Rusty chain inspite of cleaning,lubing

[GirishH]

Hello, I was going to ask this question in @Flowrider’s post, but since this is a slightly different issue, I decided to start a new post.

https://forums.bikeride.com/thread-9267.html

I’m nowhere near the ocean, so salt-related rusting isn’t a concern. I’m currently in the ninth month of a long bikepacking trip, and sometimes I stay in one place for a week or longer. During this week or longer break, I rarely used my bicycle. Since I have a quick-release chain, I remove it, rinse it with whatever soap I can find, scrub off the grime, wash it, and then dry it. After reinstalling the chain, I lube it. Right now, I’m carrying Muc-Off dry weather lube. Please note, I have limited space, so I can’t carry all the cleaning tools or soaps I’d have at home or in a city. The nearest bike shop is about five hours away..:-(

I went for a ride the other day, after nearly a month. I lubed the chain before heading out. It wasn’t a particularly wet ride, but when I returned, I noticed the chain looked much rustier than before. I’m trying to understand if I did something wrong and how to avoid this rust.

Yesterday, I hosed down the entire bike and cleaned the chain. This time, I didn’t remove the chain, but just scrubbed off as much rust as I could with an old toothbrush, then applied lube after the chain had dried completely.

Do you recommend that I remove the chain, soak it in soapy water, scrub off any rust, rinse thoroughly, and then lube it once it’s completely dry?

Any tip is helpful.

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

As mentioned recently, Rustoleum make a rust inhibitor, which is like an oil spray.

[Painkiller]

considering your away from home situation, I would just lube and use it. Where the parts of the chain touch and move together the rust will not affect it. when you can just upgrade to a plated chain of higher quality in the future.

[Criminal]

(06-11-2025, 06:45 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  considering your away from home situation, I would just lube and use it. Where the parts of the chain touch and move together the rust will not affect it. when you can just upgrade to a plated chain of higher quality in the future.

Hey All,
Painkiller hit it on the nose!! I was going to ask where you were seeing the rust. If on the rollers, then not good; plate exterior is just aesthetics and rust will increase with use depending on the quality of the plating/anodizing, maintenance, and/or conditions.

A quality chrome plated chain is what I recommend for adverse/extended use. For road racing it is more of aesthetics since the chain is not exposed to the same conditions as someone doing XC/touring/mtb, etc. Chromium is durable and rustproof, and thus takes longer to get worn off on the best chains; and on nice looking but cheaper chains (like my new "chromed" $16 FW where I am alr3ady wearing off the copper sub-plating after a couple uses) they will still be better than an anodized (not chromium plating) one which is better than a "quick dip" or no plating at all (probably rare these days).

@GirishH a couple touring tips that may or may not be feasible for you (or that you may already be equiped with) which do not take up much space, weigh very little, and can be used for multiple purposes. You need some smaller well sealing squeeze bottles (you determine the size acceptable); I use1oz. eye drop bottles because they are durable & you can more easily dispense small amounts as needed or remove the "dropper end" for more of a liberal application. This is more for roadside chain service and not a full drivetrain cleaning (cogs, rings, mechs).
Regarding chain care (you pick your own lube!) while touring a full day or more: I have a bottle of Gojo type with no pumice/abrasives & waterless degreaser that can clean a chain, other parts, clothes, and hands. Another bottle has isopropyl alcohol (70%-90%; higher is better) helps clean the degreaser out of the chain, cleans other parts, cleans hands, cleans inner tube for better patch adhesion; helps disinfect that road rash, and light fires. A bottle a dish detergent like Dawn will also degrease the chain, can be used for body and clothes also; but of course requires water. I also carry my chain/multiputpose lube mix in the same bottles. For long or quick outings I always have rubber gloves (2 pair minimum; surgical gloves preferred). I often use 0.5oz bottles for smaller tool kits/shorter rides.

I know on the road you can not bring too much with you; but often just a little bit goes a long way if used judiciously.

I just cleaned a my Rohloff chain. It took 4 full solvent baths to clean. Too expensive not to keep serviced better, but that was only 1 month's riding and technically only about 1/3 of a month's riding due to multiple bike use. If one chain can get that soiled from about only 200 miles on dry paved roadways; think about what only 5 to 10 miles on gravel roads will do even when dry. That's why having a clean spare chain (and a couple spare links; I carry a mini Pup chain breaker) on long trips is paramount aside from breakage. Emergency spokes is also a must for XC touring.

