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ANSELMO G. Losa Frameset
#1
I have this Anselmo frame getting ready to build up. Frame made by Giovanni Losa. Columbus "SL" tubing, 3t "Record" pantographed stem, Campy dropouts front/rear. Using Campy "Super and Nuovo Record" for primary build. Undecided on bar (probably a 3t "Record" if I can scare one out of the parts bin) and wheels. Pedals LOOK, painted white & black.


Attached Files Image(s)
           
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
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#2
This is tasty! I've always enjoyed light/white retro frames. Btw, there was a post yesterday on Bikeride's instagram account with 1979 Olmo bike. It also had Columbus SL tubing + Campy Super and Nuovo Record groupset.

I thought you might want to have a quick look > https://www.instagram.com/p/B66wBKyFo1X/
Merida Scultura 5000 (2015)
Merida Big Nine 400 (2019)
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#3
cool bike. do you know the yr., i am guessing 1990 ish
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#4
(01-06-2020, 09:31 PM)Painkiller Wrote:  cool bike. do you know the yr., i am guessing 1990 ish

Unfortunately, like the majority of craft frames from Italy there is no serial number/date code stamped on the frame. Those bikes were only made for a few years starting in the '70s and ending some time in the '80s; I'm not sure if they made any frames into the '90s. I believe this frame to be early-mid '80s due to only one set of bottle mount bosses, under the BB cable routing, no internal routing on the top tube, and an "aero" seat tube. It does have the Campy "portacatena" (introduced by Campy in '77, but I have a Colnago from '75 with same dropout) mounting holes on the dropout, but I believe that those dropouts were being used on many '80s bikes as excess stock since the whole "portacatena" thing didn't really catch on due to gearing requirements (loss of a gear). Losa built frames for many companies (Cinelli, Krapf, Magni, et al.) and I think is still building frames to this day (albeit carbon).
Probably not readily seen from the photos is that this has an extremely short wheelbase owing to the fact that the seat tube was "indented" to allow for shorter stays and have the wheel "nested" in the seat tube giving a more aerodynamic aspect to the bike.


Attached Files Image(s)
       
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
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#5
I have to admit @Jesper - this is my favorite! From the frames that you have posted here so far.
Autobahn
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#6
(01-09-2020, 10:31 AM)G_M Wrote:  I have to admit @Jesper - this is my favorite! From the frames that you have posted here so far.

Thank you! It should be one of my faster builds; I have everything I need, diverted some parts from a different project and "stealing" wheels and saddle from regular rider because I'm psyched to ride this frame. I have another make frame that's similar with "aero" mounted shifters, internal shift/brake cable routing, and "Profil" style tubing, still waiting for parts.

I apologise for the photos. They are from the seller who should have chosen a darker backdrop. I modified some for better definition. I am over a thousand miles from the house at the moment, but will provide better photos during/after build up.

Take care,
Jesper
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
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#7
@Jesper did you get it on Velosaloon?
Merida Scultura 5000 (2015)
Merida Big Nine 400 (2019)
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#8
(01-09-2020, 08:53 PM)Zviedrs Wrote:  @Jesper did you get it on Velosaloon?

I did get that frame from Velosaloon. It's been awhile, but I notice that they keep previously sold items on their site listing; all frames I've purchased from them are still listed, but marked as Sold. I've bought a few frames from them, all good quality with any issues annotated. Also, I've bought parts from them without any issues. With any of my European suppliers I tend to buy in bulk (4-6 frames plus parts), which gives me good discounts and savings on shipping. I also deal with some Italian based businesses. It does not pay to buy a single frame/part from overseas given the shipping costs. I can get similar frames in the US, but usually a complete bike at the same price with decent components for about the same cost as a bare frame with overseas shipping. Selection is better overseas for those unique artisan frames and after doing this for a few years I have been able to find some very good frames at a good price when using due dilligence during my searches. I have only bought 1 complete, fully restored bike from Europe and it was a fiasco, poorly packed and damaged during shipping due to same. Better to get something with a few scratches already on it, something I'd probably be repairing/restoring anyways. I'll probably be making an order to Velosaloon or my other European dealers in a month or so depending on if they have 4 to 6 decent frames worth my while and money. I try to do a bike a month, but needing to thin out some of the larger frames/bikes that I'm not utilizing personally or building for others.
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
  Reply
#9
(01-09-2020, 09:39 PM)Jesper Wrote:  I have only bought 1 complete, fully restored bike from Europe and it was a fiasco, poorly packed and damaged during shipping due to same. Better to get something with a few scratches already on it, something I'd probably be repairing/restoring anyways. I'll probably be making an order to Velosaloon or my other European dealers in a month or so depending on if they have 4 to 6 decent frames worth my while and money. I try to do a bike a month, but needing to thin out some of the larger frames/bikes that I'm not utilizing personally or building for others.

