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Paglioli mid '40s cambio corsa bike
#1
After many years of debate, and many bikes passed on (whether due to price or location), I have finally taken the plunge and obtained a bike with a Campagnolo Cambio Corsa rear shifting system with the "sliding" rear hub design. This is by far my most reviled designs as far as actual shifting goes, but one of my most loved related to style and overall simplicity. Whoever managed to win or finish a race high in the standings deserves much respect and it exemplifies how strong of a rider they were. This will be a first and last cambio corsa bike unless someone wants to trade something in better condition and/or with more original parts.

There were a few back-pedalling rear mechs back in the day: late '20s-'30s Vittoria/Margherita; '30s Oscar Egg/Super Champion (early version), and I think Simplex came out with one in the early 30s similar to what is on my Baggi, but with the striker fork on top. The cambio corsa came out around 1933 under a different name (cambio bacchetta). I am not sure if it got much play back then, and I cannot recall seeing one on a 1930s bike. The cambio corsa name is from circa 1945 or later and it was being used and winning some races in the 40s; most notably Gina Bartali's 1948 Tour de France win. Another single rod version (une leve) was introduced later ('49?) with Fausto Coppi winning the 1950 Paris-Roubaix; and then named the "Paris-Roubaix" system. Both of these back-pedalling designs were amazingly still being produced as of the 1953 Campy catalog even though a few years earlier Campy had introduced the superb (for its time) Gran Sport chromed bronze knuckled parallelogram design derailleur which became the basic model for their rear mechs (nearly unchanged except for materials and looks) until the mid-80s. I believe that there were still so many "cambio corsa" frames made previously that some of Campy's top business partners requested that it remain available to relieve the glut of extra frames from years before since it was obsolete 5-10 years earlier with Simplex dominating that market until the Gran Sport was introduced ('50?). One good feature other than simplicity that makes this a good choice is the fact that there is no flimsy cage or mechanism that can be kicked and easily bent by an unscrupulous competitor knocking things out of whack which was a common practice during those days.

So I found this small salon brand Paglioli bike in Modena Italy, and were it not for a friend (Sergio) who finds me neat bike stuff (more on that later) and lived only a couple Km's from this bike's location, I would never have gotten it. Shipping is insane and I tried for 2 months to find a reasonable means to ship it, but the seller said the box was too big to ship Poste Italiane which provides a very reasonable rate for shipping larger boxes. Little did I know that the seller had it packed in a box with the rear wheel still attached to the frame making it a lot longer than it needed to be, and also leaving the saddle/post in the seat tube adding a fair amount of height to boot. Costs were running $750-$1200 for the shipping making it unfeasible given the cost of the bike itself. I had my friend survey the situation and found that it could be shipped in two much smaller boxes at 60 euros each so the deal was on again. The seller was quite old and was not comfortable using paypal or similar means of payment which created another problem and added extra fees to do a bank to bank transfer. Long story short: paypal the money to Sergio for a $5 fee and have him hand deliver the cash, while at the same time picking up the bike. Bike is now in transit; the first time it has left its hometown since it was also built in Modena. Sergio also provided a very hard to find head badge which is missing. The cheap pedals are being left in Italy; I feel no need to pay for the extra weight that they would add. The pump was spec'd by the seller as original, but it is obviously a 70s-80s Silca frame pump so although okay for use, it will be removed for authenticity purposes; and the crankset is of later manufacture. Other than that it appears to be original. I will be able to better date it from looking at some features, but I would guess 1948-1951 give or take. Universal brakeset; probably Mod. 39. It is missing the spoke guard which is important, but easily taken care of with many possible replacements (not Campy); Campy original goes for $100-$200, other brands $20 or so.

   
   
I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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#2
Do you get these refinished with new paint?

How much does that run you?
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#3
probably what I miss the most are quality head badges, very nice
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#4
(03-24-2022, 01:45 AM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote:  Do you get these refinished with new paint?

How much does that run you?

If you are referring to the head badge; I really have no idea since I've never done it. I have touched up some badges with nail polish or enamel spray paint applied with an artist's brush. Some old badges had a porcelain enamel which would chip off if abused. At this point I have no idea as to the actual color scheme, or if it even had any. The only color on it is a little corrosion.

As far as the frame is concerned, if you have a professional complete strip down and single color repaint (not powder coat) with a clear coat applied it generally costs about $250 on the cheap end, and up to $400 for a high quality job. Basic striping and/or color contrasting lugs runs the price up another $100-$200 or so depending how much work is entailed. Some of those fancy 80s and 90s paint jobs would cost $1000-$2000 or more to restore; there is a reason why many of those frames alone cost $2000 to $3000 when purchased new (paint on this bike is a good example: https://forums.bikeride.com/thread-6775.html?highlight=colnago+mexico). A good reason to find a nicely preserved example which requires little. It wasn't cheap for the manufacturers either; custom paintwork was done outside the factory by renowned paint shops. The Chesini Gran Premio I still have was a custom paint job; fairly simple, but probably $600-$800 to duplicate. I already know that the frame will sell for $500 (I've had offers already) alone due to the quality custom paint job. Since I doubt I would come across any reproduction decals I doubt that I would pursue that option. I could have the decals masked-off, but it would look odd with old decals and a new paint job. Plus the cost would not be any less, and possibly more. Another option if I can find color matching paint is to touch it up, but it would appear (I don't have the bike in hand yet) that it would need a substantial amount of paint, and again it would look odd with a bunch of new touch paint surrounded by old paint. Last option is to leave it alone (probably the best option, and my go to in most cases) since the actual value on a very old bike lies in its original livery and many frown (that would be me!) on trying to restore an old bike where there are few examples existing regardless of aesthetics. My 1936 Baggi has a hand painted down tube logo; not a good idea to mess with it at all! I will certainly arrest any rust on the frame and possibly do a "patina touch-up" in those areas which will still maintain an old weathered look while protecting from further corrosion. If this was an 80s or newer bike (but not rare) in that condition I'd go the paint job route decals or not.

