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Pulley (farthest one) noise...
ok...i ended up getting
Shimano HG50 8sp 12-25 Cassette and<br />
HG-70 Hyperglide chain 6,7,8sp
wish me luck! hope this setup works too...

Sorry Cure,<br />
Because of the time differences I didn't get back to you.<br />
I have HG50 13-26 on one of my bikes with a 30/40/50 triple. It's a good set up for my general riding. The HG70 chain comes with a special connecting pin.<br />
It is easy to use but don't try breaking the chain again at that link.<br />
You will require a chain tool for the job.
I've taken to using these for ease of fitting and removal:-<br />
Let the Forum know how you get on and whether the noise goes away with the new chain.

Ride hard or ride home alone!
Thanks for your help. i wanted to purchase it as soon as i could so i could get it for the weekend to test ride... so i guess you have no objections on what i got, meaning its fine?
As for the hg70, i have a chain tool... but i'm not sure if its great quality as i'm afraid i will mess something up. the tool looks very similar to this... same brand too...

i looked at it last night and the push axial looks pointed... is that right? when i watch alex's tutorial his tool looks a little flat... i hope this doesn't effect the installation, but you did say there was a special connecting pin? will i need to have to cut it too? or the link above is enough to do the job?
i'll definitely let you guys know if the problem goes away or not. Smile thank you!
That tool should be fine. It's the same as one that I use. The pin is pointed. You will need the tool to remove the old chain and to fit the new Shimano rivet.
The shimano rivet is long and is pushed all the way into the chain. The front half is a guide and when fully home is broken off with pliers. There should be instructions in the box explaining the method.
This rivet is extra hard and if removed to brake the chain will damage the link it's in. That's why you must not remove this pin again. (It's black in colour so should be easily found if required.)
I have also re-joined Shimano chains and re-used the normal rivets as per standard chains.

Ride hard or ride home alone!
i finally got my cassette and new chain yesterday. installed it. the same noise is coming out again...this is really frustrating me. shifting is nice though. im wondering if it really is the pulley that needs to be replaced...or the whole DR for that matter!.... on top of that, a new noise came up...one problem after another. when the wheel spins freely, there is a rattling noise like a metal piece is loosely spinning within the tire. i will take the back wheel out and deflate tire and check the inside of it to make sure (who knows) there wasnt something that got in??
i guess i'll need to end up going to the lbs to ask them and see if it is a bent DR (which i doubt) or pulleys need to be replaced...argh!

i checked my tire ...took both tire and tube off rim...installed rim back on...pedaled and there was no noise...i reinstalled the tube and tire and spun the wheel...the noise came back...is it possible there is something in the tube?? im not sure...i check the spokes and none feel loose or broken... please help me diagnose this. thank you.

Except for the valve stem, I can't see what in a tube would cause a metallic rattle. I would have guessed loose spoke, but sounds like you've checked that. Seems like you might have to have someone take a look at it. Mystery sounds are tough. Good luck.

its not the valve. everything is tight. i put on a new tube, nothing changed...
ya i rechecked the spokes and no rattle noise. i went to 2 different lbs' here and asked what the noise was...one guy said cant hear anything, the other guy said its because my rims are a little wobbly but good enough to be safe. (less than 1/32...but i noticed the radial wobble is like a 1/16...does this effect any sort of noise that may be coming from the rim?
i brought up the noise coming from my pulley too, both of the lbs guys said it was a normal noise...but swear it was a lot louder than when i first got it...
when lubing a chain, is it ok to put a lube right on top of a manufacture lube? i didnt clean the new chain off but the lbs guy applied some tri flow on the chain..he said it was ok, its ok right? thanks again...if i cant fix this problem i guess i'll give up as long as its safe to ride...

Sorry to hear that the original "noise" hasn't gone away.<br />
It does sound like the jockey wheels on the video.<br />
I suppose the next option are new jockey wheels but no guarantee?
Regarding the tyre noise:-<br />
I had an inner tube on my MTB that had something inside it.<br />
I could spin the wheel up and then stop it - the "thing" carried on inside the tube for a few more rev's - drove me mad, so fitted new tube.<br />
I had a wheel on another bike that started making clicking sounds. Turned out to be a spoke. BUT it only made the noise when the tyre was inflated above 100 psi, and of course when I rode it.<br />
The high tyre pressure must have "distorted" the rim enough to alter spoke tension.<br />
Fitted a new spoke and clicking went away.<br />
Gradually though the noise reappeared, so ended up fitting new rims and spokes.

