Hyper Havoc FS 26"

[cambridge111]

[attachment=4265]
Newbie to bicycles in 30 years. Purchased at Walmart less than one month ago. Like it but the FALCON cassette already slipping. Just ordered socket to take off and checkout. Will a Shimano cassette fit? I think this is Freewheel and wonder if a better brand like Shimano will fit on wheel. I assume if (wheel)threaded they are all one size like the lightbulbs. New experience and little by like will be acquainted again with bikes.

[1FJEF]

Your freewheel swap will work. Just make sure it's not a cassette. You look like a big guy in your avatar, are you crushing the rear suspension? If so exchange it now for a hardtail.

[nfmisso]

I have had poor experience with Shimano freewheels, the last two I tried had uneven cog spacing resulting in being able to align the indexing for one cog, or the other six.

I have had very good experience with Sunrace freewheels:
http://www.amazon.com/SunRace-7-Speed-13-25t-Free-Wheel/dp/B003RLE9X8/

I am a really big guy; and have bent a seat post running that much exposed - the bike looks too small for you.....

[cambridge111]

(06-23-2013, 12:47 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  I have had poor experience with Shimano freewheels, the last two I tried had uneven cog spacing resulting in being able to align the indexing for one cog, or the other six.

I have had very good experience with Sunrace freewheels:
http://www.amazon.com/SunRace-7-Speed-13-25t-Free-Wheel/dp/B003RLE9X8/

I am a really big guy; and have bent a seat post running that much exposed - the bike looks too small for you.....

Thanks for the info. Yes about 220 and max for these bikes is 275 lbs. I ordered the tool to pull the cassette out and see if its just dirty: dont know exactly what is looks like inside: clutch etc. Regardless if I buy another cassette. I was going to try Shimano or other than Falcon. I did email the mfg about it (motiontrendz.com). I have only put like 35 miles on this bike so far.
Appreciate the info. I am new and on a learning curve with this stuff. I will also checkout the Sunrace freewheels. thanks.

[nfmisso]

Hi;

It is highly like that it is a freewheel and not a cassette.

http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html

I am very pleased with the SRAM and DNP cassettes on my bikes if it is a cassette.

[cambridge111]

Yes, you are correct. I keep interchanging the two. I am sure its a freewheel. I assume the cassettes are on more higher end models. I will find out during the week when I receive the tool to remove it. I didn't want to get a screwdriver and pop it back. I just need some patience here. Figured I would have to purchase a few special tools for bike repair or take it to the shop, but like to always try to fix things myself if I can. Thanks for the info and link.
art

[cambridge111]

Okay, I took the Hyper Havoc back to Walmart for a refund. Still eyeballing the other types they carry. Mongoose, Genesis, Titan. Any suggestions? I even saw a 29" bike. That might suit me better but I can live with a 26" mountain bike. I guess my legs are rather long. I am going to wait till Friday when I have more time to sit on them. As for now I know this is Newbie bikes for me and just maybe one day get something a lot better. Thanks for your input so far.

---

[nfmisso]

tell us more about your mechanical skills.... this is the bike repair forum...

Take a look at some our projects: http://forums.bikeride.com/forum-36.html

My current commuter is this:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3167.html
which started as a frame with headset and fork off Craigslist.
my back up is:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3036.html
which started as a frame with headset, bottom bracket and fork off eBay.

My newest bike has a frame from the mid 1990s, my oldest are early 1980s.

What is your trouser inseam? For a road or hybrid bike, subtract 11 inches from your trouser inseam, and that will provide a good starting point for the frame size. For a MTB, subtract 14 inches. These are very ROUGH starting points. Let say your trouser inseam is 32" (for total lack of information), then you should be looking for a road or hybrid bike with a 21" frame or a MTB with a 18" frame.

These look good to me:
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892988680.html
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892880885.html
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3882576003.html

this one would fit me:
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892756654.html
Specialized Hardrock in this condition go for 2x to 4x this price in San Jose.

And what is your budget?

[cambridge111]

(06-24-2013, 11:11 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  tell us more about your mechanical skills.... this is the bike repair forum...

Take a look at some our projects: http://forums.bikeride.com/forum-36.html

My current commuter is this:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3167.html
which started as a frame with headset and fork off Craigslist.
my back up is:
http://forums.bikeride.com/thread-3036.html
which started as a frame with headset, bottom bracket and fork off eBay.

My newest bike has a frame from the mid 1990s, my oldest are early 1980s.

What is your trouser inseam? For a road or hybrid bike, subtract 11 inches from your trouser inseam, and that will provide a good starting point for the frame size. For a MTB, subtract 14 inches. These are very ROUGH starting points. Let say your trouser inseam is 32" (for total lack of information), then you should be looking for a road or hybrid bike with a 21" frame or a MTB with a 18" frame.

These look good to me:
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892988680.html
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892880885.html
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3882576003.html

this one would fit me:
sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892756654.html
Specialized Hardrock in this condition go for 2x to 4x this price in San Jose.

And what is your budget?

Thanks for the info. I will look into it. Waist is about 42/44 and that is overboard to ride a bike. I think those 29ers might suit me better. I do need to read up on how the frame sizing is calculated to get an idea. The budget is around 200 for now.

[nfmisso]

This one should be in your budget after a little negotiation:

http://sanantonio.craigslist.org/bik/3892988680.html

and is far nicer than anything Wal-Mart has ever sold.

Your waist is a bit smaller than mine, and waist size has nothing to do with bicycle sizing.


Tire/wheel size also has very little to do with bike sizing. There are five different rim diameters also known as 26": 559, 571, 584, 590 and 597. See:http://sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html

I am 300+lbs, 5'11" and have bikes with the following rim diameters: 559, 590, 622 and 630. My primary commuter is currently my green GT with 559 rims, my back up is my SR Sierra Sport which currently has 590 rims on it; previously it had 571, but the cost of those tires was prohibitive for me.

