Falcon Freewheel 6spd

[Bill]

Here is a good question for everyone/anyone to answer! Ok I have a Falcon 6spd Freewheel that I can not remove. I have EVERY Park FR-x tool they make and none fit. This is a freewheel because because I figure I would remove the first sprocket not the answer either. Sooo I can tell you this, the hole where a removal tool would go has 12 splines and is 19.5mm spline to spline inside diameter. 20 - 20.5mm valley to valley inside diameter. There is also 3.25mm spacing between each sprocket (gear or cog). Here is a couple of pictures .....
P.S. The first cog is NOT there so you will see only five cogs.

[cyclerUK]

Bill,
I presume you've checked out the Park Tool website?
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=48

[trevgbb]

Looks like a standard spline to me, when you say the tool wont fit, do you mean it wont go in?
It looks as though your axle is bent, reducing the clearance for the tool on one side, try removing the axle and trying again.

[Billy]

Bill, is the shiny part I've circled just a cleaner area or is something wedged in there?

[attachment=1031]

[Bill]

Well after doing some looking around and all I opened my email and Calvin from Park gave me this link and said that Falcon was not consistent on sizes and that this particular one is an older style of Freewheel. This is the tool I have to order http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?id=2305343509&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Cassette-and-Freewheel&tc=Freewheel-Removers-Splined&item_id=BR-CT4 . As far as the above picture Billy I looked and dug that out which was nothing but gunk. The axle was not bent it is the appearance of the pics which was the best I could do, should have taken the axle out though. Cycler I was all over the site which prompted me to maybe email them. So here is a new addition to our ever growing knowledge . Thanks everyone really appreciate the help.

<b>By the way</b> this is off of this bike http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-1208.html

[trevgbb]

Did you get it off yet?

If you can't find a tool and you don't want to re-use the fw, brute force is your answer.
remove the outer plate, the one that bears the name "Falcon" by tapping it around using a small punch in the holes you can see, and a hammer, everything will fall apart and you will be left with the body on the hub, now you can use a hammer and chisel in the pawl sockets to hammer it off, left hand thread, remember, heat and or rust releaser will also help.

But if it's a very cheap hub, and it is, you may also damage this if you get too heavy handed.

[Bill]

Ok to put it simple the Bicycle Research CT-4 (known as BR-CT4, or TL2022) is successful! Kinda upset of its design as it is really poor!!! The spline cuts on it need to be deeper machine cut. The inside of it also could be of a thinner wall design to allow it to slide over the axle nut and race nut inside. The proper way to remove this kind of freewheel is to take off all the non drive nuts and race nut and remove the loose bearings from that side. Now slide the axle as far as it will go toward the freewheel side. Then take a hammer and keep tapping until the axle comes out. The race nut has an aluminum flange that will pop off of it. No worries you will not harm it. After you get the axle out completely take the CT-4 and insert it firmly (as far as it will go inside the spline hole. Take a good crescent wrench (adjustable wrench) and put it firmly on the CT-4. At an angle push down on the adjustable wrench where it is on the CT-4 and turn COUNTER CLOCKWISE. With quite a bit of force it should turn off the freewheel. There is also the vise method. This was one of the most hardest freewheels I have removed yet to this day. Sure there will be more. I will try to do a short video in the near future.

Thanks to all who helped,
Bill

P.S. The freewheel remover can be found on the 'bay (ebay) and few select places on the internet. Amazon doesn't have it that I know of.

[trevgbb]

Whoops, spot the deliberate? mistake in my last post.
Reference to left hand thread should be to the plate and not the body, sorry.

[Bill]

(06-23-2010, 03:18 AM)trevgbb Wrote:  Whoops, spot the deliberate? mistake in my last post.
Reference to left hand thread should be to the plate and not the body, sorry.

Oh I wasn't correcting ya trev. Reason I capitalized the counter clockwise is because I made that mistake and realized Ahh man it goes the other way hahaha. I see what you mean though. Yes it is an option though.

[Billy]

Good job, Bill. I'm not sure that I could have resisted using the hammer and chisel method.

[Bill]

I wanted to make a correction to my instructions as above stated this line
<b>The race nut has an aluminum flange that will pop off of it. No worries you will not harm it.</b>

to..
<b><i>The race nut has an aluminum flange that will pop off of it. THE RACE NUT WILL HAVE TO BE REPLACED! To get one just take the race nut and flange to a Local Bike Shop and they should have one. </b></i>

That's all,
Bill