Presently completing contruction of a short lap (.5mi) single/double/triple track CX, XC course on my property and expect to be doing a lot more drivetrain service on a per use basis when doing laps on the trail and jumping. Photo of bridge and jump armature.

[rydabent]

Actually once you have let a chain get rusty, it is almost impossible to completely clean out the rust. Therefore, I say change out the chain, and be and sure clean all the sprockets before putting on the new chain.

[GirishH]

Thanks, @Painkiller. Attached is a photo of my chain from about a month ago. It looks like the outer plates are rusted, but not the moving parts.    

The second photo is from yesterday—after riding through heavy rains and mountain roads that had turned into off-road trails, with streams flowing across. Just two days before that ride, I had thoroughly cleaned and lubed the bike and chain. But as you can see, that didn’t last long.
   
My recurring dilemma is this: when riding daily in such terrain, it becomes really difficult to wash, dry, and lube the chain before heading out again the next day.
   

I did meet a good mechanic here in Kathmandu who, interestingly, has represented Nepal in international competitions. He advised me against switching to hydraulic disc brakes.

And, when I asked him about my rusty chain, he took a look and confirmed it's a KMC—decent quality for what's available here. But he also mentioned it's a lower-end model compared to another one he had. I ended up buying that better chain as well, to carry as a spare while heading into the Annapurna Conservation Area.

(06-11-2025, 06:45 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  considering your away from home situation, I would just lube and use it. Where the parts of the chain touch and move together the rust will not affect it. when you can just upgrade to a plated chain of higher quality in the future.

[Painkiller]

don't worry so much about the cleaning as just keep it lubed and roll with it until its done

[GirishH]

Dear @Criminal, love your CX/, XC course. Are you doing all by yourself or getting help from others? Truly a great way to stay active and feel accomplished..:-)

Thank you for suggesting Chromium coated chains. Next time I will keep an eye out. Unfortunately the backup chain I bought may not be Chromium coated but supposedly is a better KMC chain over the basic KMC I currently have.

Thank you also for your thoughtful and practical packing list. It’s honestly not too much weight, and I can definitely carry items like isopropyl alcohol, dish soap, and the rest. These are nothing compared to the extra brake rotor or spare chain I’m already lugging around. The items you suggested are genuinely useful and will surely come in handy.

I do have a set of vinyl gloves and brake/gear cables. I forget why I didn’t pack spare spokes, but that’s definitely something important I’m missing.

One thing I’m still trying to figure out is how often I can realistically wash my chain—especially while cycling through Nepal’s monsoon season. The chain, gear set, and entire bike get coated in mud almost daily, and I’m often riding all day, well into the evening.
   
Status of my current chain as of yesterday..

(06-12-2025, 07:19 AM)Criminal Wrote:  

(06-11-2025, 06:45 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  considering your away from home situation, I would just lube and use it. Where the parts of the chain touch and move together the rust will not affect it. when you can just upgrade to a plated chain of higher quality in the future.

Hey All,
Painkiller hit it on the nose!! I was going to ask where you were seeing the rust. If on the rollers, then not good; plate exterior is just aesthetics and rust will increase with use depending on the quality of the plating/anodizing, maintenance, and/or conditions.

A quality chrome plated chain is what I recommend for adverse/extended use. For road racing it is more of aesthetics since the chain is not exposed to the same conditions as someone doing XC/touring/mtb, etc. Chromium is durable and rustproof, and thus takes longer to get worn off on the best chains; and on nice looking but cheaper chains (like my new "chromed" $16 FW where I am alr3ady wearing off the copper sub-plating after a couple uses) they will still be better than an anodized (not chromium plating) one which is better than a "quick dip" or no plating at all (probably rare these days).

@GirishH a couple touring tips that may or may not be feasible for you (or that you may already be equiped with) which do not take up much space, weigh very little, and can be used for multiple purposes. You need some smaller well sealing squeeze bottles (you determine the size acceptable); I use1oz. eye drop bottles because they are durable & you can more easily dispense small amounts as needed or remove the "dropper end" for more of a liberal application. This is more for roadside chain service and not a full drivetrain cleaning (cogs, rings, mechs).
Regarding chain care (you pick your own lube!) while touring a full day or more: I have a bottle of Gojo type with no pumice/abrasives & waterless degreaser that can clean a chain, other parts, clothes, and hands. Another bottle has isopropyl alcohol (70%-90%; higher is better) helps clean the degreaser out of the chain, cleans other parts, cleans hands, cleans inner tube for better patch adhesion; helps disinfect that road rash, and light fires. A bottle a dish detergent like Dawn will also degrease the chain, can be used for body and clothes also; but of course requires water. I also carry my chain/multiputpose lube mix in the same bottles. For long or quick outings I always have rubber gloves (2 pair minimum; surgical gloves preferred). I often use 0.5oz bottles for smaller tool kits/shorter rides.