[yatesinc]

Hello All,

I'm trying to find some more detailed specifications for my Hyper Havok, don't ask why but I'm having fun exchanging it's junk parts for good parts. I love the frame, it suits my riding style and size perfectly. Anyway I'm trying to find out specs such as seat post size, threaded fork size and tube length, rear suspension size specs, and I am considering making it a single speed if anyone has any recommendations on that. I got this bike to mess around with so thats what I am doing, but I can't find detailed specs to save my life.

[mudkicker78]

I have already started changing this bike from cheap to not to shabby with new rims/drivetrain. Going mostly Shimano.
* Shimano Alivio M11 28-38-48T HyperDrive crankset w/ Matching top pull front derailleur.
* Shimano RD-M410 Alivio SGS Rear Derailleur
* Shimano Tourney 7Spd 14-28T Freewheel
* Alex X101 26x1.75 Rim set
* Michelin County- Rock 26x1.75 Tires
* Shimano Acera X Brake/Gear Lever Combo. EZ fire 21 Speed (Used)
* Kona BMX style pedals (used)

This bike rides nice and smooth. The rims made the biggest change in how hard pedaling is and the change in the drivetrain smoothed it all out. The Country Rock tires reduced rolling resistance and with 70LBS. of pressure has made yet again, the second biggest difference in both handling and pedaling. Not quite bike shop quality considering the front fork shocks moves to easy.
As of right now there were no special modifications as changing forks, But I am doing research and intend on pulling the front fork off to verify the I.D. of the head tube to be 1". This will be awesome if it is since I found http://www.genuinebicycleproducts.com/ which makes a custom headset that allows you to change older and cheaper bikes with a 1" head tube to a 1-1/8" threadless fork. BTW to anyone that says it cannot be done. Looking at my Quill Stem Adapter the 1-1/8" head is smaller then my head tube. This will be the most costly upgrade to my bike with forks costing as much as the bike. Since I already got the Quill Stem Adapter to run a threadless stem. All I will need is the headset and the new fork.

[Painkiller]

as it stands now with the mods, if you do not mind me asking, How much do you have in the bike? And what did the bike list for and what year is it ?

[mudkicker78]

(06-05-2014, 09:08 PM)painkiller Wrote:  as it stands now with the mods, if you do not mind me asking, How much do you have in the bike? And what did the bike list for and what year is it ?

Bike was 130.00 +tax.
Rims and rear cogset were 100.00 from Amazon
front derailleur, rear derailleur and crankset were 85.00 Amazon/ebay
Shimon e-z fire brake/shifter set was 30.00 used
Aluminum Mona BMX pedals were a freebie.
bike was purchased spring 2012. So some time has passed since purchasing it.
It is my baby and it is a "rolling project". I have almost all the answers on this bike.

[Painkiller]

A big improvement from stock for sure, Looks nice too. I am still a CrMo steel rigid frame kinda guy for the most part. But I do have a full suspension for off-road/trail use that is aluminum.

[mudkicker78]

That's cool. I bought the bike because with the rake of the fork so narrow to the frame it resembles something that looks military-ish. Also has tha bobber vibe going on. I have been debating whether or not I actually need a front shock. I dont go off roaring at all. I keep it on the road. But bike trails sometimes can be mixed. Also I haven't seen rigid forks with rear suspension.

[nfmisso]

check out a 1989-1993 Trek 930, 950, 970 or 990 is the same size - the whole bike ready to ride weighs less than you frame (front and rear with rear suspension) WITHOUT the wheels, front suspension, seat, seat post, and handle bars........like this one: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/4486275121.html

[mudkicker78]

I went that route with a Trek 850. And although I liked it. Everyone has Treks in Massachusetts. I like being the odd ball. I made a decision this morning. I want to run a white Mosso 7005 rigid fork. I think it will be cool looking and make everyone scratch their heads and ask why! I also think it will get rid of the bike bobbing down in the nose when im doing 17mph and brake hard. Feels like a horse ready to kick.

[Painkiller]

Thats the problem with low end suspension, pogo sticks! sprung and badly at that with no dampening at all. From a value point of view it seems like a sink hole of cash that would not add to or retain value to the bike. It appears you like to work on bikes and improve them, So with $300 or $400 you are spending on a Dept. store bike why don't you up grade and find a deal on a retro high end bike and refurb that? it would retain value if done correctly and be a far superior ride and overall quality bike, plus last a lifetime and be far better suited for street and commuter style mods. As Nigel has mentioned, 10lbs or more lighter too. I have never done a refurb that I could never break even on or make money on when I was ready to sell. I would be quite impressed If the day after you finished your mods to that bike and sold it for a break even or more. On the same note, if you did. Feel sorry for the person that bought it. Not to be rude mind you. but for that kind of money you could be rolling on some serious nice bikes. Use your skills to better you, your rides, and rides that you may offer someone, plus make it more equitable at the same time. Sounds like you have what it takes to kick it up a knotch!

[mudkicker78]

Like I said where's the fun in that lol. Good thing is my parts can go wherever I put them and I did think about that. But sometimes you like what you got and wouldn't trade it for the world. Thanks for the reply but I like this bike. For me its comfortable, lightness means nothing. I go as fast as my brother-in-law on a way lighter Jamming. Building something isn't always about what its worth. Its about taking pride in what your doing. Sure a more expensive bike will retain 50% of its value. But I put a little in this over 2 years. I dont have 850 to drop on a bike. I one day want to buy a house and on normal people income can't afford to finance everything!