Hello,
I've got this problem that I have never had before...
The back wheel keeps kicking over and rubbing the left side chainrail frame tube. I've tightened it(quickrelease) and it still kicks over. It seems to do it worse in the small and medium chainring and the smaller rear gears. It's not as bad if I run it in the large front chainring and the larger rear gears, but still does it if I really push the speed up(shift up to the smaller rear gears).
What do you think is going on hear and can it be fixed??
Thanks,
PJ
make sure everything is clean, no missing, out of adjustment or broken parts, and then it just a matter of tightening everything sufficiently.
Make sure that your wheel bearings are properly adjusted - if loose ball (aka cone and cup); I would take it apart, clean, check, re-grease and put it back together.
Nigel
Yep, wheel bearings properly adjusted, cleaned and re-greased(did this a couple months ago). Wiped off the outer wheel slots, and quick release(did not look greasy or oily). We'll see what happens...
Sure was giving me a time today... within 11 miles, I had to reset the wheel at least, 6 times... really getting aggrevating !!
I can tell whom-ever had the bike before me(got it second hand) had the same problem. It wore the paint off the inside of the left chainstay where the tire rubbed it.
You ever had a bike do this to you??
Thanks,
PJ
the only time was when the rear bearing cup on the right side came loose - was on a wheel that I did not build - after that I tear apart cone'n'cup wheels before installing on my bikes.....
Nigel
(07-12-2013, 03:32 AM)nfmisso Wrote: the only time was when the rear bearing cup on the right side came loose - was on a wheel that I did not build - after that I tear apart cone'n'cup wheels before installing on my bikes.....
When you mount the wheel, stand behind the bike & see if the tire is not centered at the top, ie: leaning toward the left or right at the top.
This happens to me on some frames, I bend them, the rear chain/seat stays so that the wheel in cocked to the left at the top while even within the chain stays. I am very heavy & in the seat more than most, I ride a lot & slowly.
I had this happen with an excellent rear wheel, my finest & most expensive, Shimano Deore hub & velocity psycho rim in one of my frames ONLY when I used a Maxxis Hookworm (huge) 26x2.5 tire. I have no clue as to why other than the tire sits cocked to the left at the top. The rear of the frame is bent from my weight, not the drop outs, the rear "triangle". It works fine in the same frame & two other frames with a 26x2 tire.
You can make a tool to check the rear drop outs for alignment with two sockets a few washers, two nuts & a couple of 3 or 4 " long 3/8" bolts.
If this just started and nothing else was done/changed, it could be a problem with the QR skewer. Sometimes the cams on these don't clamp tight enough after a while. But first check:
- when the wheel is in the frame, take the skewer off completely. Do the ends of the axle stick out beyond the outer surface of the dropout? If so, the end of the axle might be hitting the inner surface of the skewer preventing it from clamping down on the frame tightly. It's possible the axle got shifted slightly when you had the bearings rebuilt. If it does stick out on either side, you can try to recenter it or just file the end of the axle down a bit if it's just a mm or something.
- check that the skewer springs are on right with the small end of the spring going toward the center of the bike. (People often get these on backwards and the spring gets caught between skewer and frame.)
- you can rough up the clamping surface of the skewer a little with a file or sand paper. If it's not too smooth, it may help it bite into the dropout a little and hold better. Most skewers have little ridges or teeth and filing these to make them deeper/sharper may help.
- If the clamping cam on the skewer can be taken apart, open it up to clean and grease
- If all that fails, maybe trying getting a new skewer. Some just clamp tighter than others.
OK, looked at everything suggested. All looked well...
I did cut some lines in the quick release clamping surfaces as suggested. The quick release surfaces were smooth before this.
I'll give it a try when it stops raining.
Thanks for all the help !!,
PJ
And if none of that works, switch to a solid axle with Origin 8 nuts, everything should be 10mm x 1.0 thread pitch.
Still doing it... not quite as bad, but still moving.
Can you replace a quick release axle with a solid axle with the same hub?? Where do you get them?? Now, this is a 7 speed shimano cassette 26" mountain bike.
Seems to be just the drive side that is slipping. The slots for the axle are slanted forward on this frame so when I crank down good the drive side moves forward in the frame slot.
Hello ???...
Still there ???????
I would like to see pics of what you have. Close up shots of the wheel from the rear on each side with the skewer removed. one with the skewer pushed in and held by hand and without the spin nut to show me the length of threads left
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
(07-13-2013, 02:33 AM)!TREK4ME! Wrote: Can you replace a quick release axle with a solid axle with the same hub?? Where do you get them?? Now, this is a 7 speed shimano cassette 26" mountain bike.
Yes. Amazon. Pull one of the old nuts from the hollow axle, go to a hardware store & comfirm the thread pitch is 10mm x 1.0. Nuts are here. Axle is here, REMEMBER the new axle has to go ALL the way thru the frame AND still accept nuts.
Before you buy parts listen to painkiller, he actually gets paid to work on bikes.
OK ... I should be able to get them shot(pics) and put on by tomorrow night.
Thanks,
PJ
Think we got it figured out...
Sorry for the delay, but it seems that I was just not tightening the quick release skewer enough. Seems to be working fine now. I think the lines that were cut on the clamping surfaces are what did the trick too.
Thanks for all the help !!!,
PJ
|
