GT Triple Triangle? Part. 2

[Bill]

Lol ok I sure will . Just wanted to say these rims look really nice!!!!

[Bill]

(09-11-2012, 01:23 PM)Bill Wrote:  Lol ok I sure will . Just wanted to say these rims look really nice!!!!

Ok I ran the calculations through Spoke Calc xcel sheet and the length is like 264.7mm. But as it was stated 264mm will be just fine .

[Bill]

Oh boy spokes are in! All are the correct sizes, 262mm,263mm, and 264mm. Crazy shipping method but worked good. Now for the assembly fun!!! Oh crap, am I gonna need the wheelsmith spoke prep? Orange or blue or both?

P.S. The shipping method: they were wrapped in saran wrap... hope this guys wife doesn't need to cover anything in the kitchen lol.

[nfmisso]

saran wrap works well

I lubricate the hub end of the spoke with tri-flo (little cup, and dip the elbow in it), and submerge the nipples before installation.

I use only nickel plated brass nipples, and high spoke tension.

I do not use spoke prep or similar; nor thread locker.

My way works for me; other people have different methods that work for them. Get lots of opinions, then decide.

No matter what, make sure you have a spoke wrench that fits the nipples well; no slop.

[Painkiller]

Bill it is the same stuff, two colors for the rear wheel. one length spoke one color the other length spoke the other color. takes away confusion on the side that the spoke goes on , in case you trip out.
not a must so its up to you.
Take your time and all will be well.

as Nigel suggests, tri-flow, even motor oil will suffice. a little dip will doo ya

[Bill]

Ok yesterday evening I dedicated approximately 4 hours to building my first front wheel. Long process To say in the least lol. Taking into consideration the practice wheel I did and method from a video on youtube versus Roger Musson's book I must say Roger's is far easier and simple. To be fair we have to remember that it was the front wheel as well. The only problem I had was not screwing on the nipple far enough because 4 of them popped off at different intervals while lacing. Easy fix though, just go over and screw on nipples a couple more threads. I used triflow on all the spoke elbows and threads which made life easy. Lacing I was told was one of the hardest parts which I thought was one of the easier parts lol. Checked the dishing and lateral alignment as the first tensioning was performed, which needs to be checked through out the entire process randomly. The last step and currently where I left off was the first tension point truing point. I have to relieve the stress yet and re true the wheel. The wheel at this point is almost perfectly true. I used Park Tools TM1 and the plucking method! Both were effective. Reason for both? Why not, best to be sure. The Park TM1 I set the spokes at the 21 kilograms force which is 77 newtons. Don't asked about the math not too sure. Can be found here.. http://www.parktool.com/product/spoke-tension-meter-tm-1 . I took a couple pics too....

[Painkiller]

keep'em coming Bill, nice looking rims too

[RobAR]

Wow guys - I think Bill has 'the fever'. I remember the days that I spent watching for that brown truck to deliver my spokes. Seemed like it took f o r e v e e r r r.

Anywhoo - looking Good, Bill. I especially like how you modded a trainer for use in truing the wheel! Very ingenuitive!

[Bill]

Thank you ! Only thing I am worried about is that I get the stress relieve part down. This is supposed to be performed as needed? So that means until all the creaking and noises are gone?

[RobAR]

Bill. From what I have read of your new adventure and the point that I assume you are at - the biggest thing right now is to ensure that the heads of the spokes are fully bedded at the hub. I use a brass punch and a 4 ounce hammer. Tap lightly.
I learned 18 years ago that the Spoke Squeezing was more for the benefit of the crosses and nipple interface at the rim. If the spoke head, at the bend, isn't fully seated in the hub flange, you will just wind up creating more work for yourself as the wheel comes to higher tension and they seat themselves. See?

To expound a bit on the good advice given by nfmisso - SpokePrep (WheelSmith) and Thread Locker (LocTite) are two entirely different products and are intended for different purposes.
The red stuff in a little $30 bottle from LocTite needs to have a medium (oil - I recommend Tri Flow) to follow down into the nipple thread after the wheel is brought to true. Thus the oiling of threads prior to the build. Thread Locker is then used at the end of the build to keep the bond at that point. Just a tiny drop at each nipple... you will see it sucked in by capillary action. Spin the wheel for a couple of minutes afterwards to get all of it in there by centrifugual force.

SpokePrep comes in Blue and Orange in a kit and is what it is called. The different colors are an aid to lacing wheels (rear) where diff spoke lengths are required.
Did you ever see a bolt with a blue LocTite dried on its threads? Same principle. It 'sets' after the build but lubricates during the build. I wouldn't be caught without the stuff!

[Bill]

Yes I have seen the locktite in different colors and that makes sense! Its too late for the spokeprep as I just finished lacing the back wheel! PERFECT SIZE on the spokes! Now the tension stress relief and truing part is up! Hopefully I can complete it tonight, so that will make both wheels I'll have done. All I am waiting on is the tires and tubes. Tires are Kenda K841a with K-shield 26x1.95. More updates later back to hobby (work) lol.

[Bill]

The rear wheel is completed, there was a minor dishing problem to which was easily corrected.
The next problem I have to compensate for is the rim is narrower than the original the u-brake will not engage. A couple spacers in the right places will take care of that. The rear brakes are less used then the front ones anyways. Although they are used at times.
The only things left is:
Cables:
- Shifters
- Brakes
Alignment:
- Both FD/RD
- Brakes
Chain:
- Install
- Size it up
Other:
Grips
Bar ends
Tires installed
Some other minor things.

