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Rear wheel locked up
#1
[attachment=3359]
[attachment=3360]

Hi,

To be honest, I don't know a lot about mountain bikes, but I bought one a while ago from a retailer and have done about 600 KM on it. The other day I was coming down a hill and the rear wheel locked up, and I came to a skidding halt. I've always though that there must be something missing from the rear hub on the cassette side, a seal or something, because I've just got a cavity showing, which doesn't seem right to me, but that is the way I bought it. I've got a couple of pictures can someone tell me is something missing??

Many thanks
  Reply
#2
The "cavity" on the right side is the tool fitting to remove the freewheel. To be specific, it looks to me like you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. FYI

Also looks like several parts are missing off the axle. Did you start taking it apart yourself?
A wheel "locking up" usually means a bad bearing. First step is probably to remove the freewheel and axle so you can inspect/reinstall the bearings correctly.

see this: http://bikeride.com/overhaul-wheel-bearings/

You would need a freewheel remover tool and probably a thin wrench ("cone wrench") to do this properly.
  Reply
#3
I totally agree with Dave. Now you said you got it from a retailer? Is it still under warranty? If so I would take it back making sure you point out that there maybe something missing. That is first look up the same model of bike and inspect the rear wheel. Now if you started to dissect it yourself you just may have to go with the second option as Dave said.
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
  Reply
#4
(07-30-2012, 08:24 AM)DaveM Wrote:  The "cavity" on the right side is the tool fitting to remove the freewheel. To be specific, it looks to me like you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. FYI

Also looks like several parts are missing off the axle. Did you start taking it apart yourself?
A wheel "locking up" usually means a bad bearing. First step is probably to remove the freewheel and axle so you can inspect/reinstall the bearings correctly.

see this: http://bikeride.com/overhaul-wheel-bearings/

You would need a freewheel remover tool and probably a thin wrench ("cone wrench") to do this properly.

Hi DaveM,

I thought a freewheel was a cassette... Smile I should ask the difference I guess? Smile
I must admit I did have a tinker. If I remove the nut on the brake disk side, there is a bearing in it's own holder, not loose bearings. After, it is possible to slide the axle out the other side. In the bottom of the cavity I can see ball bearings in their grease (loose), but I put the axle back to avoid loosing any ball bearings and to take the pictures. I think the top nut, in the top picture, actually goes on the other side and acts as the locking nut.
I'll get a freewheel remover tool and see what's going on, but I wondered what might be my options, can I get a new hub? and If i get a new hub should I get it already on a wheel or can I get one separately and put it on the wheel I've got? Also if I get a new freewheel should I get a new chain at the same time.

Thanks. Smile




If there are some parts missing, is a new hub
(07-30-2012, 09:05 AM)Bill Wrote:  I totally agree with Dave. Now you said you got it from a retailer? Is it still under warranty? If so I would take it back making sure you point out that there maybe something missing. That is first look up the same model of bike and inspect the rear wheel. Now if you started to dissect it yourself you just may have to go with the second option as Dave said.

(07-30-2012, 12:20 PM)spikespearman Wrote:  
(07-30-2012, 08:24 AM)DaveM Wrote:  The "cavity" on the right side is the tool fitting to remove the freewheel. To be specific, it looks to me like you have a freewheel, and not a cassette. FYI

Also looks like several parts are missing off the axle. Did you start taking it apart yourself?
A wheel "locking up" usually means a bad bearing. First step is probably to remove the freewheel and axle so you can inspect/reinstall the bearings correctly.

see this: http://bikeride.com/overhaul-wheel-bearings/

You would need a freewheel remover tool and probably a thin wrench ("cone wrench") to do this properly.

Hi DaveM,

I thought a freewheel was a cassette... Smile I should ask the difference I guess? Smile
I must admit I did have a tinker. If I remove the nut on the brake disk side, there is a bearing in it's own holder, not loose bearings. After, it is possible to slide the axle out the other side. In the bottom of the cavity I can see ball bearings in their grease (loose), but I put the axle back to avoid loosing any ball bearings and to take the pictures. I think the top nut, in the top picture, actually goes on the other side and acts as the locking nut.
I'll get a freewheel remover tool and see what's going on, but I wondered what might be my options, can I get a new hub? and If i get a new hub should I get it already on a wheel or can I get one separately and put it on the wheel I've got? Also if I get a new freewheel should I get a new chain at the same time.

Thanks. Smile




If there are some parts missing, is a new hub
(07-30-2012, 09:05 AM)Bill Wrote:  I totally agree with Dave. Now you said you got it from a retailer? Is it still under warranty? If so I would take it back making sure you point out that there maybe something missing. That is first look up the same model of bike and inspect the rear wheel. Now if you started to dissect it yourself you just may have to go with the second option as Dave said.

No bill the bike isn't under warranty anymore. It cost me about 200 pounds and was made in Germany. So not exactly top of the range in terms of cost! Smile
On the plus side (I think) it has dual suspension, dual disk brakes, Shimano gears...ect. I did look up the bike on the net but most of the stuff is in German, and my German is a bit dodgy, to say the least.. Smile
  Reply
#5
Freewheel or cassette? http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
From your picture, I think you have a freewheel, but can't be sure based on that photo.