Delivery overseas can be tricky and end in disappointment like in your case, unfortunately. Even with new bikes packed properly by bike shop - frames can still get damaged in mysterious ways with those couriers. Reminded me of a case with my friend and his fatbike.

These days I have been looking at Velosaloon before sleep as bike project is on my mind for the next months & Vienna is quite close. How do you choose your frames? What are the key selling points that attract you? For instance, when we look at current offering: https://www.velosaloon.com/collections/vintage-frames-vintage-rahmen
Merida Scultura 5000 (2015)
Merida Big Nine 400 (2019)
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#10
(01-22-2020, 08:05 PM)Zviedrs Wrote:  These days I have been looking at Velosaloon before sleep as bike project is on my mind for the next months & Vienna is quite close. How do you choose your frames? What are the key selling points that attract you? For instance, when we look at current offering: https://www.velosaloon.com/collections/vintage-frames-vintage-rahmen

I had started to respond in depth, but did not save when leaving device. I will summarize:
When choosing a frame (assuming you know the dimensions wanted) I get one that is suitable for its highest level of utilization. I will not want a touring frame if my primary riding mode is of a racing nature even when road commuting. I'll modify the group/wheels to suit other uses. Know what types/widths of tires you plan to run. You don't often see that listed for frames, but I use 30mm tires (will not fit on many of my frames) on my "all-around"/trainer bike to ride on many terrains, and although it is not my commuter, it can readily serve everyday needs with guards and rack. It still started as a race bike and it can revert to one in 15-20mins. (23mm tires/tubes put on, rack/guards removed). I always ride over 17.5mph/28Kph and like a race frame for most of my riding. Rider size can affect utilization. For myself being of smaller stature serves well since I would not overstress a lightweight frame designed for a rider up to 50-60 lbs heavier if loaded for general touring. If you bias toward touring consider chainstay lengths, certain pannier to shoe clearances may come into play; longer and shorter chainstays may be problematic. When choosing the frame features it just comes down to personal preferences: guard/rack/bidon mounting capability, fork style (Colnago started using straight blades c. 1987), lugged/non-lugged, material(s)(steel, alloy, combinations, etc.), dropout style/type, etc. Remember, paintwork, pantographs, and embellishments, etc. do not make a better riding bike (psychologically maybe). I would enjoy a ride on a "Mexico Oro" with like components, but a regular base model "Mexico" with scratches and some rust would be no less desirable in performing the same function. If you are looking at it having some collectable/higher resale value ("bike collecting" is a separate topic) then sacrifices might be made; size not "perfect", not your favorite color, components (components specific to "period" frames is a separate topic), etc.; unfortunately requiring additional care to maintain its value. As a general rule "fancy" details like pantographs, stampings, chrome, and/or "special" paintwork are on the higher quality/limited production frames/bikes; but there are exceptions! Remember, one accident can mess up that investment! I take special care when and where I ride a "collectable" bike (technically, and in my opinion a bike that is for a collection should be cleaned/rebuilt and/or restored and not ridden except maybe as a "parade" bike and/or one entered in a show). Of course "Eroica" events are an "at your own risk" situation; thus I do not generally ride my best bikes too often in a public environment, but I do get most of them out on the "empty" bike trails where I stand very little chance of a mishap caused by vehicular, bike, and/or pedestrian traffic. Taking a country ride is not the same as city commuting concerning the risk to you and the bike. If you want a certain make and model bike for the aforementioned reason (collecting and) riding I'd recommend finding a frame in an aesthetically poor condition with like parts (properly functional), and a same frame in great condition built with like parts. Probably hard to get identical frame sizes and now you are having to store and maintain 2 bikes. I have 3 identical frames make, model, and size (and color for that matter: 2 out of 3 frames); one pure investment/collectable (100% original, not