I know on the road you can not bring too much with you; but often just a little bit goes a long way if used judiciously.

I just cleaned a my Rohloff chain. It took 4 full solvent baths to clean. Too expensive not to keep serviced better, but that was only 1 month's riding and technically only about 1/3 of a month's riding due to multiple bike use. If one chain can get that soiled from about only 200 miles on dry paved roadways; think about what only 5 to 10 miles on gravel roads will do even when dry. That's why having a clean spare chain (and a couple spare links; I carry a mini Pup chain breaker) on long trips is paramount aside from breakage. Emergency spokes is also a must for XC touring.

Presently completing contruction of a short lap (.5mi) single/double/triple track CX, XC course on my property and expect to be doing a lot more drivetrain service on a per use basis when doing laps on the trail and jumping. Photo of bridge and jump armature.

[GirishH]

Thanks, @Painkiller. I stayed for 2–3 nights in a village with no running water—just a natural spring from which everyone drank, bathed, and washed clothes downstream. I didn’t feel like cleaning my bike there, but I did bring my front wheel with the flat tire.

   
Yesterday, I rode to my next destination and found a roadside watering hole where I washed off the grime and rust from the chain and bike. I’ll lube it today or tomorrow before hitting the road again.

Attached is a photo of the new KMC chain I’m carrying as a backup—supposedly better quality than the one currently on my bike.    

(07-31-2025, 07:48 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  don't worry so much about the cleaning as just keep it lubed and roll with it until its done

[meamoantonio]

(08-03-2025, 02:39 AM)GirishH Wrote:  Thanks, @Painkiller. I stayed for 2–3 nights in a village with no running water—just a natural spring from which everyone drank, bathed, and washed clothes downstream. I didn’t feel like cleaning my bike there, but I did bring my front wheel with the flat tire.


Yesterday, I rode to my next destination and found a roadside watering hole where I washed off the grime and rust from the chain and bike. I’ll lube it today or tomorrow before hitting the road again.

Attached is a photo of the new KMC chain I’m carrying as a backup—supposedly better quality than the one currently on my bike.

(07-31-2025, 07:48 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  don't worry so much about the cleaning as just keep it lubed and roll with it until its done

KMC X is pretty good, I've had mine for 10k kms now and its still going strong for some reason, im on the 11 speed X11 version though so X10 is definitely longer lasting since 10spd chains are thicker

[GirishH]

Thanks, @meamoantonio, for the vote of confidence in my KMC X chain.

I think my previous chain was also a KMC, though I don't remember the model. The current one is a KMC — the mechanic confirmed it—but it’s been rusting like a it's a "rust-magnet".

That used to worry me… until the new issue popped up. Now I’ve got bigger fish to fry than a rusty chain. :-)

Just curious—have you seen any Surly Wednesdays in the Philippines?

I know MisterGordo will hate me for even thinking beyond it, but I want to keep fatbiking. I was told about the Giant Talon 0, but I prefer bikes that are simple: no suspension, mechanical disc brakes—ideal for remote, rough terrain and someone as mechanically challenged as I am.

Just wondering… :-)

(08-06-2025, 11:56 AM)meamoantonio Wrote:  

(08-03-2025, 02:39 AM)GirishH Wrote:  Thanks, @Painkiller. I stayed for 2–3 nights in a village with no running water—just a natural spring from which everyone drank, bathed, and washed clothes downstream. I didn’t feel like cleaning my bike there, but I did bring my front wheel with the flat tire.


Yesterday, I rode to my next destination and found a roadside watering hole where I washed off the grime and rust from the chain and bike. I’ll lube it today or tomorrow before hitting the road again.

Attached is a photo of the new KMC chain I’m carrying as a backup—supposedly better quality than the one currently on my bike.

(07-31-2025, 07:48 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  don't worry so much about the cleaning as just keep it lubed and roll with it until its done

KMC X is pretty good, I've had mine for 10k kms now and its still going strong for some reason, im on the 11 speed X11 version though so X10 is definitely longer lasting since 10spd chains are thicker

[meamoantonio]

(08-06-2025, 11:59 PM)GirishH Wrote:  Thanks, @meamoantonio, for the vote of confidence in my KMC X chain.