Ride hard or ride home alone!
thanks again, so if i want to get the pulleys...
i have a shimano sora 8spd ...and the tension pulley has 11t...i cant seem to find that anywhere...
does it have to be a sora brand? or can it be any brand with 11t? it says its a shimano narrow and the guide pulley says its a g-pulley...thanks for any advice!

- Don't clean off the factory lube on a new chain, it is far superior to anything you can put on<br />
- when lubing a chain, remove any dirt from it first. Otherwise you just wreck it faster than if you had not applied anything<br />
- "g-pulley" is the guide pulley, they differ in the bearings and sideways play they have, so they are marked so that we don't assemble the derailleur wrong. Buy any not too expensive set of pulleys with the correct width (and tooth count). I suppose any Shimano (and compatible, there are some alternative brands) will fit. The tooth count could be less critical than the width of the bearing and of course the teeth.

Looks like you can get a Sora rear derailleur for about $20. Maybe just buy the whole thing. Looks like pulleys will cost about $5 each if you can find the right one.

thanks joe and dave!
i saw the sora dr's and they cost the same amount if i went with only the pulleys...so i'd get a new DR. but one concern is how can i get the chain off ? i don't have extra pins to take the chain off and reassemble after putting new DR on. i think theres no other way right because the DR cage will prevent me from taking the chain out from there...

2 ways to remove the derailleur.
1) As you say, - split the chain, which is a pain as youv'e just fitted it.<br />
( that's one of the benefits of a "powerlink" ):-<br />

2) Undo the jockey wheels and that allows the derailleur to be removed without breaking the chain.<br />
***** N.B. Make a note of where the bits go and the route of the chain. *******<br />
The top jockey wheel and bearing is different to the bottom one on Shimano mech's.!
Ride hard or ride home alone!
oh i didnt know that was possible...so the DR i have fitted on my bike already can be taken off my bike, but as for the chain, taking off the pulleys can free the chain from the actual DR? the only reason why i thought it wouldn't work is because of the cage having a guard that wont free the chain...? am i making any sense? thank you .

The cage is held together by the screws that hold the pulley wheels, so if you take that apart, the chain is free. You might also just drop by at a local bike shop and ask whether you can borrow their chain tool for a moment. Many shops will actually do this, in Darmstadt (Germany) there is even a bike shop that has repair stands outside for use by customers. Or get a decent chain tool, they are not that expensive (you don't have to buy the Rohloff Revolver).
The power links (and products by other manufacturers) are a nice idea, I personally don't like them since they can be noisy. I have one in my tool bag on the bike, so that I can replace a broken link quickly.

If you remove the 2 screws, that hold the pulleys, then one side of the cage comes away.<br />
Unless your mech' has some other guard then the chain should be released.
Like I say though, make sure you understand how the chain routes and note the assembly as it can be fiddly to put back together.
See Park tools :-<br />

Ride hard or ride home alone!
Sorry to dig up an old thread. But was the pulley noise ever solved?
I am having the same issue on my bike.
(06-29-2010, 11:25 PM)Zoiks Wrote:  Hi,
Sorry to dig up an old thread. But was the pulley noise ever solved?
I am having the same issue on my bike.

hi i was re-reading the thread. i didn't really come to a conclusion. its definitely not the pulleys. i've been reading around since this thread and think the main reason may be a combination of chain/cassette choice. another reason is because i have a triple crank, so the tensions at a high or low extreme. but i never do that. i keep the chain lubed pretty nice and the noise seems much better though, but maybe its my hearing thats getting immune to it too. what set did you buy? sometimes if you look around long enough on the internet you can find someone talking about this and which combination is the quietest.
Hmmm Just looking at the picture where the chain does not rest in the valleys tells me that the chain. I had a Z30 and put on a 21speed. I got a Z51RB (rust buster) which fixed the problem. I had this problem on a Next Plush 21spd women's MTB. Trust me it is the chain!!!
Being that you have a 8spd Cassette/Freewheel you got a chain that was rated for 6,7, or 8 (casual)(Z51) or maybe a 7,8spd(Z72)? Go with one that is rated 8spd only.
Sorry I did not see this post when you started it.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!

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