Help with headset preload

[Weastcoast99]

First time adjusting a headset and I'd like to get it right. Brand new giant reign with a carbon frame, that I do not want to damage

I finally have the preload set to where there is no play but I'm concerned that it is to tight...


Stage 1- obvious play/clunk

Stage 2- no clunk, but if I lock up the brake and push and pull hard, I can feel some very slight movement

Stage 3 - no play or movement detected

The difference between stage 2 and 3 is around a quarter turn.

However stage 2 is already quite snug and a quarter turn makes it pretty tight.

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

You need 3mm peeking down from the stem to top cap.

If you don't secure this exact measure you're going to have a bad time.

It's not as easy to just torque it down more when you have carbon components to worry about.

[Herryy]

There are two common types of bike headsets used by manufacturers for bicycles: the threaded and threadless headsets. A threaded headset is also beneficial for road bike riders who wish to achieve comfort while sporting an upright cycling position when cycling, but the replacement of parts, such as forks and stem tubes, is expensive due to their limited market availability.

[Herryy]

if you wondering between threaded and threadless headsetsthreaded and threadless headsets, I can recommend some small tips for you. Pro MTB riders prefer threadless headsets because of their contemporary design, practicality, and market accessibility. But threaded headsets are the best option if you want more precise handling adjustments and bikes with a vintage aesthetic.

[ReapThaWhirlwind]

Threaded headsets will add weight though, which isn't very favorable.

It requires a quill stem (which is usually steel)

[Sybian]

(01-28-2023, 03:52 AM)ReapThaWhirlwind Wrote:  Threaded headsets will add weight though, which isn't very favorable.

It requires a quill stem (which is usually steel)

Quill stems are NOT usually steel (unless you ride cheap bikes).. They are aluminum (and Ti) on any worthwhile racing and touring bike; cheap bikes use steel for lower cost. You can easily lighten them up with aluminum or Ti hardware. Even then there are some very high performance steel stems and bars. Often still used by track racers. I don't know or really care what mtb's are using since weight is not much of a factor when you are already sporting a heavy suspension system. Even then, my Cannondale mtb has an original aluminum quill stem from over 30 years ago.
With few exceptions, I feel that threadless stems are just ugly looking.

[Talha]

(09-10-2021, 04:56 PM)Weastcoast99 Wrote:  First time adjusting a headset and I'd like to get it right. Brand new giant reign with a carbon frame, that I do not want to damage

I finally have the preload set to where there is no play but I'm concerned that it is to tight...


Stage 1- obvious play/clunk

Stage 2- no clunk, but if I lock up the brake and push and pull hard, I can feel some very slight movement

Stage 3 - no play or movement detected

The difference between stage 2 and 3 is around a quarter turn.

However stage 2 is already quite snug and a quarter turn makes it pretty tight.

On stage 3, if you feel you've overtightened, this means you'll be damaging the bearings. Try with your stem bolts, maybe they are just slightly loose and mistaken for the play in the headset.