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Quick release vs. bolt on axle durability
#1
I'm about to replace the rear wheel on my bike. The new wheel has a quick release, and I'm wondering if, since the axle is hollow, it would make it more prone to bending than the fixed bolt axle.
The new wheel is the same brand as the old one (Weinmann 519, 26"x1.5), and they appear identical in all respects except for the axle.
My question is, would it be better for the sake of durability to use the old bolt on axle on the new wheel? One consideration may be that my bike is equipped with a freewheel as opposed to a casstette/freehub.
The old axle is, of course, undamaged, I'm replacing the wheel because of damage to the drive side bearing cup.
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#2
The solid axle may bend under heavy use, but is very unlikely to break. It appears you already have the new wheel or I would recommend a cassette style, which has much greater durability of the axle.
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#3
I think I'll probably use the solid bolt on axle. I thought of just keeping it as a spare in case something goes wrong with the quick release, but now I'm thinking that if the axle gets damaged, it might also damage the wheel hub, especially if it breaks. It probably wouldn't, but you never know. Besides, a bolt on seems a little more secure from theft.
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#4
I would leave the new as it was intended, nutted or quik release all steal the same if thats the case, nutted are more of a hassle when it come to flat repair.I feel quik release axles are more durable than solid whether with a cassette or freewheel plain and simple.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#5
(10-18-2014, 12:00 AM)painkiller Wrote:  I would leave the new as it was intended, nutted or quik release all steal the same if thats the case, nutted are more of a hassle when it come to flat repair.I feel quik release axles are more durable than solid whether with a cassette or freewheel plain and simple.
I don't know, it seems like a quick release axle would be a little weaker because it's hollow. Also, I know nothing would prevent someone using a wrench to remove my rear wheel, but the extra step they'd have to take might be a bit of a deterent. I guess I could just run the cable through the rear tire when I'm locking up my bike, but then I'd probably get gunk all over my hands from the chain. You're right about flats for sure though.
I don't use my bike for heavy off road riding. There's an extensive system of paved trails here in Flagler county, FL where I live, so that's another point in favor of the quick release. Sometimes though the trails are less well tended and get pretty bumpy, and it would be just my luck to crack and axle on a slab of concrete pushed up by tree roots or riding through a construction area.
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#6
Without getting involved of the science of metallurgy, let me put it to you this way. My box of bent/out of true solid axles are 20 to one of my box of hollow axles at least. But what makes this even more gross is the fact that the percentage of solid axle bikes I have worked on are only about 20% compared to hollow ones. In other words there is hardly a solid axle I have seen that was not on its way out or was perfect from the get go. feel free to do as you wish, this is just my experience over the years. as far as getting your hands greasy running the cable thru the wheel, I guess stay away from the chain, there are other paths to take I am sure.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#7
(10-18-2014, 09:51 AM)painkiller Wrote:  Without getting involved of the science of metallurgy, let me put it to you this way. My box of bent/out of true solid axles are 20 to one of my box of hollow axles at least. But what makes this even more gross is the fact that the percentage of solid axle bikes I have worked on are only about 20% compared to hollow ones. In other words there is hardly a solid axle I have seen that was not on its way out or was perfect from the get go. feel free to do as you wish, this is just my experience over the years. as far as getting your hands greasy running the cable thru the wheel, I guess stay away from the chain, there are other paths to take I am sure.
That's an interesting fact, and it makes what you're saying a lot more persuasive. Twenty to one, you say? That's a lot! I wonder why though? I mean, I can see why a hollow axle would start out truer, because it must be forged over a mandrel of some kind, but why would it stay truer in use?
I ran into stuff like this when I was doing archery, as well, sometimes the physics make the actual facts counter-intuitive. I'd like to know more about it.
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#8
J. Hanley, this is an interesting topic with 2 very opposed camps. I'm very heavy, and if you compare solid axle freewheel to QR axle freewheel I'm afraid I respectfully disagree with painkiller, I bend both, but QR much quicker. Now with solid axle freehub (cassette) wheels I've had great luck.
