Have questions or want to discuss cycling? Join Now or Sign In to participate in the BikeRide community.

Best Black Friday E-Bike Deals 2024 | Up to $1,700 in Savings

New: Take Part in the November Giveaway: Starts November 18th


Need help with new trike to me
#1
Hello Everyone,

This my first post on this forum. My name is Jake and I am from South FL. I just recently bought a tricycle for $50.00 from someone who had it sitting in their back yard for quite some time. Been riding it for a month and yesterday, the chain snapped. I decided to go ahead and replace the chain and anything else that the trike may need.I have some images to upload but have not been able to figure out exactly how to upload them. When I click on the insert image icon up above it does nothing. The upload photo option below did not work for me either. It appeared to be uploading, however, after it was done, there was no attechment in sight. Please excuse my ignorance. All the pictures I have to attach are between 2-6 megabytes each. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Jack
  Reply
#2
Welcome Jake. You can try putting the photos on anther server and post a link here
Have fun and just enjoy the ride
  Reply
#3
(07-22-2013, 04:54 PM)FredS Wrote:  Welcome Jake. You can try putting the photos on anther server and post a link here

Ok guys, I found a site that will host my pictures.


[Image: 20130722_123623.jpg][Image: 20130722_123648.jpg][Image: 20130722_123544.jpg] [Image: 20130722_123516.jpg]

A guy in a YouTUBE video, who displays the same model, calls it a California Cruiser, however, other than that, I don't have any more information about it since there are no stickers or numbers on it.

[Image: 20130722_123808.jpg]

Here is a close up of the drivetrain that I would like to know more about? Are these common? The drive wheel has significant resistance when I spin it. Is a bearing the likely culprit?

[Image: 20130722_123854.jpg]

Here is a close up of the rear breaking system. It appears to be some sort of drum type. Are these brake systems common ?

[Image: 20130722_134241.jpg]

Another shot that details even more parts.

[Image: 20130722_175042.jpg]

Drive side of axle. Some sort of pin for drive system. Drive wheel comes up to that bearing. There is some rust do deal with.

[Image: 20130722_175126.jpg]

Drive wheel with knotch for pin. Sometimes when I ride it, a gear is skipped , (when I am pedalling) I thought it was the chain? However, now I am beginning to wonder if its this worn out pin?

Can anyone tell me a little bit about this trike and give me your thoughts on some of my concerns from above? Would also like to know about era, brand, how common they are, parts availability, etc... I need to replace both rear wheels. They are badly bent. Probably replace all bearings, and do some maintenance to the rear breaks, and in general, overhaul, the entire drive system so it rides smooth. Any of your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.


Jake
  Reply
#4
I would say the skip you felt was probably the chain jumping a tooth on the rear gear. If the back wheels spin freely and are smooth I would leave them alone since they look like sealed bearings. Have the front wheel bearings cleaned and re-lubed, brakes adjusted and a new chain should get you going.
Have fun and just enjoy the ride
  Reply
#5
Torque is transmitted to the rear wheels by a Woodruff Key, as shown in the photo one up from the bottom. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_%28engineering%29#Woodruff_keys

The brake is a band brake, common on go karts 40 years ago. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_brake If it is not properly adjusted, it is likely the source of the resistance you are feeling.

Wheels - the hubs look useable, 28 spokes is pretty common number for a rim. What size are the rear tires? Pretty easy to build up new wheels with your present hubs and new spokes.

As Fred said, leave the bearings alone.
Nigel
  Reply
#6
(07-22-2013, 09:04 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  Torque is transmitted to the rear wheels by a Woodruff Key, as shown in the photo one up from the bottom. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Key_%28engineering%29#Woodruff_keys

The brake is a band brake, common on go karts 40 years ago. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Band_brake If it is not properly adjusted, it is likely the source of the resistance you are feeling.

Wheels - the hubs look useable, 28 spokes is pretty common number for a rim. What size are the rear tires? Pretty easy to build up new wheels with your present hubs and new spokes.

As Fred said, leave the bearings alone.

