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Freehub problem
#1
The pedal is able to move forward but the rear wheel doesn't turn. I was riding outside in really cold weather and I think it somehow has an effect on my hub. Then ended taking the train back. Brought my bike home after 2 hours I check my bike again and the pedal is able to move forward but this time the rear wheel is turning. This is strange. It feels like one spot where it sorts of makes the chain skips but the chain is not really skipping on the cog or chain-ring. It's definitely the inside of the freehub that have something that is making it skip.

Any know what is wrong and how to fix it??

My other question is this bike I have is multi-speed converted into single speed using chain tensioner. So it's using a freehub cassette. I been swapping cogs on and off testing out gear ratios.

Does taking off the lock-ring and putting the lock-ring back have anything to do with stripping or damaging the freehub ?? I feel like sometimes I over tighten the lock-ring and sometimes I tighten it just right.
  Reply
#2
(01-24-2013, 08:57 PM)SimonLee Wrote:  The pedal is able to move forward but the rear wheel doesn't turn. I was riding outside in really cold weather and I think it somehow has an effect on my hub. Then ended taking the train back. Brought my bike home after 2 hours I check my bike again and the pedal is able to move forward but this time the rear wheel is turning. This is strange.

No, this is normal. Old oil + gunk + cold = pawls in the freehub cannot move freely. On some freehubs you can disassemble, clean, lube, and finally reassemble the mechanism (eg. Mavic and I believe Zipp). You probably need to do this, or maybe try to flush it out with some sort of solvent. Depends on the hub what can be done.

Quote:It feels like one spot where it sorts of makes the chain skips but the chain is not really skipping on the cog or chain-ring. It's definitely the inside of the freehub that have something that is making it skip.

This would be the pawls in the ratchet mechanism not engaging fully. Then they will slip and you get these "jumps".

[/quote]
My other question is this bike I have is multi-speed converted into single speed using chain tensioner. So it's using a freehub cassette. I been swapping cogs on and off testing out gear ratios.

Does taking off the lock-ring and putting the lock-ring back have anything to do with stripping or damaging the freehub ?? I feel like sometimes I over tighten the lock-ring and sometimes I tighten it just right.
[/quote]

Use a torque wrench mate! But in general: If you have a freehub the lock ring has nothing to do with the innards. It screws on the hub body and cannot affect the ratchet mechanism inside.
  Reply
#3
The hub that my bike has is called Shimano AceraX.

What type of solvent can you recommend me??

And how do I flush the hub? Do I lay the wheel down on floor with the free hub body facing up and just pour the solvent and let it soak down into the hub??

How long I have to wait when I flush it??

Thanks!!

(01-25-2013, 03:40 AM)Joe_W Wrote:  
(01-24-2013, 08:57 PM)SimonLee Wrote:  The pedal is able to move forward but the rear wheel doesn't turn. I was riding outside in really cold weather and I think it somehow has an effect on my hub. Then ended taking the train back. Brought my bike home after 2 hours I check my bike again and the pedal is able to move forward but this time the rear wheel is turning. This is strange.

No, this is normal. Old oil + gunk + cold = pawls in the freehub cannot move freely. On some freehubs you can disassemble, clean, lube, and finally reassemble the mechanism (eg. Mavic and I believe Zipp). You probably need to do this, or maybe try to flush it out with some sort of solvent. Depends on the hub what can be done.

Quote:It feels like one spot where it sorts of makes the chain skips but the chain is not really skipping on the cog or chain-ring. It's definitely the inside of the freehub that have something that is making it skip.

This would be the pawls in the ratchet mechanism not engaging fully. Then they will slip and you get these "jumps".
My other question is this bike I have is multi-speed converted into single speed using chain tensioner. So it's using a freehub cassette. I been swapping cogs on and off testing out gear ratios.

