Hi, Hello all, looking for some advice and direction on how to get out of the hole I'm in, thanks in advance for any assistance. In the process of rebuilding an old "Eddy Merckx" bike, all was going well until I met the Campagnolia Athenia bottom bracket. it was seized would not budge, so with brute force and a lot of stupidity I used all my strength and tore the splines off the drive side using the appointed tools of course, deciding to have a go at the other side was not a good decision as I have little or no splines left on the non drive side now. not easily phased I brought out my makitta drill which has left the bb not looking like a bb on the drive side. my hands are in the air at this stage and the drill is plugged out. I know its a bit late for this but am I turning this thing the right way? going with the drive, and where do I go next? I would consider myself handy enough when it comes to problem solving /repair but this is testing me so any help is appreciated.
Regards Con
Did you tried heating the BB with a blow torch??
Using a cheater bar on your BB removal tool??
Ye looks DOA. At this point you can drill lots of holes around the shaft (preferably with a drill press) and collapse the lock nuts.
OR you can try welding a bar to it after soaking it with liquid wrench or kroil overnight Than use heat and the welded on bar and hammer.
Be careful not to damage the threads, than replace with Shimano UN 54 or other. There are some threadless BB to if you damage the thread IIRC.
Perhaps a mechanic on this list will chime in.
Never Give Up!!!
We have done it gentlemen, bad bb gone, it took some more brute force, 76 prayers and yer support but the Mother is gone, so thanks, no lasting damage either. Have a good day Gentlemen and I hope ye are feeling as good as I am right now !
That's great. Good luck with your rebuild. Again suggest putting in a new sealed BB such as Shimano UN54.
How about providing some info on thread orientation and how you did it for future generations. :-))
Never Give Up!!!
And how did you manage to do it?
Well done! - it shows what determination and a little care can do. A shimano sealed unit will fit well. Use a LOT of Lithium grease on the threads.
Great job I like your home made tools and the hatchet job. :-))
Soaking is very critical, as is use of heat. Here is a test of penetrating oils I got once.
I always soak nuts a day before removal.
"Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Type of penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ................................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster .......................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this
one particular test. A local machinist group mixed up a batch and all now
use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as
good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price."
Never Give Up!!!
Yep, not too many places to get acetone anymore. Steal your wifes nail polish remover.:-)
Acetone also is a great final preassembly cleaner . Mostly engine work.
Vintage motorcycle mechanics I know working on rusty bikes like Kroil. Use in a ventilated space.
BUT home made is still great and cheap. I mixed some and keep it in a spray bottle. Shake well before use, as with all sprays.
Hey KC I got an old Craftsman vise, and also a large old vise I left at my brothers house. Will look up maker. That one is at least 50 years old.
PS in addition to a vise, c-clamps are very useful.
Never Give Up!!!
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