Rear wheel schwinn suburban

[Cimbro]

I got a new rear wheel and fitted my freewheel to it after I cleaned it up. Everything spins beautifully. But before I fitted the wheel on to the bike frame I thought I should tighten a nut on each side to the hub. These nuts came with the wheel in addition to the chrome outside tighteners. (The wheel is not quick release) Then I put the new wheel on and started to align it. Suddenly the hub is almost frozen. Wheel barely turns. Ouch. I removed those nuts which must have been for the outside of the bolt not meant to be snug to the hub. I checked the ball bearings and they were well greased. But still, as soon as I tighten the hub even finger tight the wheel no longer spins smoothly. Did I wreck the wheel?

[Painkiller]

clear close up pics of your wheel axle area, both sides might help.
Did you use a cone wrench when you decided to tighten the inner nut? If you did not completely disassemble the axle. it sounds like you loosened the cones, and when you are tightening the outer nuts you are spinning the cones tight also. You have to use a cone wrench to lock the cone to the skinny nut on each side once the bearings are snugged properly. Then they will not move when tightening the wheel to the frame.

[Cimbro]

(10-27-2013, 10:20 AM)painkiller Wrote:  clear close up pics of your wheel axle area, both sides might help.
Did you use a cone wrench when you decided to tighten the inner nut? If you did not completely disassemble the axle. it sounds like you loosened the cones, and when you are tightening the outer nuts you are spinning the cones tight also. You have to use a cone wrench to lock the cone to the skinny nut on each side once the bearings are snugged properly. Then they will not move when tightening the wheel to the frame.

Thanks for your reply. I will try to put it all back together for pics but am thinking if I wrecked or stripped something then I maybe get a quick release wheel I can't screw up.

This new wheel spun freely until I stupidly hard wrench tightened and squeezed the two outer nuts against the cone wrench nuts. So when I removed the outer nuts it was still seized up. then I had to use a cone wrench to try to loosen the hub up. It did free up but when I retighten those cone wrench nuts the wheel does not spin and I don't remember them having to be loose on the new hub for the wheel to spin freely. If I leave them loose won't dirt and rain water get into the bearings and won't the axle gave too much play inside?

[nfmisso]

(10-27-2013, 07:47 PM)Cimbro Wrote:  ..... then I maybe get a quick release wheel I can't screw up......

A Q/R hub can be screwed up just as easily.

A simple over tightening, then releasing probably did not hurt anything.

Where are you located? Maybe one of us is close enough to help you.

[GeorgeET]

As PK and Nigel said you over tightened the cones. The process for adjustment is tighten the cones till there is no play when you push and pull the axle, and the wheel should still spin freely.

To lock the cones in place you hold the cone steady with a special thin cone wrench and turn the outer nut tight against the cone to lock it in place and keep the cone from spinning. This may take a few tries to get right.

The final test can be done with the bike upside down installing the wheel normally and grabbing the rim check for side to side play. Sometimes a readjustment is needed . Find the sweet spot where the wheel spins freely and does not have side to side play.

QR wheels have cones and lock nuts too, they just do not use the outer nut that locks the wheel in frame. Instead they use a skewer. Easier to steal.

Also you did leave a one bearing space in the hub, not cramming the bearings tight.

[Cimbro]

(10-28-2013, 02:27 AM)GeorgeET Wrote:  As PK and Nigel said you over tightened the cones. The process for adjustment is tighten the cones till there is no play when you push and pull the axle, and the wheel should still spin freely.

To lock the cones in place you hold the cone steady with a special thin cone wrench and turn the outer nut tight against the cone to lock it in place and keep the cone from spinning. This may take a few tries to get right.

The final test can be done with the bike upside down installing the wheel normally and grabbing the rim check for side to side play. Sometimes a readjustment is needed . Find the sweet spot where the wheel spins freely and does not have side to side play.

QR wheels have cones and lock nuts too, they just do not use the outer nut that locks the wheel in frame. Instead they use a skewer. Easier to steal.

Also you did leave a one bearing space in the hub, not cramming the bearings tight.

Thanks very much to you all for this advice. I am just outside of NYC by the way. I will try the suggestions. Nice to know the cone may still be ok and may just need the right adjustment against the lock nuts. I do have the thin cone wrench. I will look for some tutorials. Again my thanks.