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Crank turning with wheel
#1
I recently replaced my chain and now when I turn the wheel with my crank. the crank continues to turn with the wheel/hub when I let go.
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#2
single speed or not
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#3
(09-25-2011, 02:13 PM)painkiller Wrote:  single speed or not

its a cervelo p2sl
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#4
does this happen in all gears? when you slowly turn your wheel by hand does your crank move also?
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#5
(09-25-2011, 07:05 PM)painkiller Wrote:  does this happen in all gears? when you slowly turn your wheel by hand does your crank move also?

Yes it does. WHen I turn the crank by hand and let go it spins with the wheel. Or if I turn the wheel the crank will move with it.
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#6
Usually this effect is caused by a sticky freehub body (ratchet mech. on the rear wheel that holds the cassette) causing too much friction in the drive, in turn driving the crank instead of "free wheeling". Odd that it occurred when merely changing out the chain. If it is the chain that is causing this effect it might be happening for one of the following reasons:

1) Incompatible chain; eg. 9sp chain on a 10sp cassette (might occur if the chain is too wide for the cog spacing).

2) Cassette is worn by the old chain; the distance between the rollers on the new chain is shorter than the distance between the troughs of the most commonly used cogs.

In any case it's something that you want to address before the problem potentially worsens.
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#7
(10-23-2011, 08:52 PM)biciloco Wrote:  Usually this effect is caused by a sticky freehub body (ratchet mech. on the rear wheel that holds the cassette) causing too much friction in the drive, in turn driving the crank instead of "free wheeling". Odd that it occurred when merely changing out the chain. If it is the chain that is causing this effect it might be happening for one of the following reasons:

1) Incompatible chain; eg. 9sp chain on a 10sp cassette (might occur if the chain is too wide for the cog spacing).

2) Cassette is worn by the old chain; the distance between the rollers on the new chain is shorter than the distance between the troughs of the most commonly used cogs.

In any case it's something that you want to address before the problem potentially worsens.

Thanks, I did change out the cassette with a new one so I am going to check to see if I tightened it to much.
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#8
(10-23-2011, 09:29 PM)thansen10770 Wrote:  
(10-23-2011, 08:52 PM)biciloco Wrote:  Usually this effect is caused by a sticky freehub body (ratchet mech. on the rear wheel that holds the cassette) causing too much friction in the drive, in turn driving the crank instead of "free wheeling". Odd that it occurred when merely changing out the chain. If it is the chain that is causing this effect it might be happening for one of the following reasons:

1) Incompatible chain; eg. 9sp chain on a 10sp cassette (might occur if the chain is too wide for the cog spacing).

2) Cassette is worn by the old chain; the distance between the rollers on the new chain is shorter than the distance between the troughs of the most commonly used cogs.

In any case it's something that you want to address before the problem potentially worsens.

Thanks, I did change out the cassette with a new one so I am going to check to see if I tightened it to much.

It's pretty hard to do that - most freehubs/cassettes are designed to hold 40nm, however some are as low as 30nm - it's a lot of torque (about as tight as you would want to make a pedal). Usually the freehub or cassette lock ring will crack before enough force could be applied to cause the cog spacers to become over compressed to the point of affecting cog spacing. What kind of hub/wheel are you using?
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