sorry to hijack the thread.

[Bill]

Thanks for everyone's help. Especially Steve through email. Here is what I used so far. Just gonna post this from a another thread...
"Chemical paint removal DOES work just very very messy! Have one of these, http://www.amazon.com/Heavy-Duty-Stripping-Pads-Pk/dp/B00004Z483/ or steel wool. Also the gloves you use MAKE SURE they are heavy material then surgical. Yesterday I made that mistake and the chemical I was using burned right through leaving a red mark and a burning sensation on my flipping hand! Ahh yes safety goggles and I used this mask http://www.amazon.com/3M-RESPIRATOR-R95-CHARCOAL-per/dp/B002IV862S/ . Long sleeve shirt too. The chemical I used was http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=112."

Now it is time to sand the frame down taking any left over residue and paint. Was going to use an angle grinder but hand sand makes it more enjoyable (cheaper too ).

[KC-Steve]

Thanks for the kudos. I'm looking forward to photos of your new paint project.

As far as sanding off the left over paint and between coats of new paint, I would suggest a palm sander. You can buy standard size sheets of sand paper and then cut them to size of your palm sander.

I wouldn't try cutting corners. You will have to sand it by hand sooner or later though. When sanding NEW coats, that bike tubing isn't friendly to flat power sanders because they will sand right through to the metal if you aren't careful. And then you will have to use the primers again.

Good luck,
Steve

[GeorgeET]

(03-23-2010, 10:48 PM)Bill Wrote:  Ok, need some ideas and help on how to remove paint paint from a frame. Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.

Got in to this a bit late.
However striping paint from metal is easy to strip with paint strippers available at paint stores, There are brush on gel strippers that will bubble the paint of your frame in no time , than just hose it off and finish with some light sanding in nooks and crannies. Than use paint thiner or lacquer cleaner to clean the frame and especially if steel frame dry and prime promptly.

Careful with your paints use same manufacturer as some paints are not compatible.

As far as label removal thats easy too. First make sure its not under clear coat paint if so leave it alone. Otherwise heat it with a hair dryer to soften the glue and peel off. For some items on hard backing try thick dental floss, if that breaks use fishing line or shoemakers waxed thread Get it under the after heating and gently saw back and forth,

[Seb]

The brand of stripper i like to use is Aircraft stripper should be-able to get it at a local auto parts shop, this stuff strips every thing off. I have used it in the past to clean up my rims for repainting on my cars in the past.

[KC-Steve]

(07-18-2010, 01:40 PM)Seb Wrote:  The brand of stripper i like to use is Aircraft stripper . . .

Yeah, I just started a new project using the aircraft stripper on a car hood. Very toxic though. I thought the hood was fiberglass but it turns out that it is aluminum after stripping. They recommended it for fiberglass, but am pleased with the aluminum results because it left the epoxy primer coat intact. Even though I am still intending to cover it with another epoxy coat, it certainly doesn't hurt it to also use the older coat as well for the extra benefit of sanding and smoothing, after filler primer coat, and before final painting.

So if you have an epoxy coat underneath your paint it will leave it intact. FYI

You will generally find that under two-stage urethane paints (most often auto finishing).

Steve

[Bill]

Does it also remove the rust as well? The stuff I used was not aircraft stuff but definitely removed everything. This is the stuff, same as the link I posted earlier up above in tis thread .... http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=117 . It does come in an aerosol spray can. Lowes and other dept. stores carry it.

[KC-Steve]

(07-18-2010, 04:46 PM)Bill Wrote:  Does it also remove the rust as well? The stuff I used was not aircraft stuff but definitely removed everything. This is the stuff, same as the link I posted earlier up above in tis thread .... http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=72&prodid=117 . It does come in an aerosol spray can. Lowes and other dept. stores carry it.

That is GOOD to know!

The link provided says, "It strips multiple layers of latex and oil-based paint, polyurethane, epoxy, varnish and shellac from wood, metal and masonry surfaces. Removes most coatings in 15 minutes or less." ... so if you have an aluminum frame then you might try using Aircraft stripper so you won't need to use epoxy primer again.

Everyone should carefully check labels and get recommendations BEFORE deciding on the type of stripper they use.

The fact that it also removes rust is also important to know. And rust can only be found on STEEL, not fiberglass or aluminum.

The BEST way to determine whether you are dealing with steel or not is to use a magnet and see if it sticks.

Thanks,
Steve

[Bill]

Just wanted to note that when using that stuff it is good to wait about 30mins instead the suggested 10-15mins. Also a second application maybe needed if the bike is older. That is from personal experience.

[KC-Steve]

When I used yours or the Aircraft strippers, I was using them outside in direct sunlight so they tended to dry fast in less than 15 minutes. So waiting any longer made no difference.

The Aircraft Stripper says multiple applications can damage underlying surfaces, but then again, it is recommended for fiberglass and aluminum (designed to leave the epoxy coat intact).

Steve

[KC-Steve]

Just thought I would post some eye-candy on my stripping project mentioned above. I used the Aircraft Stripper because the hood was either fiberglass or aluminum.

Photo #1, is the before photo. The hood is from a salvage yard. The car was totaled in an accident but had minimal damage.

Photo #2, is after using the Aircraft Stripper. It left a lot of paint still on the car. And instructions said don't use long or in multiple applications probably because of the epoxy primer coat. The greenish color is the epoxy primer coat with spots of aluminum showing through.

Photo #3, is after SPOT applications of Kleen Stripper (Bill's stuff). It takes everything off it is applied on. I started sanding for the NEW coat of epoxy primer. Sorry, the light isn't real good this time of day.

Steve