ridden; I rode 1/4 mile on it); one for training/racing; one for general use (some rust, but good function). It allows me to keep the "NOS" ride hanging on the wall while still be able to ride "that same bike" "vicariously" via the riding of an identical frame/set-up. My group of bikes tend to be in the middle of highly collectable range to decent vintage/somewhat rare brands (probably typical for many riders/collectors out there) that I generally have no problem using on a daily basis. In many cases the parts on the frame far out value the actual frame set itself. On frames with a value under $200 my parts are usually $200-$300 as a group. It is hard to build a nice vintage ride with period parts for under $400-$500 and also be able to get the same in resale value unless a particular frame and/or part(s) has appreciated in value over a fairly short period of time. My outlook on value for my bikes is taken over a minimum of 10 years, and although the value for older frames has been fairly consistent in the last few years (dependent on region also), there may be a drop in interest and what was garnering a decent price one year may not be in another. Also, personal preference regarding value is a big factor. I am not all that enamored with Bianchis (I have no issues with them, but they can keep their blue-green/celeste blue paintwork); so your Bianchi while having a certain value to you does not have the same to me; and the same goes for others considering a bike make that I might have; I know plenty of people who do not overly care about vintage Colnagos compared to other like bikes of the same era. To each his own. Since you are dealing with a better selection of vintage frames/bikes in Europe, I would expect that you should be able to find something very suitable in make/model/size at a reasonable price (savings on shipping is a big plus). As I do in the US, it is always best to research the local private sales online and in the newspaper ("garage/yard", estate, etc.), and small shops first before buying from a "vintage bike resale" shop (although it is a great place to compare products). My best buys have come from private sales and they were generally complete bikes that I paid the same or less than I would have for just a frame. If I buy from the European dealers, I always try for some sort of discount; primarily to defray the shipping and/or customs expenses. Frames do ship relatively cheap (I've paid $25-$50), but a complete bike starts to get expensive (I've paid $90-$150, but have seen up to $300; all shipping from the same area/country). if I can't get a minimum of 10% of the price (whether buying bulk or not) I generally won't get that item(s). Might try again months later if still available since most shops are trying to "move" their product in order to provide new items of interest; though usually excepting the very highest priced/rarest items. I believe Velosaloon has a filter for viewing their items based on price and/or length of time it has been listed; always make offers on the "oldest" items first and see what happens. Also consider if any components are included (one pantographed part may add $100+ to the price; and often headsets and/or bottom bracket assy's are included adding to the price). One dealer I've dealt with for a few years gives me 30% off the top on any frames and/or parts, but not complete bikes; although I do get a very reasonable shipping cost without any customs expenses added. I will make an offer to Velosaloon on couple of frames this month if I complete my desired projects, but since there is no rush or need my offer will be fairly low given their asking prices; they can only say no.

As a final note: speaking for myself, the best frame/bike is the one most comfortable in regards to fit and function. I know after decades what feels best to me now, and it is not on a frame built using any of the various "sizing" methods used, even those considering flexibility. Most size a frame much smaller than I would like; that is why it is important to know how you will feel riding a given range of sizes. Can you go a little shorter or longer on a top tube and/or seat tube? Will crank and/or stem length allow for not having a perfect frame size? I have ridden a 43cm up to a 62cm (ST c-c, various TT lengths, etc), and regularly ride 47cm to 57cm; in most cases I can make a bike to fit my use (change: cranks, seat post offset, stem) if the actual frame size is not optimal (51-52cm, I'm 5'7"/1.7m).

And that was a "summary"! I was much more specific in the detailed version.