Does taking off the lock-ring and putting the lock-ring back have anything to do with stripping or damaging the freehub ?? I feel like sometimes I over tighten the lock-ring and sometimes I tighten it just right.
[/quote]

Use a torque wrench mate! But in general: If you have a freehub the lock ring has nothing to do with the innards. It screws on the hub body and cannot affect the ratchet mechanism inside.
[/quote]
  Reply
#4
[quote='SimonLee' pid='25956' dateline='1359212044']
The hub that my bike has is called Shimano AceraX.
[quote='Joe_W' pid='25935' dateline='1359099636']

A Shimano AceraX 7 speed freehub is about $20 last time I checked, but they were getting harder to find. If you flush it out with solvent, you're going to want to service the bearings. You can try Aerosol brake cleaner from wal mart, about $3 per can. If you've got any Kano Kroil that'll work. I'm not a WD 40 fan, but if you've got some......
I haven't seen the shimano freehub take down tool for sale for years, so you can't get fresh grease down in there after you flush it, you'll just have to pour some tri flo or something in there. In fact, tri flo may help flush it a bit too.
  Reply
#5
I tried using WD-40. I hope it won't make it worst will it?? So far it looks like the pawls inside are getting free and now there is no more skipping. I hope it stays like this for the next few days.

(01-26-2013, 01:21 PM)1FJEF Wrote:  [quote='SimonLee' pid='25956' dateline='1359212044']
The hub that my bike has is called Shimano AceraX.
[quote='Joe_W' pid='25935' dateline='1359099636']

A Shimano AceraX 7 speed freehub is about $20 last time I checked, but they were getting harder to find. If you flush it out with solvent, you're going to want to service the bearings. You can try Aerosol brake cleaner from wal mart, about $3 per can. If you've got any Kano Kroil that'll work. I'm not a WD 40 fan, but if you've got some......
I haven't seen the shimano freehub take down tool for sale for years, so you can't get fresh grease down in there after you flush it, you'll just have to pour some tri flo or something in there. In fact, tri flo may help flush it a bit too.
  Reply
#6
Hm. WD40 is a short term remedy at best and a recipe for failure in the long run. It has the nasty property that it leaves a residue that gums up. On teh freehub body: aren't most (all?) Shimano freehub bodys compatible? Or is the main problem here that it is a 7 speed that is a bit narrower than the current 9 speeds? Replacing with a new freehub body plus some spacers might work, I guess. If the frame can accommodate the additional 3mm or so of width.
  Reply
#7
Now that I have WD40 and you said it will leave residue that gumps up. what other stuff would you use? I don't want my hub to fail in the long run either.

Thanks tp everyone who helped!!


(01-27-2013, 03:46 PM)Joe_W Wrote:  Hm. WD40 is a short term remedy at best and a recipe for failure in the long run. It has the nasty property that it leaves a residue that gums up. On teh freehub body: aren't most (all?) Shimano freehub bodys compatible? Or is the main problem here that it is a 7 speed that is a bit narrower than the current 9 speeds? Replacing with a new freehub body plus some spacers might work, I guess. If the frame can accommodate the additional 3mm or so of width.
  Reply
#8
You need a 7 speed freehub if that's what's on there now.
If the "long run" is a concern I would suggest a new freehub. Tri flow or just more WD 40 should get you by for now.
You could also watch out for a new/used Single Speed wheel on sale.
  Reply
#9
any other options besides tri flow??

(01-28-2013, 12:28 AM)1FJEF Wrote:  You need a 7 speed freehub if that's what's on there now.
If the "long run" is a concern I would suggest a new freehub. Tri flow or just more WD 40 should get you by for now.
You could also watch out for a new/used Single Speed wheel on sale.
  Reply
#10
Ideally you should replace your free-hub.
There are two kinds of people in the world, "Those who help themselves to people, and those who help people!"
  Reply
#11
(01-24-2013, 08:57 PM)SimonLee Wrote:  The pedal is able to move forward but the rear wheel doesn't turn. I was riding outside in really cold weather and I think it somehow has an effect on my hub. Then ended taking the train back. Brought my bike home after 2 hours I check my bike again and the pedal is able to move forward but this time the rear wheel is turning. This is strange. It feels like one spot where it sorts of makes the chain skips but the chain is not really skipping on the cog or chain-ring. It's definitely the inside of the freehub that have something that is making it skip.

Any know what is wrong and how to fix it??

My other question is this bike I have is multi-speed converted into single speed using chain tensioner. So it's using a freehub cassette. I been swapping cogs on and off testing out gear ratios.

Does taking off the lock-ring and putting the lock-ring back have anything to do with stripping or damaging the freehub ?? I feel like sometimes I over tighten the lock-ring and sometimes I tighten it just right.

I have the same problem my rear cassette is loose i pedal forward but the rear wheel dont move is loose the cassette Sad what i t can be
  Reply


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