[Bill]

Last night I completed the GT Outpost All Terra HYBRID! Before I post the results and pics of the finished product, lol, I am going to share some bads. After I got the front and rear built with the new tires halfway on I attempted to put in the schrader type tube and found that the valve stem would not fit! Immediately I was VERY UPSET knowing that Niagra Cycles sent me rims drilled for Presta Type tubes!!! 10:00pm at night I went to the local Walmart and had to settle for Bell self seal presta valve type tubes . Anyways after reading benefits of the OVERPRICED valve stem I did not "seam" to mind.
In the company's defense I will state that there was no description on the page of what you will get. However there should be!!! Next, is I ordered (not from Niagra) brake pads for the front cantilever style brakes and the ones I got are hard as wood! They won't get very good feedback for selling crap. BTW the U-Brakes DO engage without using spacers, it was my angle of looking them. . Some jerk did not tighten the quill stem enough causing the forks go one way and the handle bars to stay straight, OH WAIT I'm the jerk lmao . Other then that no more whines.
Now later today I will post some pictures as I am out of time. So until then wander.

[nfmisso]

Bill - if you really want Schraeder valve, just drill out the rim. It is 8mm for Schraeder, 6mm for Presta. If you don't have metric drills, a 5/16" with a bit of clean up works fine.

[Painkiller]

Oh Bill you are killing me ! This worse than commercials after every song during "The Voice".

[Bill]

Never thought of that. Maybe down the road I will convert them over to Schrader type valve. However for now I think will keep it with Presta Valve as there are some more benefits over Schrader. Not going to get into debate over that as it is a personal view and opinion .
Now as I promised I am currently resizing the pics lol...

[Bill]

Here is the improved GT Outpost All-terra HYBRID....

---

Part 2 of pics ......

[Bill]

Now to talk about the cool things!!! The wheels seem like they just glide on and on while on a coast . There were no "pinging singing" spokes, woot means stress free. Tires are impressive to the terrain wet grass, gravel/dirt, and holds to the pavement AWESOME! Handles like pin point steering should, too accurate if you asked me lol. The braking is actually still something that needs a small adjustment. Yup and as I said NEW PADS for cantilever. Was concerned that the brake levers would not work for the U-brake or the cantilever arms because they look more for long lever types, theory proven wrong they worked on my hunch! Now the shifting is absolutely smooth as Triflow lube on a hot day lol. The smallest ring (26t) shifts to all 7 gears, the middle (36t) shifts to all 7 gears, and the BIG DADDY (warp drive) 52t shifts to all 7 gears (ALTHOUGH it is not good for the chainline)!!
Now gonna let yall in on a manufacturer stating that the M550 Deore LX rear derailler states it was not made for anything under a 12T cog, mine is 11 and works great . Another little secret the M550 front derailler was intended for a double NOT triple as I was told, it works great. The adjusting is a MAJOR FACTOR in the proper shifter and fine tuning had to be performed which took me 2hrs total. The HG-70 shimano chain I made one extra link longer due the irratic gearing . There is NO chain slop/slope/slack at all. Here is a list of parts that I used for upgrading....
Headset: Same Tange caged bearing
Handle bars/stem/quill: Zoom
Extension end bars: Zoom I think
Cantilever Brakes: Diacompe came with bike
Ubrakes: Rockwerks
Seat: Well ok Mongoose (took it off the XR-200 before I sold it lol)
Seat post: original
Chain: Shimano HG-70 Hyperglide
Tires: Kenda K841A With K-Sheild Wire Bead Bicycle Tire, Blackwall, 26-Inch x 1.95-Inch
Tubes: Bell Platinum Self Sealing Presta valve
Wheelset: CUSTOM BUILT BY ME .
- Spokes: Wheelsmith stainless
- Nipples: Brass Wheelsmith
- Rims: Alex Adventurer Presta drilled
- Front Hub: Deore LX HB-M550 (100mm)
- Rear Hub: Deore LX FH-M550 (135mm)
Shifter/Brake Lever Set : Deore LX Rapidfire 2 or plus (Not Sure for fun Ill say M550 )
Cables: Bell Universal cable kit
Bottom Bracket: Powerpro 68mm x 122.5mm
Freehub: Shimano Hyperglide
Cassette: Shimano Hyperglide CS-HG41 11-28T
Crankset - Shimano M550 (175mm)
- Rings Shimano 26t (small), 36t (middle), 52t (large)
Pedals - Shimano Alloy?

Thats all I can think of for now. OH YES... speed is well FAST!!!!! Everything turned out a total SUCCESS! I wish to thanks and I think "WE" did a great job building this bike!!! Everyone who put in an opinion was VERY VERY helpful!!! Some of the technical stuff I could've found on my own, but this was an awesome Group project! Thanks to painkiller, Robar, Nigel, xerxes, Joe_w, Alex, and DaveM for all your help and expert advice to make this happen!

[Painkiller]

Wow Bill, coming right along and looking good ! Hard to believe its the same bike. Quite the gear ratio too. that new rear brake looks pretty good. If you are missing the Zoom stem plug I know a guy on Ebay that might have one left but it will hurt a bit $ wise.
I bet she rides like a dream and gets up and goes. I call it mountain born and street bred.

[Bill]

Thank you very much . Ok let me have link . Not the first time a Mtb was changed into a Street Predator lmao! I just can't wait to find this one guy who always blew by me and laughed/snickered. Well he'll be in for a little surprise now! .