Hello from new member

[Wilbert]

[attachment=4394][attachment=4395][attachment=4396]Just joined the forum and wanted to say hello and thank you as I have gotten quite a bit of useful information already from reading other posts. It started this summer when I purchased a bike off CL for $10 and attempted a restore, now I am fully obsessed. My wife thinks I'm nuts as I get up at the crack of dawn on weekends to be the first one at the yard sale in search of that forgotten old relic in the barn. My plan is to learn as much as I can on old beaters and work my way up to building something really nice when I hone my skills. So I anticipate visiting here often to gain insight. Have included a few pics of that $10 mongoose before and after. My next project is the old Tyler I picked up, don't know too much about it other than it was made in Poland, I don't think it has much value but it will give me some more practice without having to worry about screwing up! Again, hello to all.

Mike

[Painkiller]

Welcome aboard Mike ! Fate must have brought you here, thats just how it goes. Glad you found a fun hobby. Wifes can say they have a headache, we can say " I have to polish and grease something" maybe next time.

[nfmisso]

Welcome aboard Mike; I really like your Dynametric the Tyler is not my style.

[Wilbert]

(08-25-2013, 05:09 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  Welcome aboard Mike; I really like your Dynametric the Tyler is not my style.

Thanks. I'm finding the Tyler is not my style as well. I think I need to start being more selective as to what I drag home!

[Painkiller]

not familiar with the blue bicycle, but it looks like the seat tube is bent where the top tube connects. clean and inspect for fissures in the paint for tell tale signs of damage. If so put your money somewhere else.

[bikemanfred]

Welcome to the forum Wlbert. Like what you did to the Mongoose

[Wilbert]

(08-25-2013, 06:48 PM)painkiller Wrote:  not familiar with the blue bicycle, but it looks like the seat tube is bent where the top tube connects. clean and inspect for fissures in the paint for tell tale signs of damage. If so put your money somewhere else.

Yes its bent. Putting the whole thing on the scrap heap and moving on!

[1FJEF]

(08-25-2013, 10:55 PM)Wilbert Wrote:  

(08-25-2013, 06:48 PM)painkiller Wrote:  not familiar with the blue bicycle, but it looks like the seat tube is bent where the top tube connects. clean and inspect for fissures in the paint for tell tale signs of damage. If so put your money somewhere else.

Yes its bent. Putting the whole thing on the scrap heap and moving on!

I would strip every single part from the frame, including headset & forks & save them. Actually, the bike is still good to learn on.

[nfmisso]

(08-25-2013, 06:03 PM)Wilbert Wrote:  ....... I think I need to start being more selective as to what I drag home!

May I suggest cro-mo (Chrome-Molybdenum alloy steel) and Reynolds 531 frames only.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/41xx_steel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynolds_531

[Painkiller]

(08-26-2013, 07:01 PM)nfmisso Wrote:  

(08-25-2013, 06:03 PM)Wilbert Wrote:  ....... I think I need to start being more selective as to what I drag home!

May I suggest cro-mo (Chrome-Molybdenum alloy steel) and Reynolds 531 frames only.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/41xx_steel
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reynolds_531

I do not have a problem with the reynolds 453 either. Most any Reynolds tubing is pretty good. The 453 is a Iron/ Manganese/Titanium alloy that is on my vintage Gitane Defi and it comes in under 24lbs

---

here is most of the reynolds decals/tubing meanings

[nfmisso]

And 953 is currently the top of the line
http://reynoldstechnology.biz/our_materials_953.php

520 is fairly standard Cr-Mo.

For more info:
http://reynoldstechnology.biz/assets/pdf/rtl_steel_alloys_extract.pdf

[Wilbert]

(08-27-2013, 12:10 AM)nfmisso Wrote:  And 953 is currently the top of the line
http://reynoldstechnology.biz/our_materials_953.php

520 is fairly standard Cr-Mo.

For more info:
http://reynoldstechnology.biz/assets/pdf/rtl_steel_alloys_extract.pdf

Hopefully I did ok on the Mongoose, the sticker on that said "Tange Cro-Moly"

I am going to strip the Tyler and was wondering about the 3 speed hub, it appears in decent shape and says "Shimano 3S" would this be worth holding onto? and what is the correct way to remove the hub? I have never built a wheel I'm assuming my dremel would make easy work of the spokes but if I was ever concerned with saving the spokes and rim what is the best way to remove the hub?

[nfmisso]

(08-27-2013, 12:32 PM)Wilbert Wrote:  Hopefully I did ok on the Mongoose, the sticker on that said "Tange Cro-Moly"

I am going to strip the Tyler and was wondering about the 3 speed hub, it appears in decent shape and says "Shimano 3S" would this be worth holding onto? and what is the correct way to remove the hub? I have never built a wheel I'm assuming my dremel would make easy work of the spokes but if I was ever concerned with saving the spokes and rim what is the best way to remove the hub?

Tange is a competitor to Reynolds; and makes great bike tubing. Two of my bikes have Tange tubing.

Wheel dis-assembly: after you remove the tire and tube, and rim strip/tape; you will see the back side of the spoke nipples. Usually you can unscrew the nipples from the back side with a flat bladed screw driver with a notch in the middle. A drop of penetrating oil on each nipple - spoke interface and nipple - rim interface the night before helps.

Generally, unless the spoke and nipples are Wheelsmith (worth salvaging and re-use), I cut the spokes with my bolt cutters.

You didn't ask, there are several different sizes of spoke nipples (each requiring its own wrench), which is why those of us who build wheels stick with one brand of spoke and nipple; Wheelsmith in my case.

[cradom]

Thanks for the Reynolds chart Painkiller! One more for my collection.

[Painkiller]

Anytime Sir. you never know when you have to recreate a decal. Some Photoshop and Illustrator knowledge can be useful from time to time, thats for sure.