Hi Nigel,

The rear wheels, as well as the front are "24 x "1.75. I like the idea of building new wheels with my existing hubs. Can you point me in the right direction ?


thanks,

Jake
  Reply
#7
Hi Jake:

Read, then measure your current rims:
http://sheldonbrown.com/rim-sizing.html

Based on the tire size, most likely you have 507mm B.S.D. rims. It may be a bit to find that size rim with 28H drilling. Are you set on restoring, or turning it into a nice riding trike? Would you consider different size wheels and tires? 540mm, 28H rims are available, as are tires - the overall diameter will be the same as you have now, but the tires will be narrower.
Nigel
  Reply
#8
Hi Jake,

Interested in turning it into a smooth riding and reliable tricycle. Having said that, I am definitely willing to switch over to the rim and tires you specify if need be. Did not measure rims yet, however, noticed that the walls of both hubs are bent. Attached is a picture of one of them. Can you take a look at the pic and let me know what you think? If need be, I am prepared to find new hubs that would fit.

[Image: 20130723_190820.jpg]


Thanks again for all of your help.

Jake
  Reply
#9
uurgh - that is definitely a problem.

First, find hubs or make hubs ... 32 spokes have more options.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Making-Trike-Hub-Flanges-Without-a-Lathe/
the above is interesting; though there are a couple things that could be done much more effectively with the same tools. If you decide to try, let's discuss.

Is there a step in the axle outside of the bearings? Can't tell for the picture if it dirt or a step. What are all the letters/numbers on the rubber seals of the bearings? From that we can get the exact size.

And what is your budget?
Nigel
  Reply
#10
Hi Jake,

Took a look at the link that you provided for me to evaluate the idea of building my own hubs. The concept is very interesting. From the way I understood it, it's a one piece unit; the axel and hub, all together. That would make for a very strong drive train indeed. Open to the idea of it for sure. What are the downsides if any? How about if the wheels ever needed to be trued again? What other options do we have? Unfortunately, as much as I like the idea, I am not set up, nor do I have the skills to be content with the end product. Would this be something that you could possibly assist me with?

[Image: 20130724_115219.jpg]

This is the side where the woodruff key(not visible from that angle) is. There does appear to be a step. Not sure if that is from wear or the factory. Never-the-less, there are 2 identification codes for the bearing, 6203RS and LY0B or LYOB. I believe the measurement specs in millimeters are 17X40X12.

[Image: 20130724_115157.jpg]

This is the other side. The axel spins on this side as well, however, there is no woodruff key, and there is a bearing on the hub. I do have a budget for this.


Thanks again


Jake
  Reply
#11
Hi Jake;

I would not suggest copying the concept exactly and changing your current axles; I would suggest making up hubs from the two plates as shown, then attaching those plates to a short tube, not an axle. The hubs would fit on your present axles.

Only one key, indicates that only that wheel is driven, the other one transmits a bit of torque with friction only.

Assisting you - if you are local, sure come on over.

Do you have calipers or a micrometer to measure the diameter of the axle outside of the bearing?

I agree with you on the bearing size.

Budget?
Nigel
  Reply
#12
(07-24-2013, 10:37 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  Hi Jake;

I would not suggest copying the concept exactly and changing your current axles; I would suggest making up hubs from the two plates as shown, then attaching those plates to a short tube, not an axle. The hubs would fit on your present axles.

Only one key, indicates that only that wheel is driven, the other one transmits a bit of torque with friction only.

Assisting you - if you are local, sure come on over.

Do you have calipers or a micrometer to measure the diameter of the axle outside of the bearing?

I agree with you on the bearing size.

Budget?

Hi Nigel

I don't have calipers or a micrometer but I will ask around and see what I can get my hands on.

I wish I could, however, I live in Florida, so coming over is certainly beyond my budget right now, however, maybe we can work something out by working Fed Ex. I was hoping to spend maybe like around $300 on fabrication (this depends on what actual work is done for me and is negotiable) to get it going again. You can send me a pm if you want to give me your contact info, or I could pm you with my info. Let me know what you can do. I am certain that I can provide you with all the information that you need.

Thanks

Jake
  Reply
#13
Hello to all,

Here are some more pictures of my project. I decided to go ahead and remove the axle. 3 out of the 4 bearings spun freely. I ordered the 4 bearings and they will be replaced. May need to take the axle to a shop for measurements. The band brake is also causing some resistance to the axle and will somehow need to be adjusted.

