12-05-2012, 01:34 PM
The Bianchi
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(12-05-2012, 10:00 PM)painkiller Wrote: which is better for you is what you mean I think, only you can answer that. One really is not better than the other as which would suit your needs better than the other. If you go with the 23s that would be more for race. less space between the pavement and rim that could translate to more flats and increased chance of rim damage caused by uneven concrete, pot holes etc... 25s would give a bit more meat to play with and still have the race feel and high pressure.
If you want more dependability and tread choices and ease of ownership and self repair then go for the 28s or 32s commonly found on touring or sport hybrids
everyone has an opinion on the brand and size they prefer and I have had good named tires that have crazed,cracked, and crapped out long before they should have in my opinion. So with that said, if you want race go with the 23s and 25s. and if you want good all arounders go with the 28s or 32s of your flavor and affordability.
(12-05-2012, 11:42 PM)nfmisso Wrote: As PK says 28s or 32 - if they will fit.
The number (23/25/28/etc) refers to the nominal width and nominal height of the tire in millimeters. Most bicycle tires are the same width and height - in automotive tire terms they would be call 100 series tires. For example, if bicycle tires were designated in the same way as car tires, a 28-622 would be a: 28/100-622; where a car tire might be a 205/60-16 - the 16 being the bead seat diameter in inches; 205 being the maximum width of the tire in millimeter, and the height of the tire being 60% x 205 = 122.5mm
700c is a designation that once upon a time, in a land far far away related to some real dimension, now it is imaginary. The bead seat diameter for a 700c tire is 622mm. On the tire amongst the many other numbers, you will find something like 28-622; aka ISO or ERTRO size. These numbers are actually associated with measurable dimensions of the wheel and tire.
Bead seat diameter is the diameter in millimeters of the seating surface in the rim where the inner diameter of the tire touches. It is approximately the inner diameter of the tire.
(12-05-2012, 11:47 PM)1FJEF Wrote: "The New Family Member". I thought somebody had a baby!
(12-05-2012, 11:55 PM)Bill Wrote: Very nice addition!
(12-05-2012, 11:47 PM)1FJEF Wrote: "The New Family Member". I thought somebody had a baby!
Well they did... ummm kinda.. sorta..??? To some bikes are their babies.
(12-07-2012, 11:35 AM)Joe_W Wrote: I would guess it is a 7 speed freewheel not a cassette, judging from the overall appearance of the bike (unless it had been upgraded). Then the frame will have 127mm (or so) spacing in the rear (distance between drop outs). New road bike stuff is 130mm. This should in general work, though the rear dérailleur hanger will have to be adjusted (do that anyway). I have had luck with bending open the rear triangle (cold setting) on two steel frames of which one is abused as a cyclocross bike.
In general, if the "wobbles" are not too bad the wheel can be trued. It might have to have some spokes replaced (when nipples have corroded in place), but that's no big deal. The Vuelta wheelsets seem to be ok, I'd say that the 32 spoke wheelset is probably more durable if it has been built properly, that is the spoke tension is high enough and evenly distributed around the wheel. Hard (read: impossible) to tell if that's the case without having the wheels in my hand.
Oh, and bike weight is neglegible when compared to rider weight. Many of us used think otherwise (I guess) but then looked at the numbers (well, I did). Lighter wheels will make a difference though.
(12-07-2012, 08:23 PM)hcjg1 Wrote: Lvely bike and I really like it. If you were in the UK i'd swap you 4 of my bikes for this.
(12-10-2012, 04:06 AM)Joe_W Wrote: Hm. In general a 32 spoke cross 3 hand built wheel is the best all-purpose, all year, non-racing solution, best with actual cup and cone hubs as those can be regreased (and they should be!). The Vueltas look sharp (and I seem to recall it is a decent brand), but on the other hand the others are more "true" to the style of the bike. I have a set of Mavic Aksium wheels (entry level, like the Vueltas) on my road bike, though those have no cup and cone bearings which is what I don't like about them. I guess in your price range this is what you can get. What you could (well, should) do is inspect the wheel bearings (not difficult, just messy the first time) and see if they are still ok. In that case, simply let the wheel be trued and tensioned, a "wobble" is most likely fixable, if it is not too wide and not too... sharp? short? Like, if it is only over two or three spokes.
Nigel may have some things to add, too...