Well, I finally got around to taking some pics.
Another homemade tool example.
One 1/2" x 1 ft. threaded rod
Six 2" fender washers
Four 1/2" nylon washers (Not sure of outside diameter)
Two 1/2" Flange Nuts
Total - $6.50 at Lowes
I've pressed in MANY headsets with this. Works every time.
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
Nice thanks for sharing, I'll probably make one, go with the Grade 8 though. Hmmm got any ideas for the remover?
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
For $6.50, I'll take this one over ANY commercial press.
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
I have similar but I also use various sockets (from a socket set) to help center the rod and to keep the cups from tipping. I use a socket that just fits inside the cup and below the washers.
Ride hard or ride home alone!
Wat? I was just about to buy the HHP-3. I will try this first.
headset press home made
to install the crown race for 1 1/8 fork i used 11" inch long 1 1/4 pvc pipe and works great to but i don't have i picture yet
Good way to save over $100. When I do a video on this I'll send people to this thread to learn how they can build their own and save some cash. I'm going to make one myself... nice work guys!
(01-23-2010, 07:34 PM)tino Wrote: headset press home made
to install the crown race for 1 1/8 fork i used 11" inch long 1 1/4 pvc pipe and works great to but i don't have i picture yet
The only reason I didn't get the copper fittings is because they're about $8.50 each, so that ups the total price to $23.50 from $6.50. They do automatically center and level the cups, so that's a bonus. I never understood why you needed 2 though. You should only need one copper reducer since you only install one cup at a time anyway.
(01-24-2010, 04:08 AM)Alex Ramon Wrote: Good way to save over $100. When I do a video on this I'll send people to this thread to learn how they can build their own and save some cash. I'm going to make one myself... nice work guys!
Thanks Alex!
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
(01-24-2010, 07:45 AM)jr14 Wrote: (01-23-2010, 07:34 PM)tino Wrote: headset press home made
to install the crown race for 1 1/8 fork i used 11" inch long 1 1/4 pvc pipe and works great to but i don't have i picture yet
The only reason I didn't get the copper fittings is because they're about $8.50 each, so that ups the total price to $23.50 from $6.50. They do automatically center and level the cups, so that's a bonus. I never understood why you needed 2 though. You should only need one copper reducer since you only install one cup at a time anyway.
(01-24-2010, 04:08 AM)Alex Ramon Wrote: Good way to save over $100. When I do a video on this I'll send people to this thread to learn how they can build their own and save some cash. I'm going to make one myself... nice work guys!
Thanks Alex!
Where the copper fittings are is where I use the sockets from a socket set. I have quite a few sockets obtained over the years from DIY on cars and motorbikes etc.
Ride hard or ride home alone!
(01-24-2010, 10:06 AM)cyclerUK Wrote: Where the copper fittings are is where I use the sockets from a socket set. I have quite a few sockets obtained over the years from DIY on cars and motorbikes etc.
Ah! Now I get it. Sounds like a good idea.
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
Grr. I've just forked out £20 to have my LBS fit a new headset and this thread comes up. Just my luck!
I rather like Tino's and provided I can find some threaded pipe I'll be making one soon. Given a headset press retails over here at about £150 (not sure the exact exchange rate but it's certainly much more than $100) I think I'll be making my own.
Anyone come up with a decent removal tool? I remember seeing one where a guy made two perpendicular cuts down a metal pipe and bent the bottom parts to form lips so he could grip the headset (not a great explanation and I can't find the pictures, sorry).
Headset removal - see jr14's post :-
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-923.html
Me- I just use a long bar instead and knock it out. Work my way around gently if I want to retrieve it.
Ride hard or ride home alone!
I hadn't seen that, thanks!
Will give those a go at some point soon, just got to find the right bits.
Oh that reminds me, for those with a full sus my mate came up with this:
[attachment=816]
A home-made bearing press!
It's an old cup-and-cone axle with an old QR skewer. It uses cones to actually push the bearing in, and a socket to brace it against the frame/linkage. For really awkward small bearings it uses a small socket. The idea being that whatever pushes the bearing into the frame is small enough to fit through the bearing mount. Just make sure that whatever it is is pushing against the outer race to avoid damaging it.
[attachment=817]
This also apparently works on cartridge-bearing hubs like Hope Pro IIs, etc, if you can find the right sockets and a long enough axle.
I use a c-clamp against a steel plate. Works like a charm once its started, because being pressed between to nice flat surfaces, means even if it gets a little uneven, the final turn of the clamp straightens it out no matter what.
Small bearing, small c-clamp, big bearing, big c-clamp.
Nice work though!
*edit* Ah. Now I get it looking at the second pic. This setup probably works better than mine. I think I might make one.
Dedicated scholar of bicycles
Wow, some very cool DIY. I do not recognize the cooper fittings that Tino used. I also use a C clamp or a soft hammer with sockets as drivers to install bearings and races.
To compress shock springs on my motorcycle I made a unit using four bolts and two 4X4 plates with a U notch to go around shock mount and rod.
Ye the screw thread has lots of power.
Never Give Up!!!
Tino's headpress looks brilliant. I love the two copper bits that will keep the cups nice and straight and I'm hoping someone can tell me what they are called, so I can search google and buy two.
Anyone??
I'm on my first project and found this photo. thanks for the tip. I made one slight improvement...I had a tub of 'polymorph' also called friendly plastic. This is the white bits in the photo.
The polymorph is workable at around 68 degrees. It is then it very hard once cooled. Able to mould it around the cups for perfect fit...perfect result.
I think I'll find other uses for the polymorph. Hope this helps some other first timer...
[attachment=4518]
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