Bearings caged? can I replace?

[unmanagedTN]

I have found a road bike that is nothing fancy but fits me as I am a male on the short end of the height scale.
Its a Roadmaster (*grin*) from 1982 that's it almost perfect shape with light surface rust and minor paint issues, with that said I have a front wheel bearing issue that I need to address.

When I got the bike yesterday I noticed that the bearings on the front tire where shot, but these are different then what I am used to seeing. They are in a metal ring and pushed up inside the hub and held on with a washer and thin nut along with the safety washer and the axle/ frame nut.

Can I replace a original bearings that were caged with just loose balls in the wheel? If so how many? Stick with the amount that's in the cage?

I am looking forward to hitting the Shelby Park Greenway here in Nashville for a good ride.

GavinG

[Bill]

I believe you will need one more in each side if you put loose ones in. I think there is 8?? with the cage and you will have to add one. Make sure you measure the size of the Ball bearing. Use Grade 25 stainless if possible.

[unmanagedTN]

(07-31-2012, 01:36 PM)Bill Wrote:  I believe you will need one more in each side if you put loose ones in. I think there is 8?? with the cage and you will have to add one. Make sure you measure the size of the Ball bearing. Use Grade 25 stainless if possible.

Thanks for the info... I will get my calipers out and measure the balls and get an average size... What grease do you recommend, axel, lithium, graphite?

[GeorgeET]

Just take the bearings to a bike shop they have a gauge. Usually 3/16 in wheels. You can get your bearings from them . Replace all. As per grease use waterproof marine wheel bearing grease, frequently used on boat trailers.

BTW its not your tire but the wheel that needs bearings.

[nfmisso]

+1 on boat trailer wheel bearing grease per George.

I do NOT agree with stainless steel bearing balls - 52100 bearing alloy are superior hardness and roundness to stainless steel. The grease will protect the ball from corrosion.

My qualification: I designed bearings for hard disk drives.

[RobAR]

(07-31-2012, 09:23 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  My qualification: I designed bearings for hard disk drives.

I can't keep a disk drive alive to save my life! Wrong grease??

[nfmisso]

(07-31-2012, 09:36 PM)RobAR Wrote:  

(07-31-2012, 09:23 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  My qualification: I designed bearings for hard disk drives.

I can't keep a disk drive alive to save my life! Wrong grease??

never power it down, it will last forever. All the wear occurs during starting and stopping.

[Bill]

Ok so that is a Carbon Steel alloy comparable to TBS-9. The only enemy it has is salt, water, etc., which is where the Marine Grease comes in to protect it. Definitely harder then stainless steel, and more expensive. Totally forgot about the Carbon Steel. STAY AWAY from ceramic ball bearings.
Again nigel I thank you for the correction.
Yea Rob you shouldn't use the copper grease with the magnetic properties .

[nfmisso]

(07-31-2012, 11:42 PM)Bill Wrote:  Ok so that is a Carbon Steel alloy comparable to TBS-9. The only enemy it has is salt, water, etc., which is where the Marine Grease comes in to protect it. Definitely harder then stainless steel, and more expensive. Totally forgot about the Carbon Steel. STAY AWAY from ceramic ball bearings.
Again nigel I thank you for the correction.
Yea Rob you shouldn't use the copper grease with the magnetic properties .

Yes: http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=d0b0a51bff894778a97f5b72e7317d85&ckck=1

Actually precision 52100 balls are cheaper to manufacture than the same precision 440C (stainless) balls because they are more dimensionally stable and the grain structure in finer (important during the grinding process).

Agree on the ceramic balls - any sort of stiffness advantage is overwelmed by the CTE mis-match. For professionals, this taken care of by thier bike mechanic adjusting the bearings at every opportunity.

[Joe_W]

Plus the OP (GavinG) should check the cups and cones for wear. While you can still get a couple of 1600 km (1000 miles ) out of damaged cups and cones you should probably do it right.

That said: Save some money and buy a nice pair of wheels sometime later, either custom built with mid-range cup and cone hubs (e.g. Shimano 105), 32 SS double butted spokes laced cross three + mid range rim or last year's DT / Mavic / Shimano / other brand set, though those will have (most likely) cartridge bearings that cannot be overhauled... actually custom built wheels are not that expensive.

[Bill]

That is one of the sites I have bookmarked for looking up different grades of steel. . Now lets give the "ole chap" a source to buy from. Some LBS don't carry these in stock at least the ones I am familiar with.
You go with an online site like ebay or amazon.

[nfmisso]

(08-01-2012, 10:47 AM)Bill Wrote:  That is one of the sites I have bookmarked for looking up different grades of steel. . Now lets give the "ole chap" a source to buy from. Some LBS don't carry these in stock at least the ones I am familiar with.
You go with an online site like ebay or amazon.

Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Campagnolo-Shimano-Bracket-Loose-Bearing/dp/B006PR7Y3I/

[GeorgeET]

Wow a hundred pack, that will do a few bikes. Sounds like a lifetime supply.

AS per Marine Grease being recommended for non SS bearings just to protect them from rust, Bill, NOT, its a good grease that seals well, lasts and protects the entire hub, axle cups etc, better IMO than some of the pricey bicycle greases. Maybe racers can get the .001% advantage from them not me.

I use it on my motorcycles too. Bel Rey Marine Grease is my favorite.