Hi, new to the forum, need some tech advice:
1) is it normal for the teeth on the same chainring to have different profiles - some are pointed and others shorter and squarer. This is a new Triple LASCO I am looking at in a shop.
2) How do I know if any new chainset I buy, will match my existing spindle? The chainset I have currently fitted is an SR SUNTOUR ZR 120, does that mean the square hole is 12mm?
Many thanks.
Zak
Zak; why do you want to replace the crank set? From that point we can offer some advice.
Nigel
Hi Zak;
The teeth look fine. If it works, I would not change. I have only changed the crankset on my World Tourist to get rid of the FFS. And on our T50, I changed the middle chainring because it was bent during transport. I also swapped the T50's granny ring from 28T to 26T to get a lower bottom gear for steep hills. I have never had a wear out issue with chainrings...
From the corrosion, it appears that the chain rings are steel - you can check with a magnet; steel ones will attract a magnet, aluminum will not. If steel, they are not likely to wear out in our lifetimes.
To get rid of the rust on the steel rings, you can rub them with a wad of aluminum foil dipped in water, then wipe them with your favorite chain lubricant.
Nigel
Hi Jac;
Chain lube: I use Tri-Flo, which is a thin oil in a solvent carrier. The solvent evaporates leaving a thin layer of lubricant. Truthfully, any thin oil is fine. Bicycle chains are not tough lubricant challenges. Wipe down the chain with a clean old rag until clean, then apply oil to the whole length chain, spin the cranks a few times, and go up and down through all the gears (easiest on a stand - I use a bike rack on the back of our Jeep). Then wipe the chain again with a different clean rag.
Wheel, headset and bottom bracket bearings probably need to be regreased on your bike. I use boat trailer wheel bearing grease. It is in expensive, and resists the environment. I'd suggest doing this once a year at least. More often if you ride on the beach and get into the water.
My rule of thumb for saddle height as measured from the crank centerline along the seat tube to the top side of the saddle is 2" (5cm) less than your trouser inseam measurement. This is on the high side for some people, but works well for me. I like my saddle level. I like my handle bars an inch (2.5cm) lower than my saddle (flat bars); still working that out for drop bars. There is TON of personal preference/comfort in this....
Tires: most of my bikes currently have Kenda tires; but I am debating on trying some Schwalbe tires. They are about 2X the cost of Kendas.
The vast majority of my riding is commuting on paved roads and trails. Very infrequently on gravel paths, and never completely off road.
Nigel
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