SRAM +Shimano = PAAAAAAAAAAAAAIN!!!!!!!
You my friend have been mightily lucky, normally when one mixes SRAM and Shimano in mechs and shifters the result is the mech tearing itself apart.
The reason is that they pull at different ratios of cable to movement. SRAM is 1:1, which means the length of cable pulled is the same as the distance the derallieur moves up/down the cassette. Shimano is 1:1.something, meaning the derallieur goes further for the same length of cable pulled, hence why the combination of Shimano and SRAM tears itself apart.
Put that bike away in the garage until you've replaced EITHER the rear mech or shifter so both brands are the same!
(note: you CAN mix SRAM and Shimano on the front because both pull at the same ratio, it's just the rear that's awkward).
Not sure about SRAM trigger shifters, but my hybrid came with SRAM grip shifters and both front and rear deraileurs are Shimano Altus components, including the cassette. Never had any issues with them and I've put over 1,000 miles in 6 months on that bike. Those shifters shift like a dream, sometimes better than the Tiagra components on my road bike.
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe...Ride Hard...Ride Daily
SRAM do an ATTACK series of trigger shifters and grip shifters that work on the same ratio as Shimano (and are therefore compatible). That's probably what you've got, and they tend to be found on entry level mtbs, hybrids, etc. where high performance isn't as important. I'm not saying they're bad, they're actually very good for the money I think but they lack the durability of more expensive models (which is important in the world of serious MTBing).
Check the rear mech for stress fractures and general damage. I don't think anything else will have broken.
That rear derallieur will be fine. Any SRAM mech with 1:1 ratios will be fine (so basically any X-series mech). You can mix and match the number in the X-series, they all work using the same system it's just the number denotes the quality (X4 being basic, X9 being ultra nice, X0 being ultra-light blingy carbon-goodness). To be honest you're better spending the money at the shifter end though as you'll notice the difference more (an x7 shifter with an x4 mech will feel a LOT nicer than an x4 shifter and an X9 mech; and is usually a cheaper combination), so just grab the X4.
(01-31-2011, 03:49 PM)JonB Wrote: SRAM do an ATTACK series of trigger shifters and grip shifters that work on the same ratio as Shimano (and are therefore compatible). That's probably what you've got, and they tend to be found on entry level mtbs, hybrids, etc. where high performance isn't as important. I'm not saying they're bad, they're actually very good for the money I think but they lack the durability of more expensive models (which is important in the world of serious MTBing).
I guess that explains that.
Since I don't do MTB, I'm pretty happy with that combo on my hybrid.
HCFR Cycling Team
Ride Safe...Ride Hard...Ride Daily
JonB pretty much nailed it and I will try to make a condensed version of what he said... *deep breath*...
SRAMs X series is all dedicated to thier 1:1 pull ratio. From X.0 all the way down to X.3 and also anything with ESP as part of the model name. SRAM drlrs and shifters ONLY.
SRAM products that are Shimano compatible are any 2:1 ratio models that include MRX as part of the model name, Centera, and Attack in GripShift. The TRX trigger-shift models also work with Shimano drlrs.
The reason that your current set-up works in Hi & Low but not any other rear cogs is because the H & L Limit Screws are properly adjusted. It can't move beyond those points in either direction.
All the noise in the middle is incompatico noise.
I seriously doubt that you have done any damage beyond abusing the chain. Might consider a new one with the new drlr install.
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
Ok so I received my new rear derailleur in the mail today and installed it. My problem now is that it won't go into the highest gear (smallest one). I've tried adjusting the H limit screw, but it unscrews all the way before it lines up with the gear. Also it still skips a gear in the middle, but I figure that might be because it misses this first gear and throws it off a little. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
can you use SRAM cassettes with a shimano derailleur?
i cant think of any reason why you couldnt.
Get on your bad pedalscooter and ride!
Unless it's XT or Ultegra, I actually prefer SRAM cassettes over Shimano, run with ANY chain, and good $$ value.
Your drlr has no clue what cass it is feeding chain to. It is the tooth profile on the cogs that gives results.
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
I'm still unable to get the chain to shift onto the smallest gear on the cassette. I adjusted the b-screw to where Alex says to in the video then tried adjusting the high limit screw but it won't move the derailleur far enough to the right to pop onto the smallest gear. Any help?
I have a Trek 7200 that I bought used , it came with SRAM Max Comp Shifters (7sp grip ) and a Shimano Acera Rear Derailleur.
The bike had a pretty rusty handlebar and cables so I decided to replace them. Also I noticed when inspecting the bike that the front derailleur was so corroded it was amazing that it worked. so I decided to replace it as well. All went fine until I installed the new rear derailleur. I can not get it to move across the gears to shift at all ! Any Ideas what I screwed up ?
I am considering putting the old rear back on as it was not in bad shape ?
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