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Cruiser Handlebar Dimensions
#1
I know it's kind of boring & I don't know if this will help anyone, but it sure would have helped me a few years ago when I was trying to figure out which bar to go with when I was about to Cruiserfy an old MTB/Comfort bike. . The Reach dimension, how far the bar comes back towards you is really good to know. I listed grip length in case you were considering the feasibility of grip shifters, brake levers, bells etc...


[Image: Handlebar.jpg]

Measurements are made with the top of the grip area being perfectly level and parallel to the ground, with no "rake" or typical "up-tilt".
Measurements are maximum dimensions. eg, Rise or "Up" is from the lowest part of your clamp area (in the center of the bar), to the top of the grip area, not a center-line, or an extended estimated line or anything like that.

I made the measurements by inverting the bar, laying it into a square jig and measuring with an adjustable square.
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#2
Thanks Jef, for the info. I just did up a Trek 930, Added some cruiser/High-rise bars to it. The main reason I prefer flat bars is I can always put what I want on them. The Trek I was only able to fit some grips, DeoreII Levers, and DeoreXT Top mount thumbies and that was tight. I wanted bar-ends but would have had to use internal bar clamp style. But the bicycle sits funky cool and matched with a long seat post the whole family can enjoy it the trainer this Winter. now I can give my Allez Epic a facelift
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#3
(12-10-2013, 08:51 PM)painkiller Wrote:  The main reason I prefer flat bars is I can always put what I want on them. The Trek I was only able to fit some grips, DeoreII Levers, and DeoreXT Top mount thumbies and that was tight.
I did the same thing, bought the Wald 872 & couldn't fit my stuff on the grip area. That's why I put the dimension in my chart. Maybe I should do the Northwind bars I got too. Fine bars, super long grips, but hardly any reach or rise.
The Nitto bars you'd like are freakin expensive. Rivendell's got them I think.
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#4
Here are some pics of the Trek 930 with some 4'' rise bars. This is a 15in frame and comes in @ 26lbs 8oz. For those looking for a comfort style ride with high-end feel and quality. An older bike like this with a couple mods to suit ones taste is the only way to go. Like most riser bars, only have so much room to work with for levers, shifters, barends, lights, computers and such. With non-integrated shifter/levers I had no room for barends as you can see from the pics
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#5
I used the exact same bars on my Trek Navigator 2.0. I with I could find the same bar, but with more "up".
I've seen some Townies with more rise, but when I go to Electras site they show it's only 5" rise. Also almost $40 delivered.
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#6
I think that is as high as the XLC bars go. 100mm. depending on stem swap one could easily gain a couple more inches if desired. $40 seems high shipped. I get these off ebay for a pinch less than $20 US shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300951348187?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#7
No, no. The Electra bars have a 5" rise & are more expensive. The XLC are under $20 I think.
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