I've never had a front wheel QR axle issue.
Just my opinion, but in a cheap wheel, I'm taking a solid axle every time.
I've been told I don't know how to adjust & use a QR (I do). Also that a quality hollow axle won't have issues (the last one I bent was from Shimano's best loose ball cassette hub).
I've had two different engineers give different opinions.
Be careful if you swap axles, the thread may appear the same but be different.
Have you bought the new wheel yet?
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#9
That is just my experience, maybe others here can chime in about this. I just want help ease your mind about durability and needless mod of a new wheel you now own as you may end up doing more bad than good for really an unwarranted act. It will be fine. I also find overall that most hollow axle hubs are much more free spinning, probably due to better materials and processes during manufacturing, but do not get me wrong, there are some very lowend hubs like that out there also.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#10
(10-18-2014, 10:51 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  J. Hanley, this is an interesting topic with 2 very opposed camps. I'm very heavy, and if you compare solid axle freewheel to QR axle freewheel I'm afraid I respectfully disagree with painkiller, I bend both, but QR much quicker. Now with solid axle freehub (cassette) wheels I've had great luck.
I've never had a front wheel QR axle issue.
Just my opinion, but in a cheap wheel, I'm taking a solid axle every time.
I've been told I don't know how to adjust & use a QR (I do). Also that a quality hollow axle won't have issues (the last one I bent was from Shimano's best loose ball cassette hub).
I've had two different engineers give different opinions.
Be careful if you swap axles, the thread may appear the same but be different.
Have you bought the new wheel yet?
I have the new wheel, and I'm getting ready to replace it today.
I think I'm leaning twords using the solid axle. As I mentioned in an earlier post, both wheels are from the same manufacturer, Weinmann, and so I'm pretty sure the hardware (cones, locknuts, ect.) are the same.
I just don't see much advantage in the quick release for the way I'm using my bike. The ease of tire repair seems balanced out by the fact that you add play to the bearings when removing the tire. It seems as if there's just more that can go wrong with them.
I've had my bike for about ten years, and I've replaced the rear wheel about three times. I've had bent rims, broken spokes, and this latest time the bearing cup was damaged, but I've never had a bent axle, and there's always been a solid, bolt on one back there. But heck, for all I know, the axle won't fit the new wheel anyway!
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#11
(10-18-2014, 10:51 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  J. Hanley, this is an interesting topic with 2 very opposed camps. I'm very heavy, and if you compare solid axle freewheel to QR axle freewheel I'm afraid I respectfully disagree with painkiller, I bend both, but QR much quicker. Now with solid axle freehub (cassette) wheels I've had great luck.
I've never had a front wheel QR axle issue.
Just my opinion, but in a cheap wheel, I'm taking a solid axle every time.
I've been told I don't know how to adjust & use a QR (I do). Also that a quality hollow axle won't have issues (the last one I bent was from Shimano's best loose ball cassette hub).
I've had two different engineers give different opinions.
Be careful if you swap axles, the thread may appear the same but be different.
Have you bought the new wheel yet?
Thanks Jef, no hurt feelings here! been waitng for you to chime in on this one bro! But if he already owns the wheel, do you still think he should do mod or just use it as is ? I guess this is the scope of his question. I am normally around 230lbs and I figure slamming down hills and taking big drops and hits I put the bike thru more punishment than a 400lb person just doing a joy ride or a daily commute, but who knows
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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#12
Here's an update: I just finished installing the new wheel, and I decided on the bolt on axle.
Thanks for your help everybody who posted.
The quick release axle looked really sturdy, but for now since I'm not going to change the way I ride, I figured the equipment I'm used to would be better. I just got back from a ride and everything went together just right.
Man, that bearing cup on the old wheel was a mess! I couldn't see how bad it was with the freewheel on it, but it's cracked in three places, and it was so pushed in I had to use a washer between the drive side locknut and the lockout to get enough clearance to use my smallest cog!
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#13
Good deal ! ride on!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
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