Tire Liner Issue, Mr.Tuffy Ultralight Brown

[1FJEF]

I have 2 Mr.Tuffy Ultralight Brown liners (for big 26" tires). I can't return them.
Here we go:

1) The ribbed side faces out to contact the tire, the smooth rubber side towards the tube? That's the way they're packaged.

2) The overlap, or extra "tail", does it trail the direction of rotation or lead into it.

3) Mr.Tuffys ends are cut straight, should I cut them in a curved shape like Rhinoliners or Stop Flat2s? Should this cut be made with a bevel? If so which way, tapered towards the outside or inside of the tire?

4) These suckers are coated is greasy lubricant which I'm guessing is supposed to allow a little movement between the liner/tire/tube. Should I leave this sex wax on, or do I remove it & use talc powder instead?

5) I've been warned to keep a little over minimum pressure in the balloon tires I'm using (26 x 2.35" or 2.5") to avoid the liners wandering around and wreaking havoc with the side of the tube or valve stem. Anyone have experience with this?

6) I'm concerned with flats from the liner overlap area. I'm going to add a cut piece of innertube in a sheet big enough to act as an extra protection layer between tube & liner for the length of the overlap. Anyone try this?

Thanks guys. By the way, when you call Mr.Tuffy you get an answering machine! I should have paid attention to Nigel, who seems to like Stop Flat 2s.
I tell you, the Maxxis Hookworm 26 x 2.5" seems really delicate & flat prone. I'm going to have to put an old one back on as I can't afford another Schwalbe Big Apple right now.

[nfmisso]

1) The ribbed side faces out to contact the tire, the smooth rubber side towards the tube? That's the way they're packaged.

Yes, smooth towards the tube.

2) The overlap, or extra "tail", does it trail the direction of rotation or lead into it.

I never bothered checking

3) Mr.Tuffys ends are cut straight, should I cut them in a curved shape like Rhinoliners or Stop Flat2s? Should this cut be made with a bevel? If so which way, tapered towards the outside or inside of the tire?

I would not cut.

4) These suckers are coated is greasy lubricant which I'm guessing is supposed to allow a little movement between the liner/tire/tube. Should I leave this sex wax on, or do I remove it & use talc powder instead?

Leave it on, talc can be worse, especially when it gets imbedded and turns the system into a sanding block.

5) I've been warned to keep a little over minimum pressure in the balloon tires I'm using (26 x 2.35" or 2.5") to avoid the liners wandering around and wreaking havoc with the side of the tube or valve stem. Anyone have experience with this?

Makes sense. I always have the wheel/tire/tube assemblies inflated, or not assembled.

6) I'm concerned with flats from the liner overlap area. I'm going to add a cut piece of innertube in a sheet big enough to act as an extra protection layer between tube & liner for the length of the overlap. Anyone try this?

Haven't tried it, on Stop Flats 2 - not required, on Slime brand liners, definitly required if not using Thorn Resistant tubes - and even then....

Thanks guys. By the way, when you call Mr.Tuffy you get an answering machine! I should have paid attention to Nigel, who seems to like Stop Flat 2s.

aaahhh shucks

[GeorgeET]

Wow all that and you will still get a flat if you hit a sharp pointy object. I carry a spare tube with me. If you got it you wont need it, murphy's 4th law. :-)

[1FJEF]

(10-21-2012, 06:22 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Wow all that and you will still get a flat if you hit a sharp pointy object. I carry a spare tube with me. If you got it you wont need it, murphy's 4th law. :-)

Yeah, it's just the Hookworm 26 x 2.5" are real delicate (for me) and it's what I've got. So I want to at least try something.

I'm surprised you don't have an opinion on which way the overlap should go, into or with the rotation.
The corners are kinda "sharpish" on the ends of these liners, thats why I thought about rounding them & the extra innertube layer in their immediate proximity.