Hi all,
I've been a lurker here for ages, but recently decided to fix my bike myself rather than get it done by the local bike shop.
So I followed the tutorial for replacing a sealed bottom bracket cartridge, however I can't for the life of me get the drive side lockring to move. I think I've even worn out my lockring tool, and will need to get another one. Damn thing just won't budge!
Is there anything i can do?
Thanks ever so much for your help and this great site
//first post so take it easy, especially with the acronyms.
Just a reminder that the drive side is clockwise to undo.
You say "lockring" - is this an old style BB or a cartridge?
If a cartridge - is it plastic, steel or aluminum?
In the end you might have to resort to LBS to remove it. Get it wrong and you could wreck the frame.
Ride hard or ride home alone!
Hi Don,
Quick question is there any way you would be able to post a close up picture?
Thank in advanced ,
Bill
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
This looks like its been in for a while, as been said it probably is counterclockwise rotation.Try soaking it for a day or so.Try to get one of the better penetrants. Butane torch Heat is good.Careful for flame ables and paint. Follow manufacturers info on all products.
Sure be nice if members listed location in their FAQ, as some of these are USA only items.
" Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break
out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They arranged a subjective
test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque
required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment."
Type of penetrating oil ..... Average load
None ................................ 516 pounds
WD-40 ............................ 238 pounds
PB Blaster .......................214 pounds
Liquid Wrench .............. 127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix......... 53 pounds
The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic
transmission fluid and acetone.
Never Give Up!!!
If you do use heat then check there isn't a plastic cable guide under the bottom bracket. Remove before applying heat.
Also if you have applied any release oil / liquid then clean this off before as well.
The chances are that the steel BB has welded itself to the alloy frame due to electrolytic action. (dissimilar metals).
Ride hard or ride home alone!
10-4 to all your cautions. Also when using penetrant give the bracket a sharp tap once in a while to help . Do be careful and if these tips do not work do take it to a mechanic.
BTW congratulations on doing the job yourself. I just did a overhaul of all my bearings and the cost of tools is less than shop rate and now I have the tools.
Never Give Up!!!
Really appreciate all the help and advice here. Another weekend comes and I'm going to try again. I'll keep you posted.
So many times I have fought these stubborn bottom brackets, I have found that there is no grease on the threads. You are so right trev, there seems to be a problem with allow into steel. I have a specific longer bolt and large washers that allows me to lock the BB tool in place. It gives great management to controlling removal.
Cycle the streets of Bristol!
Sometimes a man just needs a bigger hammer.
Wheelies don't pop themselves. (from a QBP fortune cookie)
(02-20-2012, 09:29 PM)RobAR Wrote: Sometimes a man just needs a bigger hammer.
Trini Lopez song!!
Cycle the streets of Bristol!