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Unable to remove non-drive side DMR V8 pedal
#1
Hey fellas,

Yep, as the title says really.

I managed to get the drive side one off without too much trouble using my 15mm pedal wrench.

But for some reason the non-drive side pedal simply won't come off.

I forced it with all the strengh on I could muster, literally, but it will only move slightly. It won't unscrew.

Problem is, the more I push it round bit by bit, the lower down the pedal wrench gets and now it's very very difficult to get enough leverage to be able to push down hard enough because the pedal wrench is pretty much level with the crank arm & very close to it.

I've tried WD40 with no joy, standing on the pedal wrench to try to use my bodyweight to do it, I've even removed the crankset and put the crank arm in a vice but that doesn't work because I simply can't tighten the vice enough on the crank arm to stop it from moving when I try to remove the pedal.

Any tips/suggestions would be most appreciated.

Thanks

Si
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#2
Si you know that it is backward threaded? So turn the opposite direction to take it off.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
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#3
(05-30-2011, 03:00 PM)Bill Wrote:  Si you know that it is backward threaded? So turn the opposite direction to take it off.

Yeah, I knew the pedals had different thread directions. You unscrew the non-drive side pedal clockwise though right? Tell me I've not been tightening it rather than loosening? Please Bill! Tell me!

; )
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#4
Put the other pedal back on, reasonably tight, and rest it against something immovable, a curb or a step. Now you can apply much more force to the other side!
Yes, it is left hand threaded and unscrews clockwise, but sometimes, slightly tightening it can break the corrosion grip, so you have to alternately tighten and loosen, plus WD40 or similar.
If this doesn't work, apply some heat to the crank arm only, about 2" or so from the thread, allow it to soak for a few minutes and keep the pedal axle cool with a wet rag. Can't do this though if plastic coated.
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#5
(05-31-2011, 04:59 AM)trevgbb Wrote:  Put the other pedal back on, reasonably tight, and rest it against something immovable, a kerb or a step. Now you can apply much more force to the other side!
Yes, it is left hand threaded and unscrews clockwise, but sometimes, slightly tightening it can break the corrosion grip, so you have to alternately tighten and loosen, plus WD40 or similar.
If this doesn't work, apply some heat to the crank arm only, about 2" or so from the thread, allow it to soak for a few minutes and keep the pedal axle cool with a wet rag. Can't do this though if plastic coated.

Thanks Trev, I'll try those tips when I next get chance.

By the way, you said about applying heat to the crank arm, do you mean pour some boiling water on it? Or apply a flame of some sort? And to keep the pedal axle cool, would I wrap a wet cloth around the whole pedal? Or just the centre part of the pedal? And finally, what is the purpose of doing this?

Cheers

Si
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#6
Heat causes the aluminum to expand and, therefore, loosen the pedal. Since the pedal is hardened steel it requires more heat before it starts to expand so the aluminum will expand before the spindle on the pedal. You want to be careful with this technique because if the crankarm has a metal insert that is the actual threaded part, many of these inserts are pressed in the aluminum. Overheating the aluminum can cause the insert to come loose and will then come out with the pedal since they are also harder metal than the aluminum. I don't know if your crank has a threaded insert, but if it does, just be careful on the amount of heat that you apply to the aluminum.

A small propane torch works well and you can adjust the heat that is emitted from the torch. It is better to use less heat (which takes a bit longer) than more heat, which can cause the overheating of the metal a lot faster and mess things up for you.
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe...Ride Hard...Ride Daily
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