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Disc brake/ rear cassette?
#1
Hi, I need a little help guys. I have a 2009 Specialized Hardrock. It came with V-brakes and a 7 speed. I dont know what kind of cassette or freehub or whatever it has, but my question involves it. I bought an Avid BB7 brake kit and a set of disc brake wheels, but my wheels are for the regular 8/9 speed cassettes. What I need to know is if I can take the 7 speed assembly off my stock wheel and put it on the 8/9 speed wheel with a 4.5mm spacer. I tried to take it off, but my lock ring tool wont go all the way down so I have no clue how to get it off. It seems like its hitting the axle bolt or something. If I cant get this to work, I will just buy a 9 speed Sram drivetrain and put that on. Any advice is greatly apprecitated!

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#2
I think you should be able to put the 7 speed cassette on the new hub with a spacer in the back. I'm not sure how thick a spacer though. Looking at Sheldon Brown, I can't tell if you'd need a 1.5 or a 6.5 mm spacer. See: http://sheldonbrown.com/k7.html#spacing
There's also a little info on that page about removing the cassette. The tool doesn't need to go all the way in, just a couple mm to engage with the lockring.

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#3
Ok thanks for the info. If I can get it off I may try it. My lockring tool wont even go in 1mm. I watched an instructional video on this site and they said something about the bolt being too long an overhaul would have to be done, but I dont know what that means.

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#4
To fit the lock ring tool are you removing the quick release spindle first?<br />
Remove spindle - insert tool - refit spindle (without springs) to gently hold tool in place.<br />
Then, using chain whip, undo lock ring.<br />
The 7 speed spacer is only about 1/8" thick.<br />
The chances are the freehub / cassette is Shimano or Shram and are compatable with each other.

Ride hard or ride home alone!
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#5
That all will work, my casette tool doesn't go very far (only 1-2mm) and works fine, just try and grip the tool as low as possible to prevent it slipping.
In terms of the rear drive train SRAM and Shimano are compatable in all ways except one:<br />
Under no circumstances mix Rear Deralliers and Shifters between SRAM and Shimano. The cable is pulled at different ratios and this will cause the rear mech to self-destruct when you change gear. My friend did this and he's had to bodge his bike to a singlespeed until he can buy a new rear derallier.

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#6
Thanks for the help guys! I removed the QR spindle, but the tool still wont go far enough. I got irritated not knowing what to do with it so I just went ahead and ordered a sram 9 speed drivetrain so I can just put everything together and be done with it. The 2 extra gears should help me out on climbs and stuff so hopefully Ill be riding again next week. I went with Sram X9 derailleur, Avid speed dial 7 levers, PC 971 chain, X5 shifters ( will probably get X0 when and if these break) and a PG-970 cassette. Fork is next, but not for at least 5 or 6 months or more. Thanks again for all the help!

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#7
You still need to get the old cassette off ???
Have you got the correct tool?<br />
The tools to remove "freewheels" & "freehubs" look similar but won't swap.!

Ride hard or ride home alone!
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#8
I probably have the wrong tool then.... I went to sun and ski sports and told the guy what I had and what I needed and he sold me one. It has a guidepin and says shimano compatible. I dont think I need to get the old cassette off tho because I have a new wheelset that are made for a 8/9 speed and I am almost positive that the new cassette I ordered uses the tool I have. If not, I will run out to the local LBS and have them do it. BTW, what is the difference between the tools?

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#9
To look at both tools you would think they are the same.<br />
With mine the Freewheel tool just about engages but only by 1/2mm whereas the Cassette tool goes all the way in.
They both have similar castellation arrangements but the cassette tool bottom diameter is 0.3 mm smaller.
Cassette = http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=4&item=FR%2D5<br />
Freewheel = http://www.parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=4&item=FR%2D1
As you can see, from the above links, the cassette tool has more pronounced castellations as well.
P.S. There are also different types of freewheel tools as well if you study the Park Tool catalogue.

Ride hard or ride home alone!
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#10
Some shops just don't know what they're doing. I went to Halfords in the UK to get a freewheel tool a few months ago to replace my broken freewheel after watching Alex's tutorial. Got to the stage of inserting it only to find that what they'd actually sold me was a freewheel tool and thus didn't work, only a few guys know what they're doing (and that's because one of them is in my MTB group and he taught them how to do things properly)
blkss, you said you were going to replace your X5s with X0s when they brake. X5s take lots of abuse before they die. I have X7s and even in Wales (where if you have rubbish kit the bike lets you know in the most expensive way possible) they are unbeliveably good so X5s will be fine for almost anywhere (a few of my mates have been running X4s for years). There is no point replacing kit that's perfectly good for the job. As for the extra two gears, the 9-speed will simply give you a finer range than the 7-speed, so there isn't likely to be extra power in it. With MTB (i'm assuming that's what your doing with your Hardrock, I've got the 08 model and it's designed for trail rididng), unless the kit is actually holding you back (and you will really notice when that happens) then there's not point upgrading it as you won't really see the benefit.

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#11
I see what you saying. I have the cassette tool and I believe my wheel is a freewheel. No worries tho! With my new setup on the way, I should be good to go. Thanks again for the info as I definately learned something new!

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#12
A little late for this thread, but a good reference to file away for later. Some good pictures about 1/2 way down. Also some good pictures to help id whether you have a freewheel or a cassette.
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

Why is it that they make adult bikes that'll generally work for 5'9" or above, yet when you pedal these same bikes they only work for someone who is 5'4" or so?
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#13
JonB, thanks for the info on the X5's. As for the extra gears, I dont really expect more power, just a broader range. I just dont really like the huge jump from the lowest gear to the next in line. I just think the extra two combinations will help me on a couple of the steep climbs I usually dont make. If not, then I just need to keep working at it. Other than that, I use the bike for pretty much whatever I run into with the exception of huge drops and big jumps. As for upgrading, I have upgraditis with pretty much everything I own whether its the bike or my car. And, the high end parts I get can always be transferred to the next better bike I get.

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