[Image: 20130726_135012.jpg]

Here is a picture with the axle and other parts removed. Everything will be cleaned and lubed before going back on.

[Image: 20130726_135045.jpg]

Discovered more rust previously not visible. More evidence that this thing sat outside for some time.


[Image: 20130726_153241.jpg]

This bearing does not spin free like the other 3.

That's all for now.

Jake
  Reply
#14
keep'em coming jake, looking good. are you planning on a repaint? If you do trick it out with some Glow in the dark clearcoat!
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
  Reply
#15
(07-27-2013, 10:57 AM)painkiller Wrote:  keep'em coming jake, looking good. are you planning on a repaint? If you do trick it out with some Glow in the dark clearcoat!

very interesting, I looked into it, and I like the idea. It's not in my budget for right now, however, I will put it on my list of possible future upgrades.


[Image: 20130727_160653.jpg]

New bearings are in. I only needed 4, however, it was cheaper to buy 10.

[Image: 20130727_112428.jpg]

The band brake has too much corrosion to attempt a clean up. I have been looking online for them, but all I can find are similar ones for scooters and go karts. I may be able to adapt one of those, however, I would prefer to find something closer to the original. Does anyone know of any source for one?

Jake
  Reply
#16
(07-27-2013, 04:45 PM)jakelite Wrote:  .......

[Image: 20130727_112428.jpg]

The band brake has too much corrosion to attempt a clean up. I have been looking online for them, but all I can find are similar ones for scooters and go karts. I may be able to adapt one of those, however, I would prefer to find something closer to the original. Does anyone know of any source for one?

Jake

Do you know anyone with a sand blaster? Or if you going to do more of this, purchase one from HF:
http://www.harborfreight.com/portable-abrasive-blaster-kit-37025.html
needs an air compressor too:
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-1-2-half-hp-10-gallon-125-psi-air-compressor-67708.html

Or look on YELP or similar for local businesses that do sand blasting or plating. A plating company can remove the rust; and then I would suggest electroless nickel plating the part(s).
Nigel
  Reply
#17
Hello to All,

Noticed that the new bearings just received have a lot of drag. When spun with finger, they bearly spin for a full revolution. It almost feels as if they have too much lube inside. Do they need to be broken in?

Thanks again,



Jake
  Reply
#18
broken a little bit; those bearings are fine; Wheel bearings Don' t spin too freely.
Nigel
  Reply
#19
(07-28-2013, 12:54 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  broken a little bit; those bearings are fine; Wheel bearings Don' t spin too freely.




[Image: 20130729_120501.jpg]

New bearings are in. Working behind the scenes to make other progress in the project.
Will report back soon.


Jake
  Reply
#20
Hello to All,

New rims finally arrived today....

[Image: 20130814_135746.jpg] [Image: 20130814_135952.jpg]

I like these rims, they are light, they seem strong, and were inexpensive. Just perfect for my project



Jake
  Reply


Forum Jump:

[-]
10 Latest Posts
Recording Bike Rides
Yesterday 01:37 AM
Ketone Ester $$$
11-19-2024 01:04 AM
Trek domane tyre
11-18-2024 01:58 PM
Old fossil buys Ebike
11-17-2024 06:39 AM
Bike bus
11-17-2024 12:14 AM
Second wheelset for ebike.
11-16-2024 08:20 PM
Humber "Eiffel Safety" bike 1800s
11-16-2024 03:05 PM
Moving in Style: Beyond Regular Transpor...
11-15-2024 03:01 PM
Great UK Cycle Camping Map, For E-Bikes,...
11-10-2024 06:55 AM
Cycling is Anti-Aging, But There's a Cat...
11-10-2024 06:48 AM

[-]
Join BikeRide on Strava
Feel free to join if you are on Strava: www.strava.com/clubs/bikeridecom

[-]
Top 5 Posters This Month
no avatar 1. Jesper
22 posts
no avatar 2. enkei
20 posts
no avatar 3. GirishH
14 posts
no avatar 4. ReapThaWhirlwind
11 posts
no avatar 5. Flowrider
11 posts