I hope you are able to get a good deal on something that suits your needs. I may have something that might work for you both in fit and cost, but I would need to know what you are specifically looking at regarding use and size (yours and the frame) regarding frame and/or parts. I do not sell for "profit"; merely to cover my costs regarding initial expenses, time to refurbish (if applicable), and shipping/customs. Most frames I'm moving out of the shop are going to be larger in size (56cm-62cm c-c ST). Of course it would be hard to match your local deals when adding shipping, but it might be the frame/size you're not able to find; who knows. I know that I would not be as high in price as the "dealers" out there, but I'm not in the sales business; just rebuilding/restoration. I sell my excess and/or unused items only (generally frames) so there is no need to "try to make money" from that which I don't want or need. I will not knowingly sell anything damaged and/or in poor working order (unless requested for spare parts/repair purposes). Parts may not be polished, but will be clean/rebuilt/lubed if needed.
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
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#11
Received set of "NOS" Modolo "Team/Squadra" calipers for this build. Already have some black Modolo drilled levers. Sorry for the poor photos from a poor excuse of a camera!


Attached Files Image(s)
   
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
  Reply
#12
(02-04-2020, 03:47 AM)Jesper Wrote:  Received set of "NOS" Modolo "Team/Squadra" calipers for this build. Already have some black Modolo drilled levers. Sorry for the poor photos from a poor excuse of a camera!

Nice calipers! How much for a set, if I may ask?
Autobahn
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#13
(02-10-2020, 09:29 AM)G_M Wrote:  Nice calipers! How much for a set, if I may ask?

The seller was asking $80, but I got them for $65 plus shipping. They are missing the barrel adjusters, but I have some from another set that will fit.
I still may put on a set of Modolo "Equipe" calipers finished in black to match the levers (color only; "Speedy" levers), but these look great on that frame; they almost disappear with the white on white. I would not mind a set of white levers, but have yet to find a decent set at a decent price "NOS" or used. No bar wrap yet so easy to change if I need to. Wrap is always my last item, I often go without it (except alloy frames); my gloves (grip and cushion) do the job just fine, and I can never make up my mind on "color scheme" and/or type (cloth, synth cork, leather). Not a fan of "splash" bar tape, but I have some new black/white cushion in that style gifted to me but never used (I still don't see it happening; probably gift it to someone else before I ever use it). Only good options are: cloth mix of black tape with white tape (giving a two tone spiral stripe), white or black solid, or whatever leather stock I have (I make my own leather wrap).
The build is essentially done except for a permanent wheelset; presently just using a spare set to test things out.
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
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#14
Thanks for info. Sounds like you got decent deal on them!
+1 for the splash tape comment. Have you thought about matching handlebar with red bar tape? My eyes simply put this frame together with some red accent.
Autobahn
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#15
(02-16-2020, 07:06 PM)G_M Wrote:  Thanks for info. Sounds like you got decent deal on them!
+1 for the splash tape comment. Have you thought about matching handlebar with red bar tape? My eyes simply put this frame together with some red accent.

There's my problem with bar tape: too many options that would probably look good. If I go another color (e.g. red) I'd match up either the saddle and/or the pedals to give it a little color "cohesion". My bar is black, with the black levers at this stage in the game.
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
  Reply
#16
Kudos for the "short summary", @Jesper! That's true, I shouldn't have reason to complain about the selection of vintage frames and vintage bikes, plus the shipping factor. That's something to appreciate here in Europe. I'll probably have some updates in the upcoming months and I'll inform you about them either via comment here or via new threads. Your post will help for sure.
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Merida Big Nine 400 (2019)
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#17
I guess folks would like to see the finished bike; I will get something posted here when I return from holiday in April. Build changed a little from initial plans, but not too much. Pretty much a black and white scheme. Stay safe, don't touch your face!
Take care,
Jesper

"I am become Death, the destroyer of bicycles." NJS
  Reply
#18
(03-16-2020, 08:13 AM)Jesper Wrote:  I guess folks would like to see the finished bike; I will get something posted here when I return from holiday in April. Build changed a little from initial plans, but not too much. Pretty much a black and white scheme. Stay safe, don't touch your face!

Yes, looking forward for sure.
Stay alert, stay safe!
Autobahn
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