Try to keep track of what parts came from what side and in what order. For the inexperienced, it can be tricky to get everything back in the right place otherwise.

I wouldn't assume you need a new hub yet. Open it up and inspect the bearing and races. As long as the bearing cups in the hub itself are OK, you don't need a new hub.

If you do need a new hub, probably cheaper to just buy a whole wheel. Getting a new hub laced into your existing rim would be more costly, though you'd probably end up with a stronger wheel.

It's generally a good idea to replace chain and freewheel/cassette at the same time unless the chain is very new.

(Any chance the wheel was just hitting the frame/brakes, etc? Usually for the bearings to "lock up" a wheel, there would be a blown apart bearing at least. But maybe you weren't able to see well enough yet.)
  Reply
#6
(07-30-2012, 05:06 PM)DaveM Wrote:  Freewheel or cassette? http://sheldonbrown.com/free-k7.html
From your picture, I think you have a freewheel, but can't be sure based on that photo.

Try to keep track of what parts came from what side and in what order. For the inexperienced, it can be tricky to get everything back in the right place otherwise.

I wouldn't assume you need a new hub yet. Open it up and inspect the bearing and races. As long as the bearing cups in the hub itself are OK, you don't need a new hub.

If you do need a new hub, probably cheaper to just buy a whole wheel. Getting a new hub laced into your existing rim would be more costly, though you'd probably end up with a stronger wheel.

It's generally a good idea to replace chain and freewheel/cassette at the same time unless the chain is very new.

(Any chance the wheel was just hitting the frame/brakes, etc? Usually for the bearings to "lock up" a wheel, there would be a blown apart bearing at least. But maybe you weren't able to see well enough yet.)

Hi DaveM,

Thanks, I see the difference now between a freewheel and a cassette now. You are right it is a freewheel, I can see the spline groves for the removal tool which I ordered today. It wasn't the brakes, or the wheel hitting the frame. I had that problem of the wheel rubbing against the frame before, but I learned how to adjust the nut and locking nut to reduce wheel play. I did notice the axle is a bit bent (solid one) so I will will probably need a new one of those.

Anyway thanks for all your help! Smile
  Reply
#7
What is the name and model of the bike out of curiosity ?
Good maintenance to your Bike, can make it like the wheels are, true and smooth!
  Reply
#8
(07-30-2012, 10:52 PM)Bill Wrote:  What is the name and model of the bike out of curiosity ?

HI Bill,

The MTB is a Crosswind 7.7
  Reply
#9
Hmmm. interesting a freewheel with disc brake and solid axle. Boy what mish mash. I looked the model up and it seems to be e euro version of walmart roadmaster.

Does the wheel spin off the bike? It looks like the gear side is missing a lock nut . Check carefully before taking apart.

Take photos as you disassemble, bend axle not good. Ye cheaper to buy wheel than build. However provision for disc brake mounting needed.
Never Give Up!!!
  Reply
#10
Well, the bent axle should be no surprise: It is a known issue with 7 speed freewheels as the axle is unsupported for quite a distance. If you get a new wheel: go for a freehub. And it is good practice to change chain and sprockets (cassette or freewheel) at the same time (well, I usually replace the chain twice before replacing the cassette, but you get the idea). You can try asking the local bike shops for used rear wheels, they might have one for not much money (which likely will have to be trued and tensioned) and many are happy to get some of the old stuff out of their way. My last (used) rear wheel cost 20 EUR (~16 USD).
  Reply
#11
(07-31-2012, 07:36 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Hmmm. interesting a freewheel with disc brake and solid axle. Boy what mish mash. I looked the model up and it seems to be e euro version of walmart roadmaster.

Does the wheel spin off the bike? It looks like the gear side is missing a lock nut . Check carefully before taking apart.

Take photos as you disassemble, bend axle not good. Ye cheaper to buy wheel than build. However provision for disc brake mounting needed.

I can see the spline pattern for the freewheel removal and have ordered a tool and a cromo axle kit. This should be a better quality of axle. Once I've fixed it, I'll keep an eye out for replacing the the whole wheel, or maybe the whole bike.....ha ha.... Smile ....once I get a bit more wear out of this one though that is.
  Reply
#12
(08-02-2012, 08:28 AM)spikespearman Wrote:  
(07-31-2012, 07:36 PM)GeorgeET Wrote:  Hmmm. interesting a freewheel with disc brake and solid axle. Boy what mish mash. I looked the model up and it seems to be e euro version of walmart roadmaster.

Does the wheel spin off the bike? It looks like the gear side is missing a lock nut . Check carefully before taking apart.

Take photos as you disassemble, bend axle not good. Ye cheaper to buy wheel than build. However provision for disc brake mounting needed.

I can see the spline pattern for the freewheel removal and have ordered a tool and a cromo axle kit. This should be a better quality of axle. Once I've fixed it, I'll keep an eye out for replacing the the whole wheel, or maybe the whole bike.....ha ha.... Smile ....once I get a bit more wear out of this one though that is.

My injured bike below: I don't think it is a Roadmaster because it has dual suspension and dual disk brakes...take a look :
[attachment=3371]
  Reply


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