I think my previous chain was also a KMC, though I don't remember the model. The current one is a KMC — the mechanic confirmed it—but it’s been rusting like a it's a "rust-magnet".

That used to worry me… until the new issue popped up. Now I’ve got bigger fish to fry than a rusty chain. :-)

Just curious—have you seen any Surly Wednesdays in the Philippines?

I know MisterGordo will hate me for even thinking beyond it, but I want to keep fatbiking. I was told about the Giant Talon 0, but I prefer bikes that are simple: no suspension, mechanical disc brakes—ideal for remote, rough terrain and someone as mechanically challenged as I am.

Just wondering… :-)

(08-06-2025, 11:56 AM)meamoantonio Wrote:  

(08-03-2025, 02:39 AM)GirishH Wrote:  Thanks, @Painkiller. I stayed for 2–3 nights in a village with no running water—just a natural spring from which everyone drank, bathed, and washed clothes downstream. I didn’t feel like cleaning my bike there, but I did bring my front wheel with the flat tire.


Yesterday, I rode to my next destination and found a roadside watering hole where I washed off the grime and rust from the chain and bike. I’ll lube it today or tomorrow before hitting the road again.

Attached is a photo of the new KMC chain I’m carrying as a backup—supposedly better quality than the one currently on my bike.

(07-31-2025, 07:48 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  don't worry so much about the cleaning as just keep it lubed and roll with it until its done

KMC X is pretty good, I've had mine for 10k kms now and its still going strong for some reason, im on the 11 speed X11 version though so X10 is definitely longer lasting since 10spd chains are thicker

saw your other post regarding the hub breaking and I was actually about to suggest something else for you totally with the type of riding that you do, search up belt drive touring bikes I think these would really fit your style, no more chains and hub body is so much more robust versus cassette type. https://www.polygonbikes.com/path-i8-2020/ check this bike out

[GirishH]

@meamoantonio, Thanks for the tip on belt-drive bikes. Many people have suggested it due to lack of chain and gears but I am just averse to anything that's too fancy especially in the developing parts of the world. I’ve realized my bicycle should be as universal as possible—anything fancy will just make life harder..:-)

I heard about a rider from South India who did what I’m doing on an old-school cycle, like the one in the attached picture. These bikes are everywhere in the developing world, with parts easy to find. I’m not that crazy, though—gears have spoiled me..:-)
   

I’ll decide whether to upgrade or repair once I finish the Annapurna Circuit.

For now, I’m riding the jerry-rigged Mister Gordo through the Annapurna Conservation Area..:-)

(08-13-2025, 01:20 PM)meamoantonio Wrote:  

(08-06-2025, 11:59 PM)GirishH Wrote:  Thanks, @meamoantonio, for the vote of confidence in my KMC X chain.

I think my previous chain was also a KMC, though I don't remember the model. The current one is a KMC — the mechanic confirmed it—but it’s been rusting like a it's a "rust-magnet".

That used to worry me… until the new issue popped up. Now I’ve got bigger fish to fry than a rusty chain. :-)

Just curious—have you seen any Surly Wednesdays in the Philippines?

I know MisterGordo will hate me for even thinking beyond it, but I want to keep fatbiking. I was told about the Giant Talon 0, but I prefer bikes that are simple: no suspension, mechanical disc brakes—ideal for remote, rough terrain and someone as mechanically challenged as I am.

Just wondering… :-)

(08-06-2025, 11:56 AM)meamoantonio Wrote:  

(08-03-2025, 02:39 AM)GirishH Wrote:  Thanks, @Painkiller. I stayed for 2–3 nights in a village with no running water—just a natural spring from which everyone drank, bathed, and washed clothes downstream. I didn’t feel like cleaning my bike there, but I did bring my front wheel with the flat tire.


Yesterday, I rode to my next destination and found a roadside watering hole where I washed off the grime and rust from the chain and bike. I’ll lube it today or tomorrow before hitting the road again.

Attached is a photo of the new KMC chain I’m carrying as a backup—supposedly better quality than the one currently on my bike.

(07-31-2025, 07:48 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  don't worry so much about the cleaning as just keep it lubed and roll with it until its done

KMC X is pretty good, I've had mine for 10k kms now and its still going strong for some reason, im on the 11 speed X11 version though so X10 is definitely longer lasting since 10spd chains are thicker

saw your other post regarding the hub breaking and I was actually about to suggest something else for you totally with the type of riding that you do, search up belt drive touring bikes I think these would really fit your style, no more chains and hub body is so much more robust versus cassette type. https://www.polygonbikes.com/path-i8-2020/ check this bike out