Bike frames cost more to paint than a motorcycle frame due to it being the center of attention, whereas motorcycle frames are for the most part obscured by components, fairings, motor, etc. I could get a bare motorcycle frame painted for under $200 no problem (most are black or silver).

(03-24-2022, 06:05 AM)Painkiller Wrote:  probably what I miss the most are quality head badges, very nice

Some companies (e.g. Fondriest) seem to be bringing them back. They certainly are somewhat of a lost art both in design and advertising. One of the best bikes I saw had the head badge and a seat tube badge; Capo, very sharp (https://bikerecyclery.com/1960-capo-sieger-30th-anniversary-bicycle-original-parts-1940s-brooks-b17-ambrosio-adjustable-stem-record-open-c-shifters-56cm-beyond-rare/). I do like Chesini's (and some others) method of engraving the badge into the head tube; no worries about losing it or wearing off like a decal.
I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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#5
Why the back pedalling to change gears? That would be a pain in the butt when going uphill with the loss of speed incurred. How does it tension the chain without an idler pulley? I have never seen one of these systems. I assume they are not found on many bikes of that era. Was this strictly designed for pro riders, or was it installed on complete bikes for the general public?
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#6
Here is a rather humorous and yet apt description of its operation as stated on the "Disraeli Gears" website:

"First you drop out of the peloton so that you do not cause a catastrophic pile-up.
Then you twist the top lever. This slackens off your rear quick release.
Then you fiddle around with the lower lever while back pedalling in a hopeful attempt to force the chain onto the other of two sprockets that you have on your hub.
Then you pedal gently forward to 'position' the rear wheel.
Then you twist the top lever back to its original position to relock the quick release.
Then you sprint like crazy to try to get back onto the rear-most wheel of the peloton."

You must back-pedal due to the striker fork being on the front topside of the freewheel since the chain is exiting and will not properly shift cogs. Think of trying to shift gear on your front derailleur while pedalling backwards; it doesn't work very well.
The chain is tensioned due to you releasing the hub in the drop-outs (yes, sounds scary!) which allows the wheel axle to be pulled forward (when shifting to a larger cog), or slide backwards (when shifting to a smaller cog). The drop-outs have teeth on them, and the axle ends are geared which allows it to evenly (one would hope) move forwards or backwards while maintaining the wheel centered to the frame. The biggest problem is that the frame needs to be perfectly aligned regarding the drop-outs when they are built, and the drop-outs have to be perfectly matched to each other where the teeth are cut. Either one, or the combination of both, if not correct will cause your wheel to be misaligned to the frame causing obvious problems for both the rider and wear and tear on the tire and hub.
I have no idea if they ever installed these systems on "sport" racer type bikes. They were being used on touring bikes though so one could assume it was a possible option or stock component on many bikes; of course they needed those special drop-outs which may have kept them from being on lower end bikes due to the extra care required in the frame building process. I really don't know though. There were two versions of these 2 lever systems; one having longer rods or levers (handle section?) than the other. I really don't know how to tell unless I was shown them side by side. Not shown in the Campy catalogues that I have so one was either very short lived or just not popular enough to publish.
There is a chance of getting your fingers caught in the spokes if not being careful. I always thought there should be some sort of skirt, guard, or guide plate you could slide your hand along to avoid that possibility; something I may custom design for my bike just to be safer.
I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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#7
Another note about the "cambio corsa" system that was odd is the fact that in the late 30s there were already rear mechs capable of shifting a 5 speed cluster. Campy started with a 3 speed system then increased to 4 speed some time in the mid 40s; but never got increased to the capacity of handling a 5 speed so it was obsolete regarding gear capacity for nearly 15 years. The Gran Sport was introduced in the very early 50s and essentially made it obsolete within Campy's own catalog, but I think there were already a bunch of those unique drop-outs still being used for frames so Campy kept marketing the system.
I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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#8
After waiting nearly 7 months the Paglioli has arrived.
Bike had been nearly completely dismantled for shipping and everything was wrapped separately, and it has taken some time to get everything opened up.
A mix of OE and replacement parts other than one Universal brake caliper, Universal brake levers headset, Campy hubs and rod shifters.
Other parts are 70s-80s: 3t bar and stem, Sugino BB and cranks, Ambrosio (3t era) rims, unbranded leather racing saddle.


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I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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#9
Hubs are Campagnolo branded, but F. B. (Fratelli Brivio) made 2 piece unit with steel barrel and alloy flanges for Campy early on. Campy started making these in their own factory circa 1952.

   

Universal patent 361666 Mod. 39 caliper was used through the 40s and early 50s.

   
I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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