Threaded headset to threadless

[J. Hanley]

If I have a threaded headset with a 1-1/8" steerer tube, would I have to have the bearing cups on the frame replaced to use a threadless steerer tube?

[DaveM]

You would definitely have to replace the adjusting cone on the headset to one made for threadless. It is technically possible you could just replace this part and keep the rest of the headset. But I think you would be better of just getting a new headset and swapping out the whole thing. Trying to mix headset parts is tricky, especially if you aren't sitting with a big pile of extra parts to play around with.

[nfmisso]

It is easy to knock out the old cups - a hammer and a piece of pipe that is as large as will fit through the cup to hit the other cup, and long enough so you don't hit the cup or the frame with the hammer.

If you look in the TOOLS section, you will see several very inexpensive headset presses. Basically threaded rod, some sort of flexible member (I used spherical washer sets) and some washers.

My Green GT came with 1 1/8 threaded and now has 1 1/8 threadless.

[Lerxst]

[attachment=5681]Need to either find a threaded stem with a 5"+ reach or convert to thread less stem to accomplish the same results on a newer Electra C1 beach cruiser. Essentially need to get the handle bars out another 2-3". Any suggestions?

[nfmisso]

(01-18-2015, 04:10 AM)Lerxst Wrote:  Need to either find a threaded stem with a 5"+ reach or convert to thread less stem to accomplish the same results on a newer Electra C1 beach cruiser. Essentially need to get the handle bars out another 2-3". Any suggestions?

The third not listed and easiest choice is a quill adapter: http://www.amazon.com/Origin8-Quill-Adapter-22-2-Black/dp/B008ZTKNR8/
which then allows the use of threadless stems.