The tire size will be written directly on the side of the tires. 99% sure you have 27" x 1 1/4. But double check before you buy anything. To count speeds, count the number of gears in the back and multiply by number in the front. It looks like you have a 10 speed, but hard to see in the photo.
On brake pads, what everyone seems to agree is best is Kool Stop Salmons. There's a couple versions depending on how they mount to your brakes. I think the style you need are the "continental" ones. Google it and you'll find it. Just don't buy whatever no-name pads your local bike shop offers for $2 a piece.
On bar tape, I like basic "cork" tape. Any bike shop should have something for $5-$10. You don't need the fancy stuff. It's got a little padding, will keep your hands dry if your not wearing gloves, and comes in every color. Just don't get white as it will pick up dirt and grime very quick and become "grey".
On tires, there's a lot to choose from. For durability, I really like Schwalbe Marathons, Continental Gatorskins, and Specialized Armadillos. However, none of these are cheap. $30 - $50 each. There are a lot of others out there and most bike shops will have something for $15 - $30. You want something with a kevlar belt. Maybe some of the other commenters here will post their recommendations.
However, if the tires on the bike now are in good shape (no cracks in the sidewalls, plenty of tread left), there is another option. You can get tubes called "thorn resistant tubes" for $5 - $10 each. Basically just a tube with much thicker rubber. They're a bit heavy, but on this bike you won't really notice and they are a lot more durable than a regular tube. Option C is something called "tire liners" (Mr. Tuffy is the biggest brand). These are tough strips that go inside your tire on top of the tube and give you the equivalent of a belted tire. I don't recommend them for super high pressure racing tires, but that's not what you're doing anyway. One nice thing is that these don't wear out, so you can move them from one tire to another as you wear out tires. I probably prefer the tire liners over the thick tubes, but they're a little trickier to install.
On saddles, the newer gender specific saddles should be an improvement. But be warned that saddles are very personal. What one person says is great will be very uncomfortable to someone else, and higher price does not necessarily mean more comfortable. The best thing is if you have a shop that happens to have a few installed on bikes and will let you ride around the block to try it out. Unfortunately, there's no science to figuring what fits you best, you've just got to try some. Also note that if you haven't ridden in a long time, your butt's not going to like any saddle at first. It will get a lot more comfortable as your body gets used to it. That said, if the seat is still hurting after a week or two of regular rides, try something else. If should feel comfortable pretty quick or it probably doesn't fit you well.
Good luck
Hi all, Dave, you hit about all nails on the head with your primo advice. One thing about saddles you will remember is the small cut out for the perennial nerves on ladies saddles. I fitted a second hand Brookes ladies saddle and with careful adjustment and a dose of Brookes saddle treatment, it was a great saddle and she puts miles on it. But as you said , it is a personal thing, but don't get taken in by a salesman! There are some great online advice sites for saddles and choice. I hope you enjoy your bike and get that " bond ".
Hello again and thank you very much Dave for your advice...thank you Ghost also for your input. I have already purchased a new Saddle...and it is way better. I am happy with it for now. Haven't been to a long ride yet to really test it....but I am planning on doing so in a few days to see how it goes . I am also replacing the handlebar tape , tires (just went to a bike shop and got regulars) ...I am hoping to get new pedals(these kind of hurt a little)and also brake pads by next weekend ....hopefully!.
There is a moderate/ leisurely (rookie) event coming up next weekend I hope I can make it... Any suggestions or should I practice some more before participating on any of these events even if they are just for fun ?...
I will post new pics as soon as I make some significant progress
Thank you again.
Is the frame structurally intact? I would overhaul all bearings including bottom bracket and head and replace as needed. I would remove all components and deep clean. Probably take a serious look at cables and housings with an eye to replacement. Next, I would check wheels for true. I would look for bent spokes. All in all, in other words, the most basic of the mechanical fundamentals. Does the bike deserve anything less?
Then I would worry about pedals, tires, saddle and such. And how do I intend to actually use the bike beyond project?...there is always that.
I like the red Miyata frame you got...do u have that on running or still working on it? U have some nice rides there.. Congrats!
And yes...I like those pedals because of the double side ...I think I am going with the second set, they are heavier but they look more comfy....and later on I may try the clipless side..
I am getting back into biking after a long time.. so it is going to take me a little to be able to go long distances or keep a consistent medium to fast pace ...but I am hoping by next summer be able to make at least 15-20MPH or more if possible... right now I think I am not able to make even 5MPH... lol
Hi Tim...thank you very much for your advice.. Yes the bike is in very very good shape no bents spokes it changes gears smoothly and all....and no noises..... as a matter of fact I dropped her off yesterday at my local bike shop across the street for them to look at it and double check.....change the tires and let me know whats the most important things she needs. As soon as the guy saw her he made the comment that he could see that she havent been ridden much.
The usual looking-at-this-through-the-internet caveats apply:
I think there is or was fit problem here, specifically hyper extension on the top: the bars appear to have been changed to short-reach compacts, the saddle is nosed down. That's okay and standard mitigation, but the real way to test the fit as it is is to spend time on the bike, not miles per se. You should know whether there is a fit problem within an hour, easily as your fingers will get numb and back of your neck will feel pinched. If it's not fitting, you'll get the "I don't like this" feeling soon. Nitto Dove or Albatross type bars are possibilities and even trekking or mustache bars, depending in where the brake levers are put. Again, I don't know how the bike is to be used.
Oh yeah, there are better, slightly more modern brake systems out there. That I'm sure of.
So I went to a rail trail for a 8 mile ride yesterday with my son more than likely for recreation.. even though it was at a very easy pace with some sprints in between at the end my right shoulder was bothering me. I went this morning as well by myself and did about 5 miles at an average 13MPH steady pedaling with some sprints in between as well reaching a speed of 17MPH according to the speedometer... it was a bit windy so I think I did well... I was impress with myself after so many years of not doing this..
The temperature was perfect... no discomfort with the saddle yet... but I will raise it a little for better leg extension. My right shoulder still bothers a little and my lower back its kind of sore but I think it will go away after getting use to riding. I was really bothered alot with the resting position. my palms were hurting after a few minutes of placing the hands on the bar. Should I wear gloves with some padding or integrate some aerobars?...
Wear cycling gloves, apart from making your hands more comfortable and having a bit more padding, it will protect your hands from a fall. Check your handlebar height and I notice you have a short stem on your bars. Getting used to cycling takes time, but the advice about padded cycling shorts stands true. I never cycle without them. Best of luck.