RST forks.

[darreng]

First is the class of these forks, elastomer forks ? Also how do I strip these down further ? And chances of finding replacement seals ?
Thanks

[elmore leonard]

(09-27-2015, 11:27 AM)darreng Wrote:  First is the class of these forks, elastomer forks ? Also how do I strip these down further ? And chances of finding replacement seals ?
Thanks

Myself! I would take them into a LBS and get advice from someone whose has lots of experience with working on them. I have replaced them with a rigid fork but you probably don't want that I'm guessing.

[Painkiller]

you do not repair, you replace them and do yourself a favor at the same time

[darreng]

Yeah replace then, thanks. I think I will go with rigid forks as will just be a commuter, what do I need to check before looking at forks, e.g. size, shape ?
Thanks

[Painkiller]

headtube size and length, threaded or threadless and have applicable brake attachments. Probably will have to replace the headset also. Pic of what you have may help. fork rake/offset probably will not be much of a concern, just make sure it is for the correct rim size. If threadless it will give plenty room to make height adjustments to your stem before cutting the steer tube.

[Painkiller]

(09-27-2015, 06:10 PM)elmore leonard Wrote:  

(09-27-2015, 05:52 PM)painkiller Wrote:  headtube size and length, threaded or threadless and have applicable brake attachments. Probably will have to replace the headset also. Pic of what you have may help. fork rake/offset probably will not be much of a concern, just make sure it is for the correct rim size. If threadless it will give plenty room to make height adjustments to your stem before cutting the steer tube.

When I did mine I took the old shocks forks into the LBS and he order them and cut the headset to length.
It wasn't expensive but cannot remember if it was $25 or $40.

Dunno Elmore, what a shop would would charge to cut a fork. I know what I charge to cut a fork. I also do not know the skill level of the O P. I was just saying this is the prime time to think about any height changes or not. I do know it seems the O P is willing to try and be his own wrench, with that said. I think he should cut his own steerer tube. For the $40 you mention, he could just about buy a tube saw guide, the proper blade, and he may already own a saw. He can keep it and make money with it down the road, or re- sell it and have the job done for pennies on the dollar. I prefer a guide that I can shim the blade gap to suit between my toothed blades and my carbon tube blades.

[GeorgeET]

I think he should cut his own steerer tube. For the $40 you mention, he could just about buy a tube saw guide, the proper blade, and he may already own a saw. He can keep it and make money with it down the road, or re- sell it and have the job done for pennies on the dollar. I prefer a guide that I can shim the blade gap to suit between my toothed blades and my carbon tube blades.
[/quote]
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Plumbers pipe cutters work well on round steel tubes, they give a straight cut that just needs light finishing. For a fork tube a small one could be had for under $20. They look like a c-clamp. Do not think they would work well on carbon forks. Easier to use than saw and guide.

[darreng]

Thanks for responses! For steerer tube I dont actually have any forks picked out yet for the bike now so I could not have too cross that bridge till another project, though when the times comes will be looking for DIY solution so the advice is still very helpful. For the headtube the size is 1.5 diamater and 4 inches in height and threadless.
Though most of it was dis assembled very badly a while back and now Im not 100% sure what parts come with headtube or headset. Some pictures too help. (sorry for Italic text cant take it off some reason).


The next two pictures, the parts are sitting loose and do fit into these slots.

[Painkiller]

I would just replace the headset to on this mod. Start fresh. Hard to tell by the pics but is that good stinky bud between the boards in the pictures ? If you want a cheap saw guide you can find a couple crappy stems somewhere, set on your tube, slide another crappy stem on the width of your saw blade and lock them down, then make your cut between the two stems. Clean up the cut and you are good to go!

[darreng]

(09-28-2015, 06:52 PM)painkiller Wrote:  I would just replace the headset to on this mod. Start fresh. Hard to tell by the pics but is that good  stinky bud between the boards in the pictures ? If you want a cheap saw guide you can find a couple crappy stems somewhere, set on your tube, slide another crappy stem on the width of your saw blade and lock them down, then make your cut between the two stems. Clean up the cut and you are good to go!

yeah definetely replace headset, though the parts I had put in the headtube for the pictures, keep them ? As Im not sure if they come with frame ?
haha and no not any stinky bud here officers

[GeorgeET]

I always take photos and make diagrams when I take stuff apart. Helps in reassembly.

If the caged bearings are damaged as is likely and you cannot find that size replacement, loose bearings are fine just use lots of grease to hold them in place when reassembling. I prefer waterproof automotive grease, Bel Rey....or marine grade grease.

[Painkiller]

(09-29-2015, 05:54 AM)darreng Wrote:  

(09-28-2015, 06:52 PM)painkiller Wrote:  I would just replace the headset to on this mod. Start fresh. Hard to tell by the pics but is that good  stinky bud between the boards in the pictures ? If you want a cheap saw guide you can find a couple crappy stems somewhere, set on your tube, slide another crappy stem on the width of your saw blade and lock them down, then make your cut between the two stems. Clean up the cut and you are good to go!

yeah definetely replace headset, though the parts I had put in the headtube for the pictures, keep them ? As Im not sure if they come with frame ?
haha and no not any stinky bud here officers

The parts in the pics are all of the old headset,.Always smart to keep all the old parts for the time being. The parts that were in the frame are the cup races for the bearings. Your new headset will have them and you will need to press them in. easy to make a press yourself. This is much better than trying to use a board and hammer
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGfvO-ztoT4