7 broken spokes later... grabbing freehub !!

[!TREK4ME!]

I checked all my bike wheels, including the road bikes(700c) and they have 2.0 spokes on all of them. I haven't had any trouble with them(nocking on wood). It has got to be just cheap spokes and a better quality spoke should do the trick along with the next size up, right??
What do you guys think??
There's no way I'm going to be able to afford to spend $200+ on a rear wheel build per bike... I'll just have to start walking or keep ordering from amazon like 1FJEF said.

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For 135mm: Wheelmaster 40H hub, Velocity Aeroheat 26" 40 h Blk Ano/Sil Sided rim, Wheelsmith SS14 spokes 252 (non drive) and 250 (drive side) mm, Wheelsmith 12mm nickel plated brass nipples.
[/quote]

How much??

[!TREK4ME!]

For 135mm: Wheelmaster 40H hub, Velocity Aeroheat 26" 40 h Blk Ano/Sil Sided rim, Wheelsmith SS14 spokes 252 (non drive) and 250 (drive side) mm, Wheelsmith 12mm nickel plated brass nipples.
[/quote]

Where do you get this at??

[!TREK4ME!]

Thanks guys for the help !!

[nfmisso]

(11-05-2013, 12:01 AM)!TREK4ME! Wrote:  For 135mm: Wheelmaster 40H hub, Velocity Aeroheat 26" 40 h Blk Ano/Sil Sided rim, Wheelsmith SS14 spokes 252 (non drive) and 250 (drive side) mm, Wheelsmith 12mm nickel plated brass nipples.

Where do you get this at??

parts from Amazon, then build. This is now my standard recipe for 559 rear wheels, for 622, substitute Velocity Dyad rims (same extrusion) and longer spokes. We have the 622 on our T50 tandem. The Dyad rims were so much faster to build and true than all the other rims that I have tried that I am going use them only in the future.

SS14 spokes are 2.0mm in diameter. (about $25 for 50 on Amazon)

DH13 spokes are 2.3mm in diameter near the bend and 2.0mm for the rest. (harder to find, usually around $55 for 36)

Please note that the MOST important thing is the quality of the build - high tension, stress relief - results in a very long lasting wheel, the quality of the spokes are secondary. That said, I use Wheelsmith spokes exclusively - they have a 'W' on the ends.

[!TREK4ME!]

Awesome !!... Thanks Nigel !!!

[!TREK4ME!]

Just an update...
I took the plunge and replaced the spokes on the wheel that kept breaking spokes. I'm addicted.... took a lot of patience, but it looks like I licked it. Rode 40 miles on the relaced wheel and no broken spokes. Whew !!!!!
I'm not sure what spoke brand I used, but they have a "N" on the hub end. Took these spokes from a wheel I had laying around that I was saving the hub for. The rim was toast, so I decided to use the spokes.
I'm ready to try my 700c spoke relacing, now...
Thanks again for all the help !!!,
PJ

[Joe_W]

Hm... reusing spokes is a bit of a difficult point. I would probably not do it, as I am not sure how well it was built and where it has been. There are many wheelbuilders who will only reuse spokes from their own builds. Maybe Nigel can chime in with some metallurgical / mechanical comments.

That said:
Congratulations! Looks like we've got a new addict here... though I have to admit I just bought a new pair of wheels *blushes*

[nfmisso]

I have only once re-used spokes; transferred the DH13 from the drive side to the non-drive side, and put new DH13 on the drive side.

Normally, if I am rebuilding a wheel, I just cut all the spokes.

[WinterRider]

You don't want a solvent in the freewheel.. hard to completely drain it.. meaning that remainder raises heck with whatever light oil applied as a followup.

Run a good dose of liquid wrench in... give it a few spins. Let it sit... will solve most all stubborn screw on's.

Liquid wrench.. also is one of the best chain lubes.. by miles. Best applied after the ride.. let it soak in. Lubes the pins.. prevents them from rusting. Chains last MUCH longer. Chain lubes are a marketing game.. just like the majority of bike component selling.

The spoke breakage mantra is just that.. often true.. often not. Often spokes break due to NO maintenance.. some go loose and the cascading loss of tension effect breaks them. Left side rears are the main culprit. IF you stay with traditional lacing forms... get ALL the NDS rear above 60 kgf.. all of them. Or glue the nipples with locker or after the build. 60 kgf normally is above the 'they'll shake loose zone'.. which starts the trouble issues.