Hi
I have been given a new (ish) front wheel for my bike as mine had a real wobble due to being cracked against a sidewalk
Now the problem is that the new wheel wont fit in my forks without removing the locking nuts (I had to remove them to loosen the spindle as the wheel wasnt spinning too well) Have I loosened the spindle too much, or will it be OK without the locking nuts,I have test ridden it a little and it seemed to be fine, as I am maybe not as young as some ,I dont really want to risk a front wheel seize up!
avatar=duck outta water!
(03-06-2011, 12:19 PM)tone1428 Wrote: Hi
I have been given a new (ish) front wheel for my bike as mine had a real wobble due to being cracked against a sidewalk
Now the problem is that the new wheel wont fit in my forks without removing the locking nuts (I had to remove them to loosen the spindle as the wheel wasnt spinning too well) Have I loosened the spindle too much, or will it be OK without the locking nuts,I have test ridden it a little and it seemed to be fine, as I am maybe not as young as some ,I dont really want to risk a front wheel seize up!
Can you take a picture or video?
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
As nameused said that does not make you ignorant at my friend. Just helps out a lot
. Welcome to the forums
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
Ye 10-4 to all above. Not all wheels are the same width. Bike type, age, you know DATA, and yes good in focus photos all help to get the right info. My wheel does not fit is just not enough. :-)))
Yes you do need the cone lock nuts if its a vintage bike with cone bearings.They should be set so there is no movement side to side when you pull the rim , but it needs to spin freely.
Just how oversize is the axle?? Measure your old one too or the fork ID, thats the size you need.
Never Give Up!!!
It wasn't unusual to run the front wheel without locknuts at one time, locking was achieved with the track nuts, one side being locked up and the adjustment carried out on the other side, then that track nut locked up. Because the clamping force was applied through the dropouts to the cone, it did not move. In fact, Sturmey Archer front hubs were like that.
BUT, that was on bikes for general use only, I would not want to use it like that today on a MTB.
It is very important to get the locknut and cone tightness ( especially on the right side) right to prevent the very real danger of the cone screwing into the hub and ruining the hub race or dumping the rider in the road.
You don't say what type of bike or wheel or what the OLD is.
Hey guys
Thanks for your bother but I have completely sorted the problem now, I cant tell you how I sorted it, as I would feel a complete idiot if I did!
But the main thing is that my MTB is sorted and safe!
Again many thanks for your willingness to assist and next time I have a prob I will not hesitate to post here (after first double checking EVERYTHING! lol )
cheers
avatar=duck outta water!
please tell us anyways, it may help someone else with the same problem. like that old tv commercial says, we all do dumb things.
Get on your bad pedalscooter and ride!
Aww this is really bad.....the locking screws were already there! just that compared to the original wheel they were narrower and a dark blue colour! Now thats why i feel really stoopid X-Ray !
On the other hand my bike is sooooo much better now with a true front wheel and is more of a pleasure to ride than before.
Next job for me is to buy some new gear shifters as mine are pretty well worn out.
Once again guys thanks
avatar=duck outta water!
there, doesnt that feel better? like i said, we've all done things like that, the important thing is to learn from it and hope others do also.
Get on your bad pedalscooter and ride!
![[-]](https://forums.bikeride.com/images/flatty/collapse.png "[-]")
