08-22-2008, 01:33 PM
I just got done working on mine (yes on a MTB), and had a few issues/questions from the <a href="http://bikeride.com/sidepull-caliper-brakes/">video</a> and wanted to get some thoughts on it. Perhaps the main question is if I'm running into something a little bit different than what was depicted in the video.
1. At about 1:39 I noticed it was demonstrated to loosen the cable pinch bolt. For my brakes, the spring device (I think I noticed that in the video) would bring up the brake arms to about a 45 degree angle from the wheel if the cable is released. This would mean that I would have to force both brake arms down (and it takes considerable force to do it), center them, and then pull the cable through and tighten it. I watched the video two or three times, and I didn't notice Alex depict pulling them together (I could be wrong though).
Anyhow is there a suggestion on how to handle this well, since I find it essentially a good job for three hands. Or would it be good to maybe tighten the centering/tension nut so the calipers don't move (is that possible?) and then manually put them in the proper positions, string the cable so it is tight, and then loosen the end nut on the assembly?
2. Maybe this is something I'm missing from the language in the video, but I notice that the cable tension, and how far the brake handle goes in on these brakes I worked on depends on the position of the brake pads than the cable tension... at about 1:46 it moves from the cable tension to "this is a personal preference" regarding the brake handles. Of course, with the springs as strong as they are, any loose cable tension would immediately be taken up by the brake arms swinging outward. So is this basically saying what I'm observing?
(other questions)<br />
3. I notice looking down on one set of my brakes that the calipers are not parallel to one another. Is this a problem or something to be expected from caliper brakes? How is this corrected? I notice that the caliper arms are bent around (the whole assembly, really) when the brakes are applied. Would this have caused one of the arms to be bent and require straightening?
4. This, along with the toe-in, causes very odd, irregular wear on the brake pads (which I noticed when I sandpapered them). Any suggestions there on how to address that so the brake pads could be used longer? Or is this normal as well?
5. One thing I notice on these brakes and on a friend's bike as well is that the cable pushes flat, unravels, and even snaps one or two strands of the cable after some use. Is this normal for these kind of brakes, to go through cable so quickly like this? Or is there something that can be done to correct it so the cables would last longer? Or are these just cheap cables that were used?
Thanks for all the help, especially your efforts on the videos, Alex!
1. At about 1:39 I noticed it was demonstrated to loosen the cable pinch bolt. For my brakes, the spring device (I think I noticed that in the video) would bring up the brake arms to about a 45 degree angle from the wheel if the cable is released. This would mean that I would have to force both brake arms down (and it takes considerable force to do it), center them, and then pull the cable through and tighten it. I watched the video two or three times, and I didn't notice Alex depict pulling them together (I could be wrong though).
Anyhow is there a suggestion on how to handle this well, since I find it essentially a good job for three hands. Or would it be good to maybe tighten the centering/tension nut so the calipers don't move (is that possible?) and then manually put them in the proper positions, string the cable so it is tight, and then loosen the end nut on the assembly?
2. Maybe this is something I'm missing from the language in the video, but I notice that the cable tension, and how far the brake handle goes in on these brakes I worked on depends on the position of the brake pads than the cable tension... at about 1:46 it moves from the cable tension to "this is a personal preference" regarding the brake handles. Of course, with the springs as strong as they are, any loose cable tension would immediately be taken up by the brake arms swinging outward. So is this basically saying what I'm observing?
(other questions)<br />
3. I notice looking down on one set of my brakes that the calipers are not parallel to one another. Is this a problem or something to be expected from caliper brakes? How is this corrected? I notice that the caliper arms are bent around (the whole assembly, really) when the brakes are applied. Would this have caused one of the arms to be bent and require straightening?
4. This, along with the toe-in, causes very odd, irregular wear on the brake pads (which I noticed when I sandpapered them). Any suggestions there on how to address that so the brake pads could be used longer? Or is this normal as well?
5. One thing I notice on these brakes and on a friend's bike as well is that the cable pushes flat, unravels, and even snaps one or two strands of the cable after some use. Is this normal for these kind of brakes, to go through cable so quickly like this? Or is there something that can be done to correct it so the cables would last longer? Or are these just cheap cables that were used?
Thanks for all the help, especially your efforts on the videos, Alex!
Why is it that they make adult bikes that'll generally work for 5'9" or above, yet when you pedal these same bikes they only work for someone who is 5'4" or so?