Specialized Stumpjumper

[waterbike]

So,

Here is my dilemma. I have Specialized Stumpjumper. It is red. The lettering is yellow. I don't know the year but it is definitely before 1999 that I have it from.

I bent the rear triangle in a couple of years back. I then laid of the bike for a few years, until recently when after just one tough uphill/downhill off terrain ride my rear wheel began to rub the inside of the triangle, and extremely weakened the bolt of my rear specialized quick release, which eventually became useless. So I replaced the quick release and now that I've picked up the bike again I see that this quick release quickly strips itself as well.

So, this is what I did was the following. I took a drill and ever so slightly tried to a drill out the rear "c" of the triangle in an attempt to align the wheel. This didn't really work and what happens is the chain manages to pull the wheel slightly forward on the chain side.

Is there anything I can do with this frame, which I loved over the years, or is it junk. Is there some crazy way i can repair it, augment it, or other, OR do I have to throw it in the garbage.

Thanks,
Bill

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[waterbike]

What I thought was to strap the wheel with those hook type things that older bikes had. It was a flat metal thing that screwed on and held the wheel back?

[DaveM]

So, is it that the frame is bent -> so the wheel doesn't go into the drop outs all the way? If you're trying to clamp down the QR and it is hanging half off the drop out, I don't know you can do much about that. A good QR skewer is pretty tough. What part of it is getting damaged?

You could maybe switch to a solid rear axle with bolts. Those do tighten down more than a QR. But if the frame is so far off that they won't clamp in the right spot, you might still have trouble.

[waterbike]

Yes the frame is bent. When I clamp down the QR everything stays in place. It is after some riding that it starts to slip away.
The QR threads get cant handle the pressure it seems and get striped.

It sounds like a solid rear axle is the best. What size tool will I need to remove and change the QR?

Thanks.

[DaveM]

Strange. Maybe you are over tightening the QR and once the threads give out that causes the wheel to slip (rather than the other way around). Are these steel QR skewers or some light weight ones?

To change to a solid axle, you would need a full new axle set (with the cones, locknuts, etc.) You would need the tool to remove your freewheel/cassette and a thin cone wrench to fit the bearing race on the axle. I'd change the ball bearings at the same time since you'd be doing all the work and they're cheap.

It's not a major job, but you should probably review the hub overhaul video on the site to get an idea of what is involved.

[awmeat]

It sounds more likely that your dropouts on the rear triangle are bent. The dropouts are "C" you are referring to that you drilled out. I'd suggest you take it to a bike shop and if the frame is steel (or Chro-Moly) then they can probably have them bend it back into alignment. Although, having drilled it out as you said, you might be hosed at this point.