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Frozen bottom bracket on Katmando?
#1
Has anyone tries the bolt and locknut method for removing the left side bottom bracket bearing race cup. hope I got that right? i was able to remove the right side. the bracket is the spline wrench type like a free wheel but the tool fits in only 1/8 of a inch. 

...... method is to get a 2" bolt, 5/8th diameter, and about 14 lock washers, a large flat washer and a nut to fit the bolt. then you put the bolt with all the lock washer slid onto it and insert it through the right side of the bottom bracket and out the middle of the left frozen bearing race cup I want to remove. them you put the flat washer on, then the bolt on ghe other side and tighten it up. Then you get a 1/2 ratchet and socket to fit the bolt and keep tightning the bolt until the race cup brakes loose. 

does this make any sense? or have  got it even right?
"Where ever we go, there we are"
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#2
Picture please of what you have left to remove.

The spline type removal tool for BB typically only go in an 1/8" or so.....

I have a Park BBT-32 http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-32 and a deeper one that fits in a 3/8 ratchet.  On tough cases, the BBT-32 is the best, I clamp it in with washers, and get out my big 32mm wrench, a couple hundred pounds force at 15" radius (~250 ft-lbs) takes care of every problem so far.

I think that the method you described should work, double and triple check the threading direction.  Be prepared for the lock washers to explode into two 'C' shaped pieces and exit radially at high velocity.  Once you have the split washers all compressed, you may need something a LOT bigger than a 1/2" ratchet.  Harbor Freight has good pricing on 1/2" breaker bars, which conveniently fit inside the 1.5" sch 40 galvanized pipe sections I have - with 3ft of pipe, I can exert well over 600 ft-lbs.

Again, be prepared for exploding split washers.

Wear safety glasses, gloves, thick clothes.  
Nigel
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#3
(05-11-2015, 12:30 AM)nfmisso Wrote:  Picture please of what you have left to remove.

The spline type removal tool for BB typically only go in an 1/8" or so.....

I have a Park BBT-32 http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-32 and a deeper one that fits in a 3/8 ratchet.  On tough cases, the BBT-32 is the best, I clamp it in with washers, and get out my big 32mm wrench, a couple hundred pounds force at 15" radius (~250 ft-lbs) takes care of every problem so far.

I think that the method you described should work, double and triple check the threading direction.  Be prepared for the lock washers to explode into two 'C' shaped pieces and exit radially at high velocity.  Once you have the split washers all compressed, you may need something a LOT bigger than a 1/2" ratchet.  Harbor Freight has good pricing on 1/2" breaker bars, which conveniently fit inside the 1.5" sch 40 galvanized pipe sections I have - with 3ft of pipe, I can exert well over 600 ft-lbs.

Again, be prepared for exploding split washers.

Wear safety glasses, gloves, thick clothes.  

Thanks for the reply Nigel. I will give it a try, for curiosity sake, and to save this frame.  I have a good botton bracket off another Norco that I can fit in there; if this works? I'll try and get a pic up later today.
"Where ever we go, there we are"
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#4
Exclamation 
(05-11-2015, 12:30 AM)nfmisso Wrote:  Picture please of what you have left to remove.

The spline type removal tool for BB typically only go in an 1/8" or so.....

I have a Park BBT-32 http://www.parktool.com/product/bottom-bracket-tool-bbt-32 and a deeper one that fits in a 3/8 ratchet.  On tough cases, the BBT-32 is the best, I clamp it in with washers, and get out my big 32mm wrench, a couple hundred pounds force at 15" radius (~250 ft-lbs) takes care of every problem so far.

I think that the method you described should work, double and triple check the threading direction.  Be prepared for the lock washers to explode into two 'C' shaped pieces and exit radially at high velocity.  Once you have the split washers all compressed, you may need something a LOT bigger than a 1/2" ratchet.  Harbor Freight has good pricing on 1/2" breaker bars, which conveniently fit inside the 1.5" sch 40 galvanized pipe sections I have - with 3ft of pipe, I can exert well over 600 ft-lbs.

Again, be prepared for exploding split washers.

Wear safety glasses, gloves, thick clothes. [Image: peu_20150511_1562.jpg_zpsmt4x1yd5.png~original][/URL]p
URL=http://smg.photobucket.com/user/bmac5/media/Mobile%20Uploads/peu_20150511_1562.jpg_zpsmt4x1yd5.png.html][Image: peu_20150511_1562.jpg_zpsmt4x1yd5.png~original][/URL]
[Image: peu_20150511_1561.jpg_zpsuri9hrjl.png~original]
"Where ever we go, there we are"
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#5
looks like a torn up cartridge style elmore, is it plastic or metal

If it is plastic, punch out the flat ring in the center, then hit it with a heat gun to soften the plastic and pic an pry the rest out.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#6
(05-11-2015, 09:03 PM)painkiller Wrote:  looks like a torn up cartridge style elmore, is it plastic or metal


If it is plastic, punch out the flat ring in the center, then hit it with a heat gun to soften the plastic and pic an pry the rest out.

no it is metal. the right side  tapped out okay and both sets of bearings are out plus the hollow paper or plastic cartridge that fits between the two sets of bearings. you can see were I have been hitting it to try and loosen it.
"Where ever we go, there we are"
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#7
I have the same idea as nfmisso about tat...........
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#8
Take a hack saw, pass it through the center of the cup, and cut a slot in it all the way down to the inside of the frame. If you're careful you can do this without any real damage to the threads on the frame. Then give it a few firm taps with a hammer and often you will break the bond between the frame and the cup. It should then either be easier to unscrew or you can even cut a 2nd slot and just break the thing into 2 pieces.
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#9
(05-12-2015, 03:46 PM)DaveM Wrote:  Take a hack saw, pass it through the center of the cup, and cut a slot in it all the way down to the inside of the frame. If you're careful you can do this without any real damage to the threads on the frame. Then give it a few firm taps with a hammer and often you will break the bond between the frame and the cup. It should then either be easier to unscrew or you can even cut a 2nd slot and just break the thing into 2 pieces.

I'll try that as a last resort Dave. Today I bought the removal tool and some juice. A couple of days of juice anf thursday I'll give it a shot with this 2" long 5/8 inch bolt and accompany 5/8" washers. Had a good day today on my weekly hunt. Picked up two more Kuwahara's, one a max trak, the other a ladies bike. Both one day restorations I'm hoping.
[Image: peu_20150512_1563.jpg_zpscahu50fy.png~original]
"Where ever we go, there we are"
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