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New parts for 2nd bike
this morning I stopped by a friends house and had a little luck (well maybe luck isn't the right word) but he had a Denali that was collecting dust in his garage. I asked him about it and he said that he got it last year on clearance and just couldn't get into it so I asked him if he would be interested in selling it. He said a case of beer and it was mine (gotta love the south and keystone drinkers) and figuring the frame was at least worth that I went ahead and got it. While I was researching to buy my first bike I came across a lot of reviews on the denali where it seemed that serious cyclist laughed at the bike while it seemed to work for the everyday commuter cyclist that didn't mind upgrading a few parts. After a quick test ride I can definitely see why the grip shifters get so much flack, I was not a fan at all compared to the shifters on my Trek. The brakes were fine for lower speeds but anything over 20mph and you entered the brake and pray stage. And since I have a little extra cash at the moment and ended up getting the entire bike for around 20 bucks I can make this into a comfortable commuter with at least the same style components that are on my other bike. That way I dont start fiddling around trying to revo shift while on my Trek and vice versa. Now the 20 dollar question is.....where can I find bars and shifters that will fit onto this bike for hopefully less than 200 if possible. I dont need top of the line since this will only be used for commuting but I would like it to be reliable and safe. Thanks for any suggestions or input that you may have for me
Quote:I can definitely see why the grip shifters get so much flack

Personally, I like the SRAM grip shifters on my hybrid bike. Although the shifters on my road bike are double indexed, I can shift across more gears, in either direction, faster and smoother with the grip shifters than I can with the Tiagra SIS shifters.

As for the Denali, I looked it up and it looks like the only model they have is a road bike with drop handles and SIS style brake levers. Couldn't see the grip shifters in the photo but on a drop handle, they would have to be located pretty close to the stem for you to use them; unless I am misunderstanding your terminology for grip shifters. That would mean too much movement of the hands while riding in order to shift and brake. Not a very good or safe design. What type of drive train components does it have as the sites that I have found for the Denali don't have much information on the components?
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe...Ride Hard...Ride Daily
Here is a pic I found on amazon of the same bike, except now this one doesnt have any of the decals left on it. http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B000FDDWB6/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_3?ie=UTF8&index=3

Also here are the specs listed by the site:
Frame: Aluminum 7005 straight gauge
Fork: GMC Series 7000 steel
Chain: KMC Z 51
Crankset: Prowheel Alloy 335P6 28X38X48 170mm
Front Derailleur: Shimano FD-TZ 31 Index
Rear Derailleur: Shimano RD-TZ30GS 7SPD
Shifters: Shimano Revo SIS L2/R7
Brake levers: Promax BL-250AP Aluminum
Brakes: Promax 501A Alloy Caliper Brake
Rims: Vitesse Alloy black 700CX14GX36H
Tires: Kenda Black With Grey Band 700X28C
Stem: Aluminum black EXT:100mm 0D.
Handlebar: Maesbend W: 430mm D:22.0mm
Saddle: Cionlli Black
Seat post: HL Aluminum Micro Adjust 27.2 X 300mm
Pedals: VP-990S plastic body with steel cage
Weight: 29.0 lbs

I agree, the grip shifters are located right up against the stem pretty much and require a LONG movement from brakes to shifter which is why I would like to replace the handlebars with a one piece bar unlike the one currently on it and new shifters that are much safer to operate.
Hey ART. I know those bikes well (unfortunately).
The bars that you have are steel and bolted together near the center, yes? I use those at the shop to display bar-tapes in real life - feel me. You can easily, and affordably, make a sweet commuter out of that one!
I don't stay current on on-line pricing but, your LBS should be able to get a decent aluminum bar for <$30.
It's the 7 speed rear that will make you crazy. We can't easily order 7 speed shifters these days. How do you feel about shifters mounted on the Left and Right of the downtube? Or maybe on the bar-ends? That is what I learned on! You can spend anywhere from $10 (used) to $$$.

My suggestion, as you have mentioned its use as a commuter, is to make a Flat Bar Roadie out of it. Have a look at Treks FX Series. If you think they look nice, they feel better. I want one!
Of course, this route will cost more in parts but, for $200??? Bring me a case of beer (Coors Lite) and I can make it happen for <$100. Parts only, of course. Pizza might cover the Labor. Smile You in Arkansas?
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
Hey glad to see a fellow Arkansan here. I am from Jonesboro so only a few hours away. I've been to Mtn. Home plenty of times to the lake so I know my way around there. Yeah those bars just dont feel safe to me while at riding speeds at all due to the LONG distance from the shifters to the brake lever. Never seen downtube shifters but I will research them some, but if they require shifting by hand then it might present the same distance problem. End of bar shifters could work if they would work with new bar, at least then I would feel safe and be in the same general area. How do those mount? Could you mount thumb style shifters on the outside of the drop bar behind the brake and then run the cord under new tape on backside? Dont even know if thats possible, just thinking outside the box here. And like I said I am not worried about looking cool on this bike since it will only be for a commuter to get the legs a few extra miles in while not training. Plus getting the butt saddle ready for centuries. What I am looking for is ease of use and safety while staying in a drop bar form so it wont be a big transition from my main bike. I dont think I will find brifters for less than 200 so thats why I was considering alternate shifters.

If we can figure something out then coors lite (nice choice) and pizza is defintely on me. Smile Plus I might even be able to lend some of my mechanical skills. Handing tools to the real mechanics.
Do you have a Park Tool PZT-2?
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
I'm going to go out on a limb and say no unfortunately I do not. But after googling it that should soon change. That is awesome!
Someone can correct me if I'm wrong, but in your situation, I think the easiest and cheapest way out would be to replace the dropbar with a straight bar and keep the shifters since 7 speed shifters are hard to come by. This way, all you have to do is to replace the brake levers. Putting the twist shifters at the end of the grips and placing the brake levers next to the shifters will give you brakes and shifters without having to move your hands from the grips. Of course, if you really want the dropbar, then I would go with bar-end shifters.
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe...Ride Hard...Ride Daily
here are some 7 speed shifters compatible with Shimano that can work with drop bars:
Thanks alot guys, you have been a huge help. I would like to keep drop bars and I believe bar end shifters will be the way to go. Now I just have to find a set of drop bars that will work with this bike. I've read bad things about the stem on this bike also, is that something worth looking into changing? Since my Trek is fine as is I think this could turn into a fun little project to upgrade over time. I know it will never be light due to the frame but I never plan on selling or racing it anyways and it could be a great starter bike once upgraded for a friend who is interested in trying out cycling. So if you could help with any upgrade solutions I could make a list and start upgrading over time. Anything like campy cranks,new derailleurs, etc...Just decent reliable stuff that wont break after a few hundred miles.
Quick reply if someone would be so kind...I found this listing and was wondering if this would work on the bike if I replaced the back cassettes or whatever I would have to in order to make it work? If I can win this and it work it would be a long way in improving the overall quality of the bike. Added with new brakes,derailleurs, etc....
Art. I came across that same bike. I spent 100 bucks on it. Here is what I did with it. http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-873.html
(04-06-2011, 09:07 PM)ARThriller Wrote:  Quick reply if someone would be so kind...I found this listing and was wondering if this would work on the bike if I replaced the back cassettes or whatever I would have to in order to make it work? If I can win this and it work it would be a long way in improving the overall quality of the bike. Added with new brakes,derailleurs, etc....
Hi Art;
You'll need:
  • dual pivot side pull or cantilever brakes if you have V-brakes now
  • 8 speed cassette; if you have a cassette now, if not a new cassette rear wheel/hub if you feeling building your own wheel as well as the 8 speed cassette
  • derailleur is a maybe, a Sunrace 8 speed is cheap on Amazon. Your current derailluer is only rated to 7 speed, but 8 speed needs only an extra 3.5mm of travel see: Cassette/Freewheel spacing http://sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-spacing.shtml
Ok after changing my mind about 3 times today I think I have officially just decided that I am going to go SS on this bike. So that part is settled. Now all is left is figuring out what I need for the conversion. I saw where you could use the Enos Eccentric hub to convert it and those run around the 130 mark new. But if anyone can point me in the right direction of what else is required then I would gladly appreciate it.
This is all you need for a cassette to SS conversion:

a wheel like this:

allows an 8 speed cassette or SS conversion as listed above.
Alright thank you. I now have everything for the conversion ready to order. Ended up costing me right around 60 dollars. So for the last piece, can ANYONE please show me a cheap set of road bars that will fit on this bike? I've looked around but I would like a second opinion so that I dont order a part that wont fit and have to end up sending it back which is never fun. Thanks to anyone who can help out. I will really appreciate it.

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