02-21-2014, 11:51 AM
Just saw this thread for the first time and I have several comments.
First, the problems with the OP's braking should be obvious, and are mostly fixable.
1. The rear brake housing at the brake lever is too short, and the housing is kinked at the ferrule. That introduces friction which robs braking efficiency.
2. The front housing is routed in front of the handlebars, forcing a bend at the hanger, and the housing is a bit too long - again introducing friction/inefficiency.
3. There is absolutely no sign of lubrication at the brake pivots - the nylon bushings are greyish in color - they would be darker if any lubrication had been applied.
4. The brake pads are cheap ones, nowhere near the quality of the original Weinmann pads.
5. The bike is old enough that it is likely to have unlined housing (no inner liner) meaning more friction and metal to metal contact. Unlined brake housing MUST be greased when the cable is inserted to avoid friction and especially rust. Doubtful there is lube of any type in the housing.
As for "old brakes not working so well" the Weinman centerpulls were some of the best brakes for the time, and are not functionally that different from modern dual pivot brakes. I used them on a bike with 35 lbs of gear on a 10,000 mile tour with no problems.
As to fixing the problem I'll cover the general fix first and then what I would recommend for the OP.
For this type of situation all cable/housing should be replaced, including using lined housing properly sized. The pads should be replaced with good quality ones, Kool Stop salmon pads generally being recognized as the best. One generally will have to release the brake cable to back off the arms enough to fit a new pad, but turning the adjustment barrel on the hanger all the way down could be sufficient in this case. Pivots on both the brake levers and calipers should be lubricated with a heavier lube, due to riding and outside storage in winter.
The extension (suicide) levers are indeed no good for stopping quickly - in fact it is dangerous to depend on them, as one can't decide in an emergency to shift to the other ones. They also make it impossible to use the levers from the hoods, which is where most riders brake. They should either be removed and the pivots sawed off and sanded smooth so the OP can use the hoods or bars and levers replaced.
The aero levers plus cross levers may be an option, though cross levers still will not offer full braking power, and steering/control is more difficult in that hand position. They are really intended for low speed maneuvering. But the OP has steel bars, which have a 22.2 grip (brake lever) diameter, so he would need to replace bars as well, being careful to match the diameter of the stem clamp. That is going to take the total $ up, especially if he does not do the work himself.
The final point is that the OP needs to determine what else the bike may need, in order to determine if it is wise to invest that much in just the brakes. The frame has been in a front-end collision, and judging by seat height may be a bit on the large side for the rider. The lack of maintenance and lubrication may indicate other problems in the near future which will take more money and time to resolve. It may be better to look for a replacement bike in good condition.
Bottom line:
Least expensive fix: Replace cables and housing and pads, remove extension levers, saw off pivot extensions, and brake from the top of the hoods.
Ideal fix with same bike - Aero and cross levers, alloy bars, new cables, housing and pads.
If there are other problems with bike (worn chain, gritty bearings, etc.) replace the bike.
First, the problems with the OP's braking should be obvious, and are mostly fixable.
1. The rear brake housing at the brake lever is too short, and the housing is kinked at the ferrule. That introduces friction which robs braking efficiency.
2. The front housing is routed in front of the handlebars, forcing a bend at the hanger, and the housing is a bit too long - again introducing friction/inefficiency.
3. There is absolutely no sign of lubrication at the brake pivots - the nylon bushings are greyish in color - they would be darker if any lubrication had been applied.
4. The brake pads are cheap ones, nowhere near the quality of the original Weinmann pads.
5. The bike is old enough that it is likely to have unlined housing (no inner liner) meaning more friction and metal to metal contact. Unlined brake housing MUST be greased when the cable is inserted to avoid friction and especially rust. Doubtful there is lube of any type in the housing.
As for "old brakes not working so well" the Weinman centerpulls were some of the best brakes for the time, and are not functionally that different from modern dual pivot brakes. I used them on a bike with 35 lbs of gear on a 10,000 mile tour with no problems.
As to fixing the problem I'll cover the general fix first and then what I would recommend for the OP.
For this type of situation all cable/housing should be replaced, including using lined housing properly sized. The pads should be replaced with good quality ones, Kool Stop salmon pads generally being recognized as the best. One generally will have to release the brake cable to back off the arms enough to fit a new pad, but turning the adjustment barrel on the hanger all the way down could be sufficient in this case. Pivots on both the brake levers and calipers should be lubricated with a heavier lube, due to riding and outside storage in winter.
The extension (suicide) levers are indeed no good for stopping quickly - in fact it is dangerous to depend on them, as one can't decide in an emergency to shift to the other ones. They also make it impossible to use the levers from the hoods, which is where most riders brake. They should either be removed and the pivots sawed off and sanded smooth so the OP can use the hoods or bars and levers replaced.
The aero levers plus cross levers may be an option, though cross levers still will not offer full braking power, and steering/control is more difficult in that hand position. They are really intended for low speed maneuvering. But the OP has steel bars, which have a 22.2 grip (brake lever) diameter, so he would need to replace bars as well, being careful to match the diameter of the stem clamp. That is going to take the total $ up, especially if he does not do the work himself.
The final point is that the OP needs to determine what else the bike may need, in order to determine if it is wise to invest that much in just the brakes. The frame has been in a front-end collision, and judging by seat height may be a bit on the large side for the rider. The lack of maintenance and lubrication may indicate other problems in the near future which will take more money and time to resolve. It may be better to look for a replacement bike in good condition.
Bottom line:
Least expensive fix: Replace cables and housing and pads, remove extension levers, saw off pivot extensions, and brake from the top of the hoods.
Ideal fix with same bike - Aero and cross levers, alloy bars, new cables, housing and pads.
If there are other problems with bike (worn chain, gritty bearings, etc.) replace the bike.
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