Have questions or want to discuss cycling? Join Now or Sign In to participate in the BikeRide community.

New: Take Part in the February Giveaway for a Chance to Win 2x METRO Hybrid Bikes

Weird shifting problem with RD 105 9-speed
My bike is new (~300 Km) full Shimano 105 9 speed front 53-39 and back 12-25. But it has been stayed in bike shop 3 year before I buy it.
I am having a problem shifting at the end of cassette (to smallest cog) while I am on the big ring. When I'm on the road, shifting is sloppy and won't shift at all from 13 to 12 cogs. Sometimes I have the same problem in shifting from 15-13 cog. When it's in the stand or when I am on road very ease on pedal, shifting is perfect, works how it's supposed to, and I can't detect any problems. When I'm in the small ring, shifting is just fine. It's only the big ring where I am having trouble.
I have taken the bike to LBS to fix it after reading many posts here where I found to check the hanger alignment and I have insisted they check the hanger alignment. They correct the hanger aliment (and check other things) but the problem exists.
I visited techdocs.shimano.com before and download FD and RD docs. I tune FD and RD without problem (I have two another bikes and there is no problem in tuning FD and RD).
The problem is weird because is appear only under load on road but no in the stand or when I am on road very ease on pedal. I can shift from 13 to 12 cog but I need to tap two time shifter to make click and drop from 13 to 12 cog.
I have try to loosened H limiter screwes a little but without success.
Any ideas where to look next?

Hmmm, that sounds very frustrating. I'd try <a href="http://bikeride.com/lube-brake-shift-cables/">lubing the cables</a> as they could be a bit stiff. Let us know if that helps...

I have lubed the cable but the problem remain.
I suspect that my rear mech may have a weak return spring. How can I check it and how to replace?

I could be wrong, but in my experience the spring is near impossible to replace, as most derailleur bodies are assembled with rivots. If that's the case I would try a new derailleur. Then at least you'll know it was the derailleur causing the problem.

Your last statement ("I can shift from 13 to 12 cog but I need to tap two time shifter to make click and drop from 13 to 12 cog.") is a little confusing, but might point to the problem. If you have to click the shifter "twice" to go from 13 to 12, then the cable tension is misadjusted and you should also have trouble getting to you largest rear cog. If you are in the 13, you souldn't be able to click twice, you should only have one click remaining on the shifter. But maybe I am misunderstanding your description and you'd think the shop would have caught that.

I am going to explain again. And I am sorry for my not "good" English.

Shift from larger (13t) to smaller (12t) sprocket is done by pushing lever B (describe by Shimano tech doc) from right to left side. Near the end of the traveling there is a sound (click) and the shifting is done.

This normal operation is when my bike is on stand or when I pedaling very easy on road.

I made traveling the lever B from right to the end of left side BUT there is no sound (click) and hence there is no shifting. Then I release lever B and it goes to initial (right side) position. After that I again push the lever B AND at the very beginning of the traveling there is a sound (click). Shifting is now done.

This problematic operation is when I ride my bike on road. In the appendix I send four picture for commenting shift housing length.

What you describe sounds like a problem in the ratchet in the shifter. But I would expect that to show up on the stand and not just on the road. You should get the 'click' of the shifter when you move the lever even if the derailleur doesn't shift the chain.
This is going to be tough to diagnose without having the bike there. Maybe it's time to try a new mechanic. If the shop where you bought the bike is telling you it's fine and won't help anymore, ask around if someone can recommend another good shop in town. Sometimes a fresh set of eyes will catch something. Be sure to tell them that the problem only shows up on the road under pedaling load.
Your cables look fine.
Sorry - good luck

I have solved the problem and thank you all to participate in solving the problem. I hope this could help you if you face the similar problem.

The housing near RD was bended immediately upon leaving the barrel adjuster. This was actually bending the housing end cap. The first image show how was before.

When I put the housing below quick release axle the housing near RD is not bended immediately upon leaving the barrel adjuster. See the second image.
Yes this is temporary solution and I need a longer housing in this case allows the housing to enter straight.

Thanks for the photos... I wouldn't worry too much about the bend at the housing cap. The cable has better flow that way, as opposed to being tucked under the quick release which looks like it's causing to sharp of a curve.


Possibly Related Threads...

Forum Jump:

10 Latest Posts
Flat Repair Tools
Yesterday 11:08 PM
New Wheel Question
Yesterday 10:54 PM
Please help! Identifying this ol' gal.
Yesterday 12:53 AM
1990 Specialized Rockhopper How to Fluff...
02-26-2024 10:07 PM
How to keep your bicycle safe?
02-26-2024 03:31 AM
Top 3 Bibshorts in terms of value
02-26-2024 03:07 AM
Why do spokes break?
02-25-2024 10:35 PM
New Wheel Question
02-25-2024 10:32 PM
Hello to all. I a just introducing mysel...
02-25-2024 10:29 PM
Chain sits on top of chainring when shif...
02-25-2024 10:16 PM

Join BikeRide on Strava
Feel free to join if you are on Strava: www.strava.com/clubs/bikeridecom

Top 5 Posters This Month
no avatar 1. GirishH
27 posts
no avatar 2. enkei
23 posts
no avatar 3. ReapThaWhirlwind
15 posts
no avatar 4. meamoantonio
14 posts
no avatar 5. Painkiller
13 posts