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Question about install SPD-SL Cleats?
#1
Hi there,

I'm new to bicycle shoes. I bought a set of SPD-SL shoes and cleats and want to install them by myself.

I found there are 4 bolts on each shoe when they came and they are not for the SPD-SL cleats. See the picture.

My questions is: Do I need to remove them or just leave them there? I think if I leave them there, they will make the cleats not touching the soles firmly. But when I remove them, the metal plate behind the sole can move freely and make some noise.

Thank you.


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#2
(08-21-2021, 04:16 PM)Bob Fuji Wrote:  Hi there,

I'm new to bicycle shoes. I bought a set of SPD-SL shoes and cleats and want to install them by myself.

I found there are 4 bolts on each shoe when they came and they are not for the SPD-SL cleats. See the picture.

My questions is: Do I need to remove them or just leave them there? I think if I leave them there, they will make the cleats not touching the soles firmly. But when I remove them, the metal plate behind the sole can move freely and make some noise.

Thank you.

If you bought your shoes and cleats new, then there should be some guidance enclosed with them.

The 4 bolts/holes are for SPD mtb cleats (only need 2 bolts, 2 holes for front or rear positioning), and might also fit Speedplay pedals (if not Speedplay has an adaptor plate for the 3 bolt pattern). Unless you got extra bolts for the SPD SL cleats you'll be using 3 of the 4 bolts for mounting the cleats. When you tighten down the cleats it will probably cause that internal plate to be clamped into place due to the pressure applied from the 3 bolts. Not sure about your shoe design, but my shoes, due to the sole depth and cleat type used can require different length bolts which should be enclosed with the product. If the cleats do not sit flush on the sole there are shims available to fit Shimano and non-Shimano shoes and/or to allow you to customize the angle of the shoe to the pedal in order to better them adapt to your own needs. There also may be different cleats (Shimano or off-brand compatible) that allow for differences in float of the foot through your pedal stroke. Your cleat should be mounted so that the ball of your foot is centered (front to back), give or take a little, over the pedal spindle. As with most positional cycling components, you may need to do some minor adjustments during or after initial use (keep a tool handy in your bag); once adjusted to your max comfort mark the position on the soles for future replacement or if they become loose and shift position. I check the tighness before a ride to avoid shifting and/or loss of a bolt. Also, keeping a spare cleat and bolts in your toolbag is not a bad idea either; I cracked a cleat in a remote location under hilly conditions and it made for a very unpleasant ride during climbing and accelerating since my shoe would disengage from the pedal.
I am ReapThaWimpWind and I view the world from a plexiglass window in my lower abdomen because my head is a sigmoidoscope always shoved up my....
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#3
(08-21-2021, 10:57 PM)Jesper Wrote:  
(08-21-2021, 04:16 PM)Bob Fuji Wrote:  Hi there,

I'm new to bicycle shoes. I bought a set of SPD-SL shoes and cleats and want to install them by myself.

I found there are 4 bolts on each shoe when they came and they are not for the SPD-SL cleats. See the picture.

My questions is: Do I need to remove them or just leave them there? I think if I leave them there, they will make the cleats not touching the soles firmly. But when I remove them, the metal plate behind the sole can move freely and make some noise.

Thank you.

If you bought your shoes and cleats new, then there should be some guidance enclosed with them.

The 4 bolts/holes are for SPD mtb cleats (only need 2 bolts, 2 holes for front or rear positioning), and might also fit Speedplay pedals (if not Speedplay has an adaptor plate for the 3 bolt pattern). Unless you got extra bolts for the SPD SL cleats you'll be using 3 of the 4 bolts for mounting the cleats. When you tighten down the cleats it will probably cause that internal plate to be clamped into place due to the pressure applied from the 3 bolts. Not sure about your shoe design, but my shoes, due to the sole depth and cleat type used can require different length bolts which should be enclosed with the product. If the cleats do not sit flush on the sole there are shims available to fit Shimano and non-Shimano shoes and/or to allow you to customize the angle of the shoe to the pedal in order to better them adapt to your own needs. There also may be different cleats (Shimano or off-brand compatible) that allow for differences in float of the foot through your pedal stroke. Your cleat should be mounted so that the ball of your foot is centered (front to back), give or take a little, over the pedal spindle. As with most positional cycling components, you may need to do some minor adjustments during or after initial use (keep a tool handy in your bag); once adjusted to your max comfort mark the position on the soles for future replacement or if they become loose and shift position. I check the tighness before a ride to avoid shifting and/or loss of a bolt. Also, keeping a spare cleat and bolts in your toolbag is not a bad idea either; I cracked a cleat in a remote location under hilly conditions and it made for a very unpleasant ride during climbing and accelerating since my shoe would disengage from the pedal.

Hi Jesper,

Thank you very much for the detail instruction.

The cleats set I bought came with bolts. I removed the 4 bolts coming with the shoes and tried to mount the cleats on the shoes. But when the cleats are mounted on the soles, I can not get them completely locked on the pedals (Shimano PD-R540). I can not hear the sound that shows the cleat has been locked. When I take off the cleats from the soles and lock only the cleats on the pedals, they are very easy to be locked completely. I don't know why. The shoes I bought were off-brand. Maybe It's better to try a pair of Shimano shoes.

Thanks again for your help.

Bob
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