Getting tire off - very stubborn

[nfmisso]

I need at least one bright idea for this problem.

info:
Rim is Sun ME14 ISO 571
tire is a Terry PT 28-571 made by Panaracer
tube is Avenir Thorn Resistant (ISO559) 26 x 1.25 - 1.75 (fits very snuggly ) presta valve
liner is a Stop Flats 2
normally inflated to ~125psi (850 KPa)

issue:
I let all the air out of the tire, but can't get a tire iron under the bead to pop the tire off the wheel. There are agressive bead hook features in the extrusion of the rim, the tube is thick and stiff, and the tire liner is adding to the stiffness and strength.

An ideas ???

[Painkiller]

try sticking the tire lever in with the air out completly as far as you can while holding it in and pushing have someone else inflate the tire till the bead pops on your lever then let the air back out while keeping the lever in place

[RobAR]

Hey Nigel. Wheels with TR tubes and liners combined are a big headache (and thumbache) for me and I always think of charging a customer more for repair but, being a softy, I never do. As I'm sure you are aware, certain tire / rim combos can only compound the frustration. You also know about getting the bead as deep as possible into the rim well, I'm certain.

I do understand the reasoning behind the 'double protection' but, IMO, if it's that difficult to get the tire off in the comfort of an air-conditioned house or bike shop, how many curse words will be uttered on an August afternoon by the side of the road with no tree for shade? Flats are simply a part of cycling and we need to be prepared for the Eventual. I guess you can tell how I feel about it!?

I use nylon levers for 99.9% of my jobs but, I keep a set of steel levers on hand for the really stubborn people ,,, I mean,,, jobs. I also have a spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of Dawn soap and water that I often have to resort to as a lube between the levers and tire bead.

About 15 years ago, I actually had to take side-cutter pliers to a steel-beaded tire to get it off of a similarly set up wheel. It ruined the tire and the customer wasn't happy but, after spending close to two hours fighting it and only making $5 for a 'Flat Repair', I didn't care. I was unhappy, too.
Now, if a customer asks my advice on this type of set-up, I always recommend tires with a kevlar or aramid bead. ANYTHING but Steel!

Have fun!

[Bill]

So the rim is a "Clincher Rim"?
The Sun ME14A data is found here : http://www.sun-ringle.com/product-vault/road-rims/me14a-welded-650c/
The Tire data is found here : http://www.panaracer.com/road.php#closer .
To add to the all of this there is the liner and a thicker tube? OUCH!!!!!!!!! The way I would do is combining both of the above ideas! Your gonna need two people, very flat and strong lever with longer mechanical handle leverage. As far as the lube... well something even slippier than the 50/50 dawn/water mix (sorry rob) like oil! No worries you can clean it off with the 50/50 stuff rob suggests . Messy? Yes. Pain in the @$$? Yes.

[nfmisso]

I finally got it off

took two screw drivers - the 1/8" wide one worked the best. And had to go all the way around the tire; 10° at a time, could not slide it at all. 1/8" screw driver to pry off, move tire lever close; index 10°, repeat. Then digging the tube out was a pain, even with no air in it, it is so thick that there is no free volume. Tried inflating the tube with the one bead completely free of the rim - I think it would have been rideable !!

I have actually had the tire/tube/liner on the rim for over 5K miles, never had a flat - on the front

On the rear I did not have a liner, and something BIG and sharp with thru the tire and tube -PFFT-PFFT, dropped to about 70 psi and held for the three miles to work Leaked down thru the day, pumped it back up to 70 psi, rode the two miles to the light rail, then the ½ mile home. The hole thru the tread is about a 1/8" diameter !!

This whole exercise is occurring due to the flat in the rear - do I spend $50- on a replacement 28-571; or do I convert to ISO 590 like I should have from the beginning (for the SR Sierra Sport). I decided to convert; and did so two weeks ago (pictures tomorrow). No I am salvaging the front hub for the 310, as the wheels I had previously built up for the 310 are on the SR. The 310 is getting a new Shimano 8 speed freehub too. Now I have the front hub liberated, tomorrow I plan on building the two ISO 590 wheels for it - Sun CR18 rims, 36 Wheelsmith SS14 spokes for each, Shimano hubs.

I am leaving the rear wheel (130mm OLD 7 speed Shimano freehub with 571 rim and tire) for another day. Hopefully it will be a might easier with no liner 5K miles for a set of wheels, a bit dirty but otherwise good as when built is pretty good.

Anyone want a couple of 36H ISO 571 M14A rims, one good Terry 28-571 tire, the rear one still as a whole wheel? I'll throw in the liners and the one good tube if you want. Very difficult to mount, next to impossible to remove; but impervious to screwdrivers You'll need your own front hub. Shot me an offer.

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(10-06-2012, 10:18 PM)Bill Wrote:  So the rim is a "Clincher Rim"?
The Sun ME14A data is found here : http://www.sun-ringle.com/product-vault/road-rims/me14a-welded-650c/
....

The rim is a M14A - the ME14A replaced it. It is narrow, and does not let go of the tire easily - I ran them at 125-130 psi.

For now on, I am not building any wheels with any rim narrower than a SUN CR18.

[Bill]

LMAO.... Nice way to take care of a stubborn tire . Isn't it grand how wheels last so long when built the old fashioned way, by hand! Gotta love it! Anyways congrats on the success of removing that little pain.

*BTW I think I will keep a low profile as Rob maybe saying a few curse words at me lol.

[RobAR]

I will start the bidding